WWWPerfA_ZN0W

Still, if you want to fix it, you should know how. Same reason why the subframe on my SHO was painted before being put in.

Do you have a part number from the estimate? I see a fuel vapor tube 9D667 with included transducer for $100 ... The 9C052 transducer (included) seems to pull up a fuel vapor pressure sensor for other ford models, can't locate one for the Edge though as a separate part. FVP Sensor Hose example:

Do you have the manual controls, or the ETAC?

Congrats, it's a beaut! Welcome to the community . First Ford?

Good all over, mac. She's doing well, hope she continues to take on more projects, personally or professionally!

You are definitely a "Bullworker" model, mac! Great tips and details throughout. Another winning MG Production!!!

Every time I look at parts, I think first "Should I coat/paint them" then worry about fit

Nice WhIP!

Could be something wrong with the brake booster/vacuum lines/cruise control if you get "sudden acceleration" for no reason. I don't think it's the TB (typically LOSE power, not accelerate), but it could be, they have been known to go bad on the 2011+ MYs.

The bridge from LOL to SOL will be very short in your case! IDK ...

How's the ride feel now with the new shocks & alignment? I'll be looking closely at the post-production credits

Egads, typo forced by spellcheck, shoulda checked the spellchecker. Thanks for the correction!

Sound strategy IMHO.

How about putting that 2500 towards a new aftermarket gas tank right now??? That would work ...

And a bit more ground clearance for oil changes etc.

Good luck, play it safe, and will miss MG Productions, but will "settle" for macVideos

I guess they ran out of Hyundai Accents to rent Hope the PCM replacement fixes the issue!

Was the 21 gal before the EVAP situation ever happened? Maybe good gas finally?

The brake booster is still vacuum operated, IIRC, so yes there should be a line going into it.

Don't know, it is possible if the PCM was faulty. Here is more info on the code: http://engine-codes.com/P0430.html

Would bug the heck outta me too!

I guess you can get tanks if willing to pay extortionist prices. Third party service centers of course. Hope it's at least a good brand.

I usually max out at 19 gal also, the AWD is supposed to be 19. Maybe yours is a result of the EVAP issue? I'd keep an eye on that and not let it go over, as much as possible.

Probably not, as long as you spray thin even coats each time, and don't add much mass to the driveshaft. You would want to be careful around any joints/hangers/bearings though, tape the heck out of them to prevent overspray. http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1184854-drive-shaft-rust-treatment.html http://www.fordf150.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=69&t=86041

Believe it or not, there have been several instances of the Motorcraft battery going bad early or right from the start, perhaps you were a victim! But ignoring that for a second, the usual culprits have been loose battery terminals, a bad BCM, transmission sensor, or skipping CD/bad APIM draining power from the battery. They cause a parasitic draw on the battery, which can be established by standard electrical diagnostics. Do you drive sufficient distances every day to keep the battery charged? Shouldn't go dead in 3 days without that parasitic draw though. If the alternator is not doing its' job, then maybe.