WWWPerfA_ZN0W

maybe you can get them to reset the bms for you for free, after all the hassle! since you have that gas smell, probably best not to use a charger at all until that issue is fixed. i would get the charger connected and working first tho, then turn the ignition to ON. the negative clamp MUST be to engine or chassis ground (an unpainted chassis surface or a solid engine component such as a generator mount or engine lifting eye), NOT the negative terminal. If you hook it to the neg terminal, you WILL have to reset the BMS afterwards.

Ron's got it summed up. SOC deserves routine tendering loving care Driving is really meant to top up batteries, not revive dead ones, keep that in mind. Also, testers will have a bit of variance built in, check specs on your tester to see how much "here or there" is normal. Make sure the test clamps are seated firmly on the terminals every time on the largest piece of mass. Hooking them up to the bolts can change test results. V should be fine but CCA will be affected by this. Did you reset the BMS? That will also help the battery. When you put it on a tender that first time, make sure to leave the ignition on (engine off) for the duration. That will be sufficient to reset it.

there is no proven "need" on ecoboost engines. but will it keep the valves clean? yes. will it prevent misfires due to carbon breaking off and disrupting combustion, or due to valves not closing completely? yes. definitely a routine maintenance item IF you want to go this route. if you are unsure, take it to a pro, or leave well enough alone.

Wheel bearings are another possibility if noise only happens while turning left or right. Def check that PS fluid level, as ^^^.

Ford lists CYFS-12Y-PCT as the replacement plug, which comes to SP550 on rockauto https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8399588&jsn=10933 i think sp537 was CYFS-12Y-2

Any VCT based 3.5/3.7 is a plug n play motor for your 2010. The 2.0 did not appear in the Edge till 2012. So Edge, MKX thru 2010. Taurus, Flex, MKS, MKT, etc thru 2012 (switched to Ti-VCT in 2013). Mazda CX9 2007-2010 3.7

you can always ask ford corporate for some goodwill adjustment, if the warrant was a Ford one. pretty soon after expiration, so worth a try.

the biggest fear is excess carbon chunking into the turbos after the cleaner lets them rip loose. ecoboosts generally do not suffer as badly as many other brands. BUT the wise thing to do is borescope the cylinders prior to an induction process. If done every 3 years/36K from mile 0, the risk is minimal. If you want to be sure tho ... If there is substantial buildup, best to do some kind of media blasting directly rather than induction cleaning.

Let's see some pics!

coolant in the airbox would be highly unusual. sure it is coolant? on a naturally aspirated engine, pressure is directed INTO the engine, so it would take a severe event to come out that route. If the lower intake gasket sprung a leak, it should still go into the combustion chamber, not the airbox, assuming no loose hoses/air tubes etc.

could be multiple reasons, such as venting of overpressurization, or leaking fuel that has gathered and finally evaporated. if you can narrow down the location where the smell is strongest that will help. Location of the canister/vent valve https://www.autoblog.com/2016/01/08/symptoms-of-a-bad-or-failing-fuel-filler-neck/ ^ about filler neck issues

yes, most likely the driver circuit is toast, and you need to have the pcm reprogrammed by a service such as circuitboardmedics.com how many miles when this code first popped up? how did the coil look when you pulled it out? any pics to share?

that is given as a POSSIBLE culprit, because people often replace turn signals, backup lights, etc with aftermarket LED. so probably some "smart" guy at Ford added this possibility into the diagnostic.

the canister and vent valve are located under the cabin, protected by a shield. i believe on the driver side, but you'd have to verify. the purge valve is on the firewall, i think it unlikely this is the problem, tho. The fuel filler neck and hoses connected to the fuel