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I saw perforated seats in a Contour SVT long time ago, but no heated/cooled option. Beautiful in Midnight Blue.

On my not-so-smart key, there is a slot at one end at the top where you can put in a flat blade screwdriver or a small coin and twist. On other IKTs/IA, I have seen people pull out the actual/backup key to use the slot thus created for same procedure as above. From the OM: pg 130 or so in the 2011 To replace the battery: Integrated keyhead transmitter (IKT) 1. Twist a thin coin in the slot near the key ring to remove the battery cover (1). Note: Do not wipe off any grease on the battery terminals on the back surface of the circuit board. 2. Carefully peel up the rubber gasket (2) from the transmitter if it does not come off with battery cover. 3. Remove the old battery (3). Note: Please refer to local regulations when disposing of transmitter batteries. 4. Insert the new battery. Refer to the instructions inside the IKT for the correct orientation of the battery. Press the battery down to ensure that the battery is fully seated in the battery housing cavity. 5. Snap the battery cover back onto the key. Intelligent access key (IA key) 1. Remove the backup key from the transmitter, then twist a thin coin in the slot hidden behind the backup key slot to remove the battery cover. Note: Do not wipe off any grease on the battery terminals or on the back surface of the circuit board. 2. Remove the old battery. Note: Please refer to local regulations when disposing of transmitter batteries. 3. Insert the new battery. Refer to the instructions inside the IA key for the correct orientation of the battery. Press the battery down to ensure that the battery is fully seated in the battery housing cavity. 4. Snap the battery cover back onto the transmitter and install the backup key. Note: Replacement of the battery will not cause the IKT or IA key to become de-programmed from your vehicle. They should operate normally after battery replacement.

IMHO, yes I think so. I don't know how far you will have to go down this road to get assistance, but if you have already tried National Customer Service, and not been satisfied, you will have to seek legal counsel. I am not sure what used/rebuilt/remfrd transmissions go for, that could be another option to having a brand new one put in.

Congrats on the Edge, may it bring miles of smiles! Now, down to business. Where are the pics???

That's a pretty late build! You might qualify for a PCM/ignition coil replacement under the emissions warranty, I'd definitely push for it. PM Tricia/Meagan (FordService on this site) to see what they can do for you. Going to another dealership may be another option, as they may be more responsive to your needs, but work with FordService first. You do need 5 posts on this forum to PM, so you can use the Test Forum to generate the addn'l posts. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/11866-test/page-5

Ok, so the infamous PTU seal leak occurred was repaired in 11/2012 as well? So this happened with the new PTU. But no direct connection that I know of with transmission failure. It IS possible that the leak could have been due to excessive pressure inside the transmission (not PTU) and caused seal failure, but that is pure speculation on my part. The major thing to me is still the P2072 code noted on 11/2012 visit, and nothing done to address it.

So they did replace the PTU once, in 12/2009. And in less than 1.5 years, you started having issues with the transmission (PTU seems ok). Which seal did they replace in 11/2012? P2702 - Transmission Friction Element "C" Apply Time Range/Performance Seems to be a generic code, for 6-speed transmissions, from what I can make out (P2701-6). To me, that means that the clutch/band material for that gear is wearing out, and action should have been taken at that time (since they had duplicated the concern. Instead they took the risk the trans would fail by asking you to come back when "concern can be more readily duplicated". I don't know why they went that route. From the FSM: P2702 Intermediate clutch system faults (includes clutch, valve body and non-electrical SSC faults) Intermediate clutch failed on. Intermediate clutch failed on, could be due to: Intermediate clutch VFS (SSC) non-electrical failed stuck on (pressure). Intermediate clutch stuck on due to mechanical failure. Intermediate clutch regulator valve stuck in the spring compressed position. P0761, P2702 Customer may notice neutral conditions or flares on shifts to 2nd or 6th as the test is determining intermediate clutch is failed off. Once a code is stored, all gears with intermediate clutch on are disabled (2nd and 6th gears) leaving 1st gear without engine braking, 1st gear with engine braking, 3rd, 4th and 5th gears. Customer might notice erratic shifting, neutral conditions, flares, higher engine speeds on highway (due to 6th gear being disabled). Will turn on wrench lamp. P0762, P2702 Customer may notice a vehicle deceleration on a shift into 3rd or 5th gears (intermediate clutch failing to release will cause a tie-up in 3rd or 5th gears). Customer might notice erratic shifting or being stuck in 6th gear while the test is confirming C26 is failed on. After a code is stored 1st gear with engine braking, 1st gear without engine braking, 3rd, 4th and 5th gears are disabled. Customer might notice hanging in 2nd gear on acceleration since 2nd gear — 6th gear upshifts only occur at closed pedal (due to energy limitations of overdrive clutch), harsh reverse engagements (since low/reverse clutch is not on in 2nd gear). Will turn on wrench lamp. Refer to Diagnosis By Symptom in this section.

Hope they gave you a 2 year warranty along with the price tag. Good luck!

Do the MKS seats have inserts (microsuede) like the SHO?

So memory was not lost? You may need to change the battery in the keyfob, but it seems more likely the adjustment mechanism has an intermittent short, or the motor is on its' way out. I don't know if the system sets any codes retrievable by an ordinary OBD scan tool.

PTU fluid change can absolutely be done with the PTU in place. So can installing the drain plug, but of course, the advice there would be to measure MULTIPLE times, drill once. And don't forget the RDU. Though it doesn't act up nearly as much, might as well put it on a schedule as well.

Ooops, missed this post. Glad it was a "simple" fix, and that they took preventive action on the remaining WSS's.

Trend and dividend are your friends.

How much mileage do you have on your Edge? Not uncommon to take 10,000 miles to reach rated mpg. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/292-mpg http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/2532-realistic-mpg http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/7302-gas-mileage-2010-ford-edge-awd http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/11457-mpg-question

See post above Did the dealership give any indication what leads them to believe the transmission is toast? Are there metal particles in the transmission? Is the fluid well run dry? Did they even bother to check the sensors? May be time to change dealerships, at the very least. Some of them won't take the time, others will go above & beyond. http://www.yelp.com/biz/magic-city-ford-lincoln-roanoke I don't really like this site, as it seems to overrate, compared to my experience: http://www.dealerrater.com/dealer/Magic-City-Ford-Lincoln-review-8802/

Is it my fault that I like a tight suspension?

Welcome to the community, Dan, and congrats to you & the wife on picking a beautiful vehicle like this one Happy trails!!!

What cleaner did you use? If that has not worked, consider DIY'ing the latch replacement. There are instructions on this forum on how to do so.

Didn't you just get new tires? Flats suck regardless.

The lucky guy: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/17572-first-impressions-of-new-edge/

No mistaking the throw on these babies! Lotsa light

Yeah, it is a bit tight in that space, but at least they are visible

I think this deer hit your Edge up for more than it let on

Turbine Shaft Speed and Ouput Shaft Speed sensors. You'll also have to put in a new solenoid body filter assembly as part of the process. And no, you don't have to drop the trans to do the work, but you will be disconnecting a lot of trans-related lines and draining/refilling the fluid. Best to have a lift available, at the very least you will need a good set of jackstands.

Make a video so we can give it a listen as well? Want to make sure it's a whistle and not a whine.