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Any particular speed you notice this problem at? Loose exhaust hanger? Loose EVAP/fuel system shield? Something loose in the cargo area? Is the rear driver side unoccupied at the time?

Norm, make sure the URL is not the first line of your post. Sometimes the HTTPS in the link can be a problem, but HTTP will work.

I think you are looking for this: 7T4Z-2B511-A Probably cheaper to get these brackets aftermarket if you can find them

I see around 1800-1850 rpm at 70 on my '07, interested to see how the '15 does.

Those sensors are transmitters. akirby is referring to the receiver end of the system that collects data from the sensors you installed.

I'm sure there's a lot of wheeling/dealing going on behind the scenes, not too different from draft day in the NFL. Real costs are rarely public knowledge, that would be anti-capitalism

Welcome to the community, and congrats on your '12 SEL! There is a lot of modding info around the forum, but this thread can help you get started: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/12565-how-tos-powertrain-electronics-body-more/

Probably took out whatever was growing in there Good idea!

Congrats, and welcome! What color, AWD, etc? Hope they don't "detail" it for you

Should keep the rockers clean

Haven't had problems with the boots coming off, though did have to twist more on a couple of them to release from the spark plug. A hemostat clamp like one you get from Harbor Freight might work. Got the following info here: http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/ignition_coil_boot~pop.html Ignition Coil Boot Products While most cars today are equipped with a typical distributor type of ignition, there are vehicles that already come with the newer coil-on plug ignition system. This type of ignition assembly eliminates the distributor and the spark plug wires. Instead, it connects the coils directly to the spark plugs in a one is to one ratio-meaning, each spark plug gets an individual coil that directly fires it to trigger the burning of fuel in the engine cylinders. This is an advantageous setup, although it also has a weak link: the ignition coil boot. This boot serves as the connection between the coil and the spark plug. It is composed of an insulating rubber and a contact spring used to connect the two components mentioned. While connecting the coils and spark plugs, the part also offers an insulation to contain the high voltage transmitted by the coil to the plug and insulate the engine and the surrounding parts from the said voltage. It prevents the voltage from escaping and getting discharged, thereby ensuring a smooth and efficient ignition function. Like all other rubber components, however, the ignition coil boot can also get damaged after a while. Years of use and handling of high voltage can cause cracking on the rubber material. And when this happens, you'll experience various driving problems such as misfires. Your car's gas mileage will also drop and you may see your check engine light blinking. The moment you notice these problems, attend to them at once. Inspect the part for any form of damage. If you find any, find a replacement immediately. Date Published : July 30,2014 How to Choose the Perfect Ignition Coil Boot for Your Car's Engine Are you having problems with starting your car? Does it run sluggish and rough while you're on the road? Does your engine often misfire? If you answered yes to all these questions, then all these point to a faulty ignition coil boot. To prevent these symptoms from getting worse, replace the boot immediately. There are no strict types of ignition coil boots, which makes shopping for one a bit tedious. So how do you know which one is the best for your engine? Here are a couple of dos and don'ts to guide you through your auto part shopping: DosPhysically examine your engine before shopping for a new ignition coil boot. Although most modern engines are already equipped with coil-on-plug technology, some older cars aren't and may not have any use for an ignition coil boot. If your ignition coil is connected to your spark plug by a rubber seal-like part, then you have a coil-on-plug system. On the other hand, if the spark plug is connected directly to the coil through wires, then buying a new boot would be a waste of money and time. So before you go around asking which ignition coil boot is the best in the market, make sure that your car actually needs one first. Choose only ignition coil boots that are made of high-grade materials. Since the boot will be exposed to all kinds of harsh elements, such as electrical loads, it should be able to withstand interior and exterior pressure coming from all parts of the engine. It is best to get an ignition coil boot that is made of silicone rubber. This kind of material will provide better protection against thermal overload, and it is less like to develop cracks. Make sure that your preferred ignition coil boot is externally insulated. Not only will it protect the ignition coil from the outside, but it will also help you handle the part better, especially during repairs and installation. Don'tsDon't purchase an ignition coil boot that is fitted with plastic parts. Plastic auto parts tend to be more brittle and could break during operation. So to avoid endangering your engine compartment, avoid purchasing ignition coil boots that come with plastic fasteners or clips. Don't settle for an ignition coil boot that doesn't come with a warranty. Warrant coverage for this particular auto part ranges from a 90-day warranty to a lifetime warranty. But aside from looking at how long the warranty is going to last, also check for other conditions and limitations. Compare warranties from different dealers to make sure you get the one that you think will give you the best value. Date Published : July 30,2014 How to Replace an Ignition Coil Boot Is your engine suddenly misfiring? Is your gas mileage dropping at an alarming rate? And finally, is your check engine line blinking wildly? These symptoms all point to a glitch in your ignition system. So if you've checked its coils and plugs and there's still nothing out of place, it's about time you look at the ignition coil boot. This rubber part receives the most abused in your ignition system and must be changed regularly. Follow this step-by-step guide to help you replace this part with ease. Difficulty level: Easy to moderate Tools you'll need:Ignition coil boot Wrench Silicone dielectric compound Step 1: Turn off your engine and allow it to cool down for a few seconds before starting on your installation job. Once it's cooled, open the hood and disconnect your car's negative battery cable. Step 2: To get to your ignition coil boot, there are a few parts that you need to take out. Start with removing the air duct intake and its different connections and engine wiring harness from your vehicle. Step 3: The ignition coil boot is a small cylinder that connects your spark plug wires from ignition coil. To get access to it, you must first disconnect the ignition coil from the electrical connector. Once the ignition coil has been freed of its connections, grasp your spark plug wires to remove the ignition coil boot. Step 4: Before installing your new ignition coil boot, make sure that you coat the boot's interior with a silicone dielectric compound. Reconnect the boot the same way it was removed. Step 5: Refasten your ignition coil to the electrical connector. You can now also reinstall the spark plug wire to the coil. Step 6: Reassemble all the parts that were removed to gain access to your ignition coil bolt. Step 7: Now that you've completed the installation, reconnect the negative cable to your battery and start testing your new ignition coil boot. Some fun pics of a Toyota COP boot here.

