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Game ON!

These are what I am referring to. You do have to remove the valve covers to do this work. At least bank 2 is right up front!

now all we gotta do is give it some Raptor lighting

did you replace the cam sensors (under the intake) or the VCT solenoids (on top of the valve covers/belt side of engine)? want to be sure because ford uses interchangeable terminology on some things.

factory manual accessible here https://drive.google.com/drive/u/2/folders/1wBzOTmEZvCvnzvmTI470QBGyYX60xDBh

You must be a perfectionist LOL

Usually caused by worn strut mounts on the Edge. Still original suspension?

The Euro models also have diesel engines, not gasoline, but yeah there is always some marketing. There is also the matter of people maintaining their vehicles properly when towing regularly, and knowing what/how to tow. So it's easier to disavow it right off the bat and cut down on warranty issues.

which ones did you go with?

Generally people have reported +ve experiences with Detroit Axle.

thank you, happy holidays, make some great memories!

no sticky that i am aware of atm it is mode door actuators that control direction of airflow, and blend door actuators that control temperature.

see the results of the change for yourself here https://www.tacomaworld.com/tirecalc?tires=235-50r18-235-60r18 with snows you want MORE sidewall, not less. a 65 or even 70 would be better suited.

That reset works only on the dual climate control. Most times we have not had to deal with problems with manual climate control. i will look thru the shop manual and see what's what. EDIT: the manual isn't helpful at all, lol. dolsen pretty much summed up everything already. If coolant level is good (engine off, at ambient, top of the COLD FILL RANGE), heater core inlet/outlet temps are good, we are left with actuator or the module itself. check the actuator to make sure it is moving freely. hopefully that is where the problem lies. I don't think it is the thermostat because you would at least get SOME heat out of the vents, but it might be lukewarm instead of hot.

bolt pattern and offset are fine. HOWEVER, the hub bore is different. 2011-2014 hub bore is smaller than 2007-2010, at 63.4 vs 70.6. So you will have to bore out the Sport wheels to fit correctly. You CAN find adapters instead, but adapters are not good in the long run. Plus you might need new studs to mount the lug nuts onto if you use adapters.

On the electronics side, both blend door actuators could be stuck (unlikely) or the HVAC module itself could be having issues. Have never seen this connected to a weak battery, but check it anyway. Ford dealers can recalibrate the module when the DIY method fails. Of course there will be a charge I am assuming you have the automatic dual climate unit in your vehicle.

If it's the 2.0 Ecoboost 420/Cleveland engine, could be a classic 2-3 cylinder coolant intrusion.

how many miles on your Edge? seems like a mode door actuator problem, usually it is a blend door actuator issue on these vehicles. It IS possible you have obstruction in the ducting. Do you park under trees a lot, or have pest issues in the area?

I call DIBs Welcome!

As long as the engine is using a VCT and not a Ti-VCT management system, it should drop right in. Yes the crossover pipe could be a variable, good point. Not sure you can swap the sensors between VCT and Ti-VCT engines. The flywheel can also be different.

it can if you upgrade the sensors, wiring harness and the PCM. Better to find a pre-2013 donor vehicle from Flex/Taurus/Explorer. OR get a 3.7 from a pre 2013 MKS, or 2007-2010 CX9. Also dropin propositions.

I would start by checking the blowoff valves and cracked turbo piping, esp right next to the clamps. sometimes a hose will pop off the boost control solenoid as well, if they are left unclamped. The orange seal I am referring to on the blowoff valves *3.5EB https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=9946.0;attach=20463;image https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=9946.0;attach=20465;image

that is what happens when the coolant level is low OR the core is plugged. You will need to keep flushing the coolant till it runs clean/clear. IDK if a flush chemical like Motorcraft or Prestone sell will be helpful for the engine or not. You can try flushing just the heater core either with hot water or with some KLR (based on one owner's recounting of success with it).

Thanks for the followup

There are smaller units than leaf blowers but they do cost and are corded. https://smile.amazon.com/Metro-Blaster-Sidekick-Professional-Motorcycle/dp/B00UC8E9LQ/