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Well, they have to have some way of dealing with pressure release, just not sure HOW on this engine, at least from the parts diagrams. Would need to get hold of a service manual, such as found on EBay on DVD or paper format.

I sure hope you have done air filter too, else you might find gummy bears and french fries and all that jammed up in there!!! The Motorcraft plugs do just fine, and they are relatively inexpensive to boot, no mention of any problems with them. So I'd stick to that (SP411). They will likely be gapped close to what they should be (0.054-0.057), so you can check with a spark plug gap gauge, being careful not to be hard with the center electrode on the spark plug. Not worth re-gapping if under 0.060. http://www.amazon.com/K-Tool-International-KTI73701-Spark-Gauge/dp/B000J544IU/ I prefer "feeler" gauges, but haven't found one for our application that I like. As for the PCV valve, I had pre-ordered both a heated EV261 and a non-heated EV257 valve because I did not know which one I had. If you order from RockAuto, you can return the one you don't use pretty easily. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1434490&parttype=5052 5% discount when checking out at RockAuto with codes found here: http://www.shoforum.com/index.php?threads/rock-auto-discount-code.55138/page-17 3380536525584995 This discount code expires on September 20, 2015 so don't wait! As for alignments, look first for a good shop, those 3year guarantees don't mean much if they don't have competent personnel or uptodate machinery in the first place. Should cost right around $90 for a 4wheel alignment.

A broken torque strut could definitely create some "drifty" feeling.

Yeah, I know, but I had to ask LOL!!! Global warming Here's a great comparison of tires: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/surveyresults/surveydisplay.jsp?type=CSTAS&width=245%2F&ratio=60&diameter=18&tireSearch=true&filter=y&autoMake=Ford&autoYear=2007&autoModel=Edge+SEL&autoModClar=AWD You could also consider the Yokohama YK580, Yokohama Parada Spec-X, and Nitto tires (from my personal experience) when shopping tires.

How many miles on your Edge? Oil: Now that you have noticed the issue, it is better to err on the side of caution and switch to the High Mileage oil as soon as posible. Not knowing the cause, this is cheap insurance. Don't want it to become a full-on gusher by waiting 7500 miles, because at that point it WILL get expensive. Spark plugs: Yes, the intake manifold has to be removed. You will need a basic tool set, an extension bar, a torque wrench, etc. as outlined in this thread: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/8724-sparkplug-replacement-job-info-with-photos/ mac also has a video or two on this process on his channel. Takes 1-2 hours the first time. Very easy, just take your time! PCV valve: sits atop the rear (firewall side) valve cover. If you don't have a 2007 Edge, there is only one type of valve to replace. Mine is a 2007 and is an electrically heated valve. In any PCV system, there are two pieces, a fresh air intake (the hose you see coming out of the front valve cover, next to the engine fill cap), and the "engine fumes" return (through the PCV valve on the rear valve cover on the Edge). You DO have to take the intake manifold off first, that is why spark plugs & PCV go together. PTU: Do you have a garage or a driveway where you can see any leaks from the PTU? You'd definitely need to look closely to see if there are any leaks from the trans-PTU seal or from the PTU vent itself. PTU fluid smells nasty when new, and even worse as it gets used up, so if you see a smear on the PTU (passenger side of the Edge), it's worth the finger touch&smell test. Find a reputable repair shop to look over your suspension/steering components (repairpal, yelp, friends/family). They may even do it for free, and let you know what needs to be fixed when. With any luck, an alignment would be all that's needed.

Some of that oil must be landing on the exhaust pipe, and with no airflow (i.e. idling), the pipe gets hot enough to burn it off. If it's labeled as a High Mileage oil, it more than likely has seal conditioners listed on the label, as for Mobil 1: https://mobiloil.com/en/motor-oils/mobil-1/mobil-1-high-mileage http://www.valvoline.com/our-products/motor-oil/full-synthetic-max-life http://www.castrol.com/en_us/united-states/motor-oil/synthetic-blend-motor-oil/gtx-high-mileage-motor-oil.html Switch to a full synth HM oil, that should help. Also, if you have not done the PCV valve/spark plugs yet, now is a good time to do so. If the valve is blocked partially or completely, it will increase backpressure in the engine leading to leaks at the most vulnerable point. Speed dependent is usually wheel bearing, does it increase more when turning the steering left or right? I assume the noise is coming from the front since you mention the PTU. If you see any leaks on the PTU side, you may have leaks there also: reddish is trans fluid, brownish is PTU gear oil. The steering issue could simple be a wheel alignment issue. When did you last have this done? Steering components would be checked at alignment time. It is possible the steering column needs a bit of adjustment also to keep it pointed straight.

I believe you would be looking for the vacuum valve solenoid (wastegate), but don't see it listed on the 2013 2.0L EB site (search www.levittownfordsupercenter.com).

Time to give the cleaners a go, or maybe replace it yourself even!