Looks great Nice wheels, nice lights ... ahhhhhhhh ...

Awesome! Stay safe & enjoy!

I see axle seals for the rear differential (part 9 in the diagram below): AXLE SEALS - 2010 Ford Edge (5L8Z4B416AA) but nothing similar for front. Looking on EBay, I found this possibility: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-OEM-FWD-LH-SIDE-TRANSMISSION-AXLE-SEAL-2007-2013-FORD-LINCOLN-MERCURY-/231539019670 Manufacturer Part Number: 7T4Z1177D "FWD" LH SIDE TRANSMISSION AXLE SEAL 2007-2013 FORD LINCOLN MERCURY

Congrats, good deal!

Pics?

Based on what FordParts is showing me, the sensors you got SHOULD work. Maybe they need to be "trained" at a tire shop or with one of these tools? http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-OEM-Ford-TPMS-Sensor-Training-Tool-Tire-Pressure-Programming-Activation-/271293210456

EDIT: I thought 2007-10 frequencies were 433, but it appears they are 315 also? The pic on FordParts.com for the band sensor shows 315 MHz for 7L1Z1A189A. http://www.fordparts.com/PartImage.ashx?filename=7L1Z1A189A-FRO.jpg-FRO&dw=0&dh=0&type=JPG

We like to hear that the Edge is humming & ticking along in a GOOD way Though I am sure MG is feeling deprived ...

Beautiful, great choice Congratulations, and enjoy

Window sticker generator: http://www.inventory.ford.com/services/inventory/WindowSticker.pdf?vin=

Congrats, welcome to the community, and hope they get your Edge to you ASAP!

At least there was some sunshine in the end! Sorry you had to suffer the indignities at the original dealership. I think JOEHIO also uses Beyer Ford, have heard their name favorably mentioned before. Hope your wife is also mending well!

Debris that got stuck and then fell out? Here's to hoping that's a done deal