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Sorry to hear about this problem! could be a bad battery/trans shifter etc. Did you check the cables/terminals? No corrosion, tightly fastened, etc.? Try moving the shifter to N (neutral) and then starting. Does your insurance have tow/rental coverage? You can also talk with the dealer see if they will do that for you for free, seeing as how new your Edge is. They will need to run a thorough diagnostic anyway, so that will take time. Do you have the Ford extended warranty or some other ...

Great! Post some pics when you get 'em on

I looked over pics of the degas bottle cap and it does say 110 KPa or 16 psi on mine as well. I don't think you need to worry about that minor difference. Testing it warm, say around 70F but definitely at/above 32F is best, does your tester give you a chart? Specs are usually laid out at a specific testing temperature. Specific gravity is actually what is being tested for, and it tells you the % of coolant in the solution. It does NOT tell you anything about any other properties such as rust/corrosion inhibition. You might be able to guess at it with a voltmeter (electrolysis; readings also sensitive to temperature) and pH strips. http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/water-temperature-specific-gravity-d_1179.html http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/ethylene-glycol-d_146.html As to how pressure affects the coolant solution/any aqueous solution: http://www.animations.physics.unsw.edu.au/jw/freezing-point-depression-boiling-point-elevation.htm Fun facts on the different coolant formulations: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ffpe8aVvb2c

Wanting to add OEM remote start to your 2011+ Edge? candurin gets you all set up: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/17035-adding-oem-remote-start-kits-parts-explained-detailed-2011/

Welcome to the community, and congrats on the '14 Edge! Glad you could keep it in the Ford family What trim level, AWD, color? Put up some pics of your rides when you can ... You've probably already seen this thread: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/17035-adding-oem-remote-start-kits-parts-explained-detailed-2011/

What wheels are you getting? Be careful with wheel width, ideally same as OEM. You could go wider, but that would change tire dynamics.

When you get pinched, you get pinched. Parts ...

Install the wheel bearing and new wheel hub bolts. - Tighten to 133 Nm (98 lb-ft). Position the brake caliper and anchor plate assembly and install the 2 bolts. To install, tighten to 55 Nm (41 lb-ft). Install the brake disc. AWD vehicles Using a suitable installation tool, install the halfshaft into the wheel bearing and wheel hub. Install the halfshaft hub nut. Tighten to 275 Nm (203 lb-ft).

Sticking with OEM tire size for the 20's is the best way to go. Keep in mind we are assuming OEM-sized 20s as well. If you have different wheel width, the actual tire size would change. http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/tirecalc.php 245/60-18 is original 18" tire size 245/50-20 is original 20" tire size Compare these two sizes here: http://www.sizemytires.com/calculators/compare

Gobs and gobs of coolantfree luck!

Keep the overall height of the wheel/tire the same to avoid any issues. Even more important if you have AWD. A different height can be accommodated via an update to the PCM, either at the dealer or in a tune if your vehicle is tuned.

Very useful: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/8329-07-sel-plus-awd-rear-bearinghub-replacement/

Ummmm ... Good luck?

Well, you could: a) remove the air filter b] remove the mufflers c) add a remote controlled cutout after the cats and before the mufflers d) get a highflow catback exhaust system with an Xpipe instead of the resonator

Under warranty, I hope?

As far as numbers/statistics go, you can visit sites like Http://www.carcomplaints.com http://www.truedelta.com/car-reliability http://repairpal.com/ford/edge

Thanks for the clarification

Still can't believe you pulled it off, I bet!

Specific link: http://support.ford.com/sync-technology/identify-your-sync-version More general links: http://support.ford.com/ https://owner.ford.com/servlet/ContentServer?pagename=Owner/Page/OwnerVideoPage

I don't believe the Edge has any issues, given the info you have provided. Now, it is very likely your F150 does not have the sophisticated ABS/traction control setup of the Edge. Does it have 4WD/traction control? Read more on traction in the snow here: http://www.vnutz.com/articles/4WD_Vs_AWD_And_The_Fallacy_Of_Snow_Traction Tire tread depth is also important for good traction in wintertime: http://www.tirerack.com/winter/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=163 http://www.tirerack.com/winter/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=122&currentpage=168

Be a stickler for maintenance. If you do a lot of stop and go, don't follow the "Normal" schedule, follow the "Severe Duty" schedule. In addition, no matter what the mfr says, ALL fluids need to be changed over time, not just oil, but also transmission, coolant, brake, and the PTU/RDU (if you have AWD).

I think by "paper difference" KWS meant that all you have to do is put premium fuel instead of standard in the Edge to reach the stated numbers for the MKX.

You have the 22" wheels, right? You like the tread pattern on the Scorpions? Did you go with a different than OEM sized tire?

Did it perform OK in the stopping department otherwise? Most likely the combination of ABS and traction control (though it could be an incorrectly seated pad/rotor combo), as the Edge shifts power to the wheel with the most traction. A member with an MKX recently also had a similar experience, the service shop found no cause for alarm. I would stay alert for repeat incidents, especially when the road is fine & there is no reason for ABS to engage.

Almost a 10% difference, nice I am sure a rigorous maintenance schedule for the 2011 will reap similar benefits to the 2008. BTW, the Cinnamon Metallic looks really sharp, we have one of 'em in our neighborhood!