It does look like an engine oil leak, like mac said. So try a good High Mileage motor oil. Should state clearly on the label that it has seal swellers. If you like, clean the area first with engine cleaner to observe current behavior. Doesn't look like an old/past issue, but it might be. Are you referring to the 19 minute mark on the video, mac? These are the engine oil leak points from the FSM: Leakage Points — Underhood Examine the following areas for oil leakage: Valve cover gaskets Cylinder head gaskets Oil cooler, if equipped Oil filter adapter Engine front cover Oil filter adapter and filter body Oil level indicator tube connection Oil pressure sensor Leakage Points — Under Engine, With Vehicle on Hoist Examine the following areas for oil leakage: Oil pan gaskets Oil pan sealer Engine front cover gasket Crankshaft front seal Crankshaft rear oil seal Oil filter adapter and filter body Oil cooler, if equipped Leakage Points — With Transmission and Flywheel Removed Examine the following areas for oil leakage: Crankshaft rear oil seal Rear main bearing cap parting line Flexplate mounting bolt holes (with flexplate installed) Pipe plugs at the end of oil passages Oil leaks at crimped seams in sheet metal parts and cracks in cast or stamped parts can be detected when using the dye method. BTW, here are links to the engine/transaxle mounting parts: 2007-2010 3.5L: https://secure.revolutionparts.com/levittown-ford/auto-parts/2007/ford/edge/sel-trim/3-5l-v6-gas-engine/engine-cat/engine-and-trans-mounting-scat 2011+ 3.5L https://secure.revolutionparts.com/levittown-ford/auto-parts/2011/ford/edge/sel-trim/3-5l-v6-gas-engine/engine-cat/engine-and-trans-mounting-scat 2012+ 2.0EB https://secure.revolutionparts.com/levittown-ford/auto-parts/2012/ford/edge/sel-trim/2-0l-l4-gas-engine/engine-cat/engine-and-trans-mounting-scat

FoMoCo is stamped on the rotor hat, so looks like OEM alright. Definitely the pads were not making proper contact with the rotor, as you can see from the pad itself as well as the rotor. Either road salt or brake fluid could have caused this, or maybe the vehicle was sitting for a long period of time in very wet conditions before being moved. Then the pads were "un-stuck"/"un-frozen" at some point for use.

We want you to enjoy the Edge for a LONG time yet, Redbow! My dad would have turned 83 next year, and I wouldn't think twice about getting him the Ecopias if he were driving an Edge. There are quite a few good tires out there. If that price is an installed price with protection/balancing/alignment, that is very good! Though the pricing sometimes gets better when sales come up. No real sales out there right now What kind of weather do you normally get, Redbow? Just curious.

If you can tolerate a minute or two of heat, turn the climate control to VENT at full speed with windows cracked open to get the hot air circulated out. Then close the windows and proceed to nuke it with MAX A/C

Owner manual here: http://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/catalog/owner_guides/08edgog1e.pdf

The trans fluid is Mercon V, system capacity is about 12 quarts, but if you do a 3 time drain & fill to "flush" it, you need about 15 quarts, as each drain will net 5 quarts. Is it a rough shift, or a bump-type feeling? There is a TSB for a bump that occurs in the 0-8 mph range when turning a corner or accelerating from a stop. tsb11-05-06 Sluggish acceleration from stop or low speed followed by bump.pdf

Possible your key is not being recognized by the system. Maybe it needs a new battery in the fob, or needs to be re-programmed to be recognized.

A methanol injection kit helps take care of the carbon buildup issue in the Ecoboost engines

The Ecopias are near top of class CUV tires. The Kelly/Hankook models mentioned are "general purpose/economy class" tires. There are obvious traction and handling issues with having two different tire types on the same vehicle, even if they are the same class (all seasons in this case). Tire replacement may indeed solve the problem. You could have them rotated, see if anything changes. But since there is no other indication of anything definitively wrong with the tires (caused by the tires), it is worthwhile looking at bearings (or shocks). If the sound is coming from the front, does it become worse when you turn the wheels one direction vs another?

Has it just recently started doing this? Maybe this TSB is the one you are thinking of ... TSB 12-3-3_POWER LIFTGATE OPENING - INTERMITTENT OPERATION - BUILT ON OR BEFORE 3-2-2012.pdf

Definitely possible, it has been sometimes described as a natural gas smell when the PTU pukes gear oil.

Welcome to the forum, Norm, looks like you got a great deal! What color, AWD/FWD, ... ? Pics?

These are called "Mode Door Actuators" in the FSM. On the 2007, there are two, one accessible from the glove compartment, and one in the driver footwell area of the center console. Mode Door Actuator — Air Inlet Door (Glove compartment) Mode Door Actuator — Defrost/Panel/Floor Door

There's a couple of films you can apply for the touchscreen that works pretty well. Nushield & Zagg for example. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/2086-screen-protectors-for-the-navigation/ http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/5669-myford-touch-protective-film/

I would guesstimate 50-60% rise in output on stock internals, based on results from the 3.5EB. Tune, Lower temp TStat, smaller-gap spark plugs, trans/oil coolers will all help get you there. Would be nice to have an LSD set for the Edge, but given the rather lackluster response to hi-perf mods ...

More money to be spent on stuff they didn't want to spend on ... invisible part of the system that doesn't get appreciated until something goes awry.

Are all 4 tires the same make & model & spec? How much difference in mileage/tread depth? Checked the tread carefully for embedded foreign objects? Is the noise only from the front, only from the back, or both? It's usually very difficult to isolate tire noise without moving them around the vehicle, or swapping in new tires. If it is a wheel bearing, it should increase as you turn in one direction vs another.