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You have a good mechanic!

Are these both original IKT keys, or did you replace one or both of them before? If the key has lost its' programming or is only a physical key, I could see it POSSIBLY not cranking. A PATS no-start may involve a vehicle no-start due to either the fuel injectors not operating or the starter not operating (or both). If the PATS theft light does not prove out and one (or both) of the previous conditions are present, it may be due to a PATS issue. If the theft light proves out, and the vehicle does not start, it is probably not a PATS issue. Refer to the Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis (PC/ED) manual. If the theft light does not illuminate at all, it may be an instrument cluster issue. Refer to the Symptom Chart in this section for additional information. A low battery voltage may cause the PATS to allow starter operation, but may keep the fuel injectors from operating. PATS Operation The PATS function is controlled by the instrument cluster. With this type of PATS, there are parameters that need to be reset if either the instrument cluster or the PCM (or both) are replaced. Refer to Passive Anti-Theft System (PATS) Parameter Reset in this section. When the PATS key is turned to the ON or START position, the instrument cluster initiates the key interrogation sequence by sending a voltage signal to the PATS transceiver. The transceiver then uses its antenna to bounce a signal off the transponder in the PATS key. This process "reads" the PATS key identification code and sends the key identification code back to the instrument cluster, which interprets it and determines if it matches one of the stored key codes. If it does match one of the stored key codes, the instrument cluster will send a message to the PCM to ground the starter relay solenoid coil and to also allow the fuel injectors to operate. If it does not match one of the stored key codes, or it is only a partial key read or no key read, the instrument cluster will send a message to the PCM to not ground the starter relay solenoid coil and not allow fuel injector operation. The anti-theft indicator in the instrument cluster will flash (or may glow steadily) and the instrument cluster will store one or more DTCs. All elements of PATS must be functional before the vehicle will start. If any of the components are not working correctly, the vehicle will not start. If the instrument cluster must be replaced for any reason (PATS concerns or instrument cluster concerns), the PATS keys must also be programmed into the new instrument cluster. Refer to Integrated Keyhead Transmitter (IKT) Key Programming Using Diagnostic Equipment in this section.

Nice upgrade! Though the kits are a bit over the $39.99 range we used to quote

Definitely shop around. Some dealers are very accommodating. Look at Ford AND Lincoln stores.

You'll pay the diag fee only if the problem turns out to be something else. That's always a possibility, however remote it may be.

You will have to remove the instrument cluster (don't disconnect the electrical connector, probably don't need to disconnect the battery either) before removing the lens. Removal All vehicles NOTE: When installing a new instrument cluster, it is necessary to upload the module configuration to the scan tool. For additional information, refer to Section 418-01 . Disconnect the battery. For additional information, refer to Section 414-01 .Remove the 2 screws and the lower steering column cover. If equipped, disconnect the ambient air temperature sensor air hose and electrical connector. Tilt the steering column to the lowest position.Edge NOTE: The instrument panel center finish panel is held in place by spring clips located on the finish panel. Pull the instrument panel center finish panel straight out to release the retaining tabs and position aside.All vehicles Release the 4 locating tabs on the instrument cluster finish panel gap hiding reveal from the upper steering column cover. NOTE: The upper section of the instrument cluster finish panel is held in place by spring clips located on the finish panel. Remove the 2 screws and the instrument cluster finish panel. If equipped, disconnect the power liftgate switch electrical connector. Remove the 4 screws and the instrument cluster. Disconnect the electrical connector. NOTE: Edge shown, MKX similar. Release the 8 tabs and remove the lens.

You have to have a dealership/tire center determine which sensor(s) may be at fault, or whether it is the module itself. Start by pulling codes from the PCM (via the OBD), then play with tire pressures (one tire at a time). That's about all you can DIY. There might be PIDs that Torque Pro can poll for you if your Edge is 2010+, I don't know what they would be, to show you individual tire pressure. I know 2010+ SHO's/Flex's/Explorers etc can monitor them.

Sure hope the dealership can figure this out quickly, and then that's the last of the worries for a long long time.

Do you think it's broken in yet, or some further improvement (mpg) is to be expected?

A/C has been slow to cool (blowing "cold" air, that is), even when ambient and engine is just warmed up. Compared it to the '97 Intrepid, which began blowing cold air within seconds of starting the A/C in similar conditions. Looked at the condenser in front of the radiator. Lots of fins that remind me of the Explorer Sport wheel look Didn't really see any major obstructions, but quite a few small pebbles caught here & there. And the fins were black (dirt? paint?). So I took an A/C Foaming Cleaner (Home Depot) and sprayed the condenser liberally with it, let it sit for a few minutes, hosed it off with gentle water pressure. Waiting to get a chance to check for any performance changes, but the fins do look much cleaner.

It's kinda hard for the DIY'er not to "fix" the situation completely understandable! Just like going to the doctor's, how do you know when your cold is not just a cold ...

I personally do not. They will need to see it happen before they can fix it. And I am sure this will happen again sooner rather than later. Did you scan for codes using an OBD scan tool? tsb07-21-11 6F50 TRANSAXLES BUILT PRIOR TO 10-21-2007—DTC P0715, P0717, P0718, P0720, P0721, P0722 AND-OR HARSH ENGAGEMENT, NO UPSHIFT, FIFTH GEAR ONLY 2007-08 Edge.pdf

A search on the forum will be enlightening Basically, you might have faulty wheel speed sensor(s), but the usual culprits are the TSS & OSS sensors (turbine & output shafts) inside the transmission casing.

Other EBs: custom tune, downpipes, intake/exhaust systems, "bigger" turbos, methanol injection. Going all out? Upgraded engine components (rods/pistons/head studs/etc) are available. No drivetrain mods really, other than shortened (full synthetic) fluid change intervals to maximize performance and life.

Can't beat HWHL! Good luck with the new Edge

18 watts would be fine. Specs for sample 921 bulb

From the owner's manual (pg 323 or thereabouts): 2.0 ECOBOOST/2.7 ECOBOOST/3.5 V6 Windshield wiper blade WW-2755 (driver side) WW-2760 (passenger side) WW-1413 (rear window) I guess they didn't change that over the years!

Yeah, it is pretty sad one cannot find the bearings separately. If your mechanic is daring enough to take one apart, he could probably get a very similar part (specwise) from one of the bearing companies out there.

CB will be fine, it's just another small dip in the road. Every incident tends to be very stressful, regardless of magnitude, but our best wishes are always with you.

Go help out a small farmer, do some physical labor, that will relieve your stress for sure

Not so common, I think. The further along we get in automotive design, the more we take things for granted, i.e., the vehicle will auto-handle the situation. I haven't had ONE salesman yet point out these things during the sales process. BUT, I WILL say that since the Owner's Manual is so easy to get to in PDF form, it is worthwhile checking/searching for answers first

Finally, a break in the clouds! Let's hope that Joey is not an isolated case

Ronaldo! How is your Edge restoration project going? Did you get the axle issue resolved?

I think you should give it a go with a full synthetic oil just to see whether it makes engine operation smoother/better mpg. I have seen some benefit with Mobil 1, but too soon yet to draw a conclusion.

I think the fan for the A/C is on the driver side of the fan assembly. You won't feel a breeze there if you start up the Edge with the A/C off. But should when you turn on the MAX A/C. At least that was my experience. Even with a strong light, it was kinda hard to see the fans turning. Maybe a sizeable makeup mirror would work?