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The testers are at least 5x the price of the cap Basically a pump with adapters that fit a variety of radiators/degas bottles + an accurate gauge is what you are paying for. Even Harbor Freight's kit is $84! You CAN get a MITYVAC kit for $35. Maybe AZ or AA rent these things out? Maybe they can check the old one at the parts counter? Check for codes while you are there. For reference, the FSM recommends the UView 550000 (pressure tester) and 560000 (combustion gas tester) units. I am still concerned that the coolant level does not rise above cold full when engine is hot. Pls doublecheck carefully, it may not be a whole lot, but there SHOULD be some difference, maybe a 1/2 an inch or so.

Don't remember, did you change the degas bottle cap by any chance? If it is not holding pressure, the cooling system won't work as well.

It's quite possible the fans aren't operating properly, due to a bad motor or switch. Burping the coolant again would be a good idea. Is the coolant level on COLD FULL when engine is at ambient?

Looking forward to what you find, slEdgehammer!

Probably just need to adjust the alignment a bit on the headlights.

Haven't tried one myself yet, but they do look pretty nifty.

188F is my understanding when fully warmed up. In operation, usually around 190-192F when moving, up to 204F observed when idling for a while.

Pics ... pretty please

BTW, I think you should have that filter replaced if it is indeed in the power steering fluid circuit. It may be clogging up/clogged.

Put in some ventshades, that will cut down on the noise

Well, the key to a good diagnosis of a topend problem is always to look at the main bearings first

Could be a 5th gear start from stop situation (TSB on that), trans fluid could be low, PTU fluid may need to be drained/filled. I think the TSB applies though: TSB 10-21-02 SLIP_NEUTRAL OUT, 5TH GEAR START FROM STOP, ELECTRONIC PRNDL ERROR TSB 10-21-02 SLIP_NEUTRAL OUT, 5TH GEAR START FROM STOP, ELECTRONIC PRNDL ERROR.pdf

Torque isn't that great with timing (0-60, 1/4 mile, or any such measure), but I am interested in how it does with your Edge.

So how much have you committed to in "installment" payments so far?

That's a large area of rust. Maybe you can have it polished out and repainted if it's surface only. That's what I'd do in the meantime.

For services not listed, you do have to take the initiative. Assume old-time rules are in play. For example, for the brakes: Inspect the brakes every time the wheels come off for rotation Grease the caliper slide pins and de-rust any brake parts when pads/rotors are changed. Flush the brake fluid every 30,000 miles, ideally; at a minimum when pads/rotors are changed

Their reps hang out at http://www.focusst.org looks like a good place to ask questions online.

Worth reading from that point in the manual until the beginning of the section on Sync. Gives you a full picture for planning. BTW, I don't know if they have specials in Canada, but they have "The Works" in the U.S. (owner.ford.com) that includes oil/filter change, tire rotation and multipoint inspection. Pretty good deal! 2013 Edge Owners Manual_Maintenance.pdf

Maybe you SHOULD sell the fuel tank and upgrade to a fuel cell system!

Send a PM to FordService with your contact, vehicle & dealership details.

No, usually the dealership requests a Ford Engineer to come onsite to look over the issue(s). You can certainly ask the dealership to put in such a request. Since you probably are out of warranty, IDK what your OOP costs would be ...

FordService is our rep on here, you can contact directly for assistance. Need 5 posts on the forum to PM, use the TEST FORUM for that. If you smell gas, you could have leaky injector(s) and or clogged cat(s). Flooding of some kind? Or maybe the ignition isn't working (plugs/coils). Maybe even the PCM. Did the dealership run codes? Did you try to start with the gas pedal to the floor (to cut off fuel flow)? What is the maintenance history? Coolant loss? Spark plugs changed? Battery checked/changed?

Torrie @ Unleashed Tuning, or Livernois Motorsports should be able to get you fixed up easy.

I don't know if it'd be safe to drive around with the canister disconnected. MAYBE bypassing the purge valve would work. Now, if you can disconnect & reconnect the canister at the gas station, that could be an idea. Still better to have a diagnostician tackle this tho.

10 mpg minimum *Disclaimer: we are not responsible for decimated decimals ...