WWWPerfA_ZN0W

I find that if I don't hit a steep hill, going at 1500 rpm at 40 instead of 1000 rpm allows the rpms to stay steady for that uphill ride (for a short while anyway). If I hit that hill at 1000 rpm, it will surely rev up to 2500 rpm to downshift and maintain that speed. So if you can find that sweet spot in the power band for your speed & gear, you can probably avoid shifting till necessary if NOT on cruise control

Sometimes the BCM/SJB can act flaky. Maybe you can "reset" the circuit by either 1) pulling the neg batt cable for 30 min or so, or 2) pulling any fuses/relays related to the headlights.

Considering we already have a 2008 Edge staring down 300,000 miles, I'd say you are insanely sane!

Just working too hard, mac, need to take a breather! I assume the dampers wear out over time, how could they not? But how LONG it takes, not a clue! Looks like a straightforward job, so I'd do it as needed.

It does have a high ... distraction ... factor!

Right now there's no roadmap to bring Sync 3 as an upgrade to pre-2016 systems. You could possibly do a hardware swap from a Sync 3 equipped vehicle, how many features would continue to work is a complete unknown. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/16949-new-sync-3-info/ and http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/17439-sync-3-staring-to-be-released-now/

Hmmm. It shows a fit for my 2007. Interesting. Great you got it figured out

Although I don't yet trust the FordParts.com catalog for the 2015, I do still see it listed for that application. Very likely the aftermarket has not updated applicable years, as they are often wont to do.

Wheel speed sensor? Actually on closer inspection, it looks like an axle shaft damper like so: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-OEM-Brake-Rear-Caliper-Mount-Damper-Left-Side-One-Only-Factory-BT4Z-4A263-A-/121422643537 I believe this link at NAPA explains the function: http://www.napabrakes.com/magnoliaPublic/home/products/hardware/low-frequency-dampers.html LOW FREQUENCY DAMPERS New low frequency dampers from NAPA Brakes help to eliminate the “moans,” “groans” and “squeals” common to the rear calipers of certain applications. NAPA Brakes low frequency dampers incorporate a unique sound and energy absorbing compound that is scientifically ‘tuned’ to the frequency found on the applications shown. Low frequency dampers from NAPA are easy to install and are another excellent addition to The Perfect Brake Job®. Offer this brake noise solution to your customers experiencing rear caliper brake noise. LowFrequencyDamperFlyerNBLFD12.pdf

Niiiiiice

Tons of fun to be had, good info too! Thanks to MG!!!

What is your driving style, Jackman? Mostly city, mostly highway, ... You can go longer on a mostly highway style as there is less stress on the trans. The more city/rushhour/stopngo driving you do, the more frequent the fluid changes should be. Look at the SEVERE DUTY schedules in the OM to get an idea. If you have significant city driving and you want to keep it in tiptop shape, perform changes at the SEVERE DUTY intervals. Don't know if a flush is really needed if you do frequent changes, but flush is SAFER when you do frequent changes, oddly enough. A multiple drain/fill process will do a good enough job.

Quick video from a Ford Tech on this issue:

Hope that "scolding"'s on tape there, mac! That alone will be worth the price of admission

Contact www.cd3performance.com to see what options they have for your Edge.

Where did you find the parts?

Welcome to the Edge/MKX community, your '15 looks magnificent Enjoy!

Let us know if this does fix the issue, and good luck!

Ford does list a potentiometer service kit separately for the throttle body 9T4Z-9B989-A. You can find it on EBay for $33 new right now. If you can return the part in case it does not work, there would be practically no risk to trying a new throttle body.

I hope she's ready to watch the Edge pour its' guts out

For the VCT Oil Control Solenoid, you have to remove the valve cover (as below) and unbolt the solenoid to remove it. Not sure on the VCT seal. If the VCT seal does need to be removed, the FSM shows a seal remover/installer tool, possibly get on loan from an auto store or DIY? You can try to remove the seal on the valve cover by "using a socket that is catches the lip of the seal and you use a hammer to get it out". TSB 11-6-1 supersedes 10-16-1. TSB 11-6-1_3.5L-3.7L ENGINE - VCT CODES P0011, P0012, P0016, P0018, P0021, P0022 - RUNS ROUGH OR MISSES - VEHICLES BUILT ON OR BEFORE 20081215.pdf 3.5L / 3.7L ENGINE - VCT CODES P0011, P0012, P0016, P0018, P0021, P0022 - RUNS ROUGH OR MISSES - VEHICLES BUILT ON OR BEFORE 12/15/2008 PROCEDURE for Valve Cover Removal (RH/Bank 2): CAUTION: During engine repair procedures, cleanliness is extremely important. Any foreign material, including any material created while cleaning gasket surfaces that enters the oil passages, coolant passages or the oil pan, can cause engine failure. Remove the RH ignition coils. For additional information, refer to Section 303-07 .Disconnect the power steering pressure (PSP) switch electrical connector.Disconnect the RH catalyst monitor sensor electrical connector and pin-type retainer.Disconnect the RH heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) electrical connector.Disconnect the RH variable camshaft timing (VCT) electrical connector.Disconnect the 3 RH fuel injector electrical connectors.Disconnect the heated positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) valve electrical connector.Detach all of the wiring harness retainers from the RH valve cover and the stud bolts.Remove the bolt, the 10 stud bolts and the RH valve cover. Discard the gasket. Per this link, it is asserted that cam phaser replacement can be DIY as long as you have a full set of basic tools. 7T4Z-6A257-C Camshaft Phaser Kit (BOTH BANKS) 7T4Z-6A257-B Camshaft Phaser Kit (LEFT BANK) 8T4Z-6A257-B Camshaft Phaser Kit (RIGHT BANK) http://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts/ford-sensor-camshaft-po_7t4z-6a257-c.html Per this link, you need to remove the front timing chain cover remove the timing chain and replace the cam phasers with updated cam phasers. I believe macbwt has a video showing at least part of this procedure.

Still there in the first post. Don't know if there's a regional block on YT disallowing CA but shouldn't be.

Good luck, hope you can fix it as a DIY approach. Document as much as you can for later review.

Bank 2 is the radiator side of the engine (closest to you from the front). You are getting codes, but the codes MAY be for symptoms, or MAY be for the cause. You won't know until you get into it. For example, It is possible that the timing chain/tensioner need to be replaced first (or in addition to your list).

Let's just say that until Ford starts covering electronics such as the door ajar sensor and throttle body under extended warranty, you should factor those costs into your decision as a definite maybe. They do cover the APIM under extended, so probably safe to "discount" that particular issue. Don't ignore maintenance and I'd say you'd be good to go for 5-6 years easy. Look at the maintenance intervals for the Edge over 150,000 miles to see what you MIGHT be in for.