WWWPerfA_ZN0W

gold is not the same as orange is not the same as yellow. ford has specified yellow as being a replacement for all its predecessor coolants back to the days of gold. or you can skip the confusion with a universal like peak 10x / prestone 300k ...

two things usually will prevent a/c and rad fans working properly, besides bad fans: bad a/c transducer or high pressure switch, and incorrect refrigerant pressure / usually low. so check refrigerant pressures with a pro set of gauges, don't try to correct the situation with ac-in-a-can. we have had many members stuck in the too low too high situation using those quick fixes. edge ac pressures work within a fairly narrow range. the transducer can be replaced without evacuating the system, if the schrader valve is not leaking.

usually the problem is the relay with fans staying on all the time. in this case idk, still could be the same problem. is the water pump verified working? coolant level and condition? there aren't high and low speed fans, they are variable speed depending on need. above 40mph, fans are generally not needed as passive cooling is enough. what codes if any did you get? the vehicle has shutters on the radiator for better warmup from ambient temp. could be stuck closed. https://drive.google.com/file/d/18AMhjoa0FBSCAo9orRLKNKjHCseOJI8r/view?usp=share_link https://parts.levittownfordparts.com/oem-parts/ford-fan-and-motor-f2gz8c607a cooling fans for the 2015 my https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZKjzmCcIyPhF6WZ-5x0ZUQFWoRF2hENg/view?usp=share_link 2.0 replacement procedure https://drive.google.com/file/d/1nJ6qs9_23xeS-jHOUK3vmTwEOeABgBSu/view?usp=share_link 2.0 module replacement procedure

https://www.lombardfordwarrantys.com/#JumpZone you can get ford warranties out to 149k. preinspection may be needed. most try flood, zieglers, anderson kock etc among the online dealers selling these warranties.

https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts/ford-axle-asy-rear_s-158-a.html?vin=&make=Ford&model=Edge&year=2016&submodel=&extra1=&extra2=&filter=(21805;1886) this is the rdu pretty pricey at just over 1,000 USD. sometimes for some mys you can get the viscous coupler separately if that is all you need, but i assume you feel the gearing portion is faulty not the clutch.

need to replace the fan assembly to fix this issue longterm. may be the module, or not. recommend motorcraft. dorman can be used but make sure the connections are TIGHT.

if the fluid has never been serviced, that is not bad. breakin metals accumulate on the magnet. if you dont find slivers or chunks, you *should* be good. now as to the clutch portion of it ... mercon lv filled ... idk. you may indeed have to get a new rdu if that is bad or source the viscous coupler and replace just that piece. @Special_K had sourced a high end version of the coupler for his sport project. idk if that is still an option.

i have seen oem advertised on amazon but ymmv, i still have the originals on our 2007.

i dont consider the edge a loud vehicle even in the first generation. each generation had improvements. gen 2 is very quiet. choice of tires makes a big difference. all terrains vs cuv specific tires for instance. sound deadening - so many places to do it lol. including the hood. welcome!

could be belts and tensioner, very often hear them on cold starts. rarely pulleys but could be also. worst case scenario something in the timing system/water pump. that uneven start makes me worried about the timing chain/tensioners. there is a rattle upon startup.

same as any other fwd/awd sport transmission service. the awd/fwd distinction does not really matter for this. 4x drain/fill will do nicely. if not using motorcraft or valvoline mercon lv, i recommend valvoline full synthetic multivehicle atf in the red gallon jugs. or aim even higher

well we have the right to assume fundamental things such as ground connections are sturdy. but yes, checking grounds is never a bad idea ... IF you know where they are lol.

high and low beams work through the use of shutters inside the headlight. you can compare to driver side to see if both are working correctly. clicking is when you try to switch back and forth between hi and low beams? or regardless? usually not a wiring issue but certainly could be a plug issue OR bcm issue.

no luck with updated profile showing up in posts. this is at least a 9 month old issue for me. thanks.

doesnt look like any water was mixed in the catch can drain, which is good. did it smell like fuel? @Cerberus

welcome, and watch out for that torque steer lol here are bulletins from ford for your gen up on mactgarage website, take some time to get familiar if not so already https://drive.google.com/drive/u/1/folders/1vQcTXmba9Z2AMvYe7ClAplR16ltQm6ES

if it is the biggest baddest agm battery that ford has to offer, 149.95 is an excellent price indeed. something you might get if you were a LEO lol. my guess is it would be the minimum battery that meets factory specs for your vehicle.

nice ride. glws.

spot or flood?

aftermarket branded coils are hit or miss. best to stick with ford/motorcraft whenever possible. idk how much cq coils cost you, but motorcraft coils cost you 60 bucks or under apiece nowadays.

the result of smart chargers today is that they have to assess the profile of the battery they are charging. that is what the BMS reset does. if you do not reset it for the new battery, it will charge the new battery as if it were the old run-down battery, which of course is bad for the new battery longterm. those infamous "battery saver" messages will start popping up a lot sooner than they would have.

yeah 2011+ have more problems with the RDUs than 2007-2010. probably because they changed awd programming to get that quicker rwd style launch without upgrading the internals significantly. increased vehicle power as well ... definitely not lack of fluid or airflow. the taurus sho 2010+ also experiences rdu issues. but i have seen only 1 person so far (may he RIP) that has installed a drain plug on it.

yeah hasn't ever been easy on this platform lol. have had to remove the battery and battery tray to get to it. on the plus side, you can often access/assess the transmission mount at the same time, at least on the 3.5/3.7, and make it easier to replace the booster lolololol.

this is my current favorite gooloo jump starter/battery bank https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B2NSDPVL kind of a jack of all trades 4 me. somewhat bulky, but versatile. as for batteries, you can get the best out there but you need to keep it topped up regularly. either through sufficient regular high speed driving or a battery tender. that is how you get the best life out of it, even after resetting the bms. a smart battery charger and a digital tester are also good tools to have for the long term. they are not tied to any particular make or model of vehicle, so you can help yourself and if the need arises others as well.

i assume wire resistances check out good. could be pcm issue for sure as there is SOME control over charging tho not as much as on 2011+. i assume no codes show up when obd is scanned? batteries should be checked for voltage AND cold cranking amps. electronics heavy vehicle. lately i have found that motorcraft alternators are the only ones that will do the job. i used to believe in bosch also, but i have had 2 of them brand new fail in the process of replacing the failing/not yet failed alternator on our 2007. recommend springing for new mc alternator tho theoretically remanned should work as well.