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How about putting some tank treads on, mac?

If you have put 100 miles or so on the Edge, the PCM should have re-learned by now. I'd pull codes first (Advance Auto/Autozone/etc), and then even if nothing is stored, take it back to the service shop.E EDIT: It's a faint possibility but the oil they put in may not be the right type and/or weight. At least one instance on this forum that I know of where it caused a serious drop in mpg. So another oil change just might be the ticket for you as well. Even dealers don't necessarily put in Motorcraft 5W20 SynBlend or whatever is specified for your Edge.

How many miles on your Edge? Any loss in power? If they unhooked the battery, the PCM has to go through a re-learn process. They may have run the engine in place, using up fuel without adding miles. Hopefully they didn't make a rookie mistake like having the chain a tooth or two off, that would make it noticeably rough. Also, do you reset your mpg counter every fillup or is it a continuous measure?

Tires look in pretty good shape overall, so I wouldn't worry about them for a year or two. Just don't forget about them I would dress them regularly though with water-based product to keep 'em looking good. http://blog.tirerack.com/blog/codys-corner/just-say-no-to-tire-cracking And don't get into any deep snow drifts, that's one thing to definitely avoid if tread depth is under say 6/32" or so.

Typically they will not check closely as part of routine maintenance, and even then there is a threshhold under which they will say "normal wear & tear, no concern". I would have steering AND alignment checked next time you go in for service.

Now that the filter is being moved topside, say byebye to that problem child ...

Oooops, new tech leaked??? Probably 5.9 km

If you post some good-sized pics of your tires (sidewalls/tread), we can know better if these tires are in need of replacing right now. From your description, it sounds like the Edge either has a lot of short distance driving or it sits a lot? If it sits a lot (multiple days without being driven), that can cause tires to go out of round. If you have had them regularly rotated, that will keep them in shape also.

Electrical issues do seem to crop up a lot more on the 2011+. It could be parts, or grounding, or control logic ... Must be SOMEONE at Ford that has sat down and tried to figure this all out. The one thing we did with older Fords was to check, clean and tighten the ground connections.

From reading around the net, using the rear brakes first/more was a conscious design decision to prevent nosedive in hard braking/emergency situations. People who drive in reverse and brake like cops/stuntpeople are outta luck http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/13292-how-long-should-brake-pads-last/?do=findComment&comment=103656

As noted by a member on another forum: http://slickdeals.net/f/7701409-5qt-mobil-1-full-synthetic-motor-oil-from-15-after-12-rebate-in-walmart-stores Try WalMart for a good price before rebate, if you need a filter to go with, try Advance Auto, they have a $5 rebate on oil + filter combo. Mobil OfferForm.pdf

Here's a copy of the ESP for reference: http://www.factoryplans.com/assets/cms/files/brochure_FordESPPlanOptions.pdf

Sure looks like it from the pics on EBay. Benny at LevittownFordSuperCenter would know for sure, though.

Totally agree & empathize, Lisa. A] If you get the work done, save the receipts for a future recall/reimbursement, B] do the replacement yourself using the HOW TO's on this forum, or C] Spray the latch/electronics liberally with electronics cleaner/unlock-lock cycle a few times.

Look forward to your annotations I don't think you should have to replace the drain plug though unless someone air wrenched it on at the last one. But, never hurts to have an extra on hand, or put a new gasket on!

Will have the '08 back by then?

Hey, don't blame me!!!

Good time to replace!

They love that Orange Crush so much they wanna see it perfect!

Keep her supplied with good air!

Some handling as well as you can run skinnier sidewalled tires, plus the ability to eat up larger-sized potholes

Should be pretty straightforward for a mechanic to diagnose those 3 elements. Doing a visual inspection for things like carbon tracking, cracked boots, etc. will diagnose the coil. Resistance tests will diagnose fuel injector firing. Checking plug gap will tell you if the gap is too wide for the PCM/ignition system to compensate for. These are just the initial checkpoints.

Interesting that the fault/lean code/misfire has moved over to cylinder 4 (radiator side bank, leftmost/furthest from battery). How much fuel injection cleaner/hom many tanks has it been since last report? Wat is the odometer reading on the Edge? It is also a possibility that the coils are starting to go, which eventually winds up frying the PCM or vice versa. This is a more frequent occurrence with the Edge than failed injectors (7T4Z-9F593-A / CM-5132) or failed spark plugs. Fuel Injector related parts: http://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts-list/2007-ford-edge/fuel-injectors-and-pipes.html Ignition Coil related parts: http://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts-list/2007-ford-edge/ignition-coil-and-wires-spark-plugs.html tsb13-04-17 2007-08 Edge MIL ON WITH DTCS - P0351, P0352, P0353, P0354, P0355, AND-OR P0356 - BUILT ON OR BEFORE 3-1-2008.pdf

Keep a close oil on the engine oil, when it starts looking dirty, change it. Don't want all the filth circulating in the engine unnecessarily. http://seafoamsales.com/sea-foam-change-oil/ http://seafoamsales.com/using-in-crankcase-oil/ And if the plugs are anywhere near end of life, they should be changed out as well.

Hope you feel better soon! I think you were referring to the driveshaft support bearing? That's a possibility. Also possible, low trans fluid or PTU fluid. I'd check those first. Don't want the PTU to go bellyup for lack of fluid or "bad" fluid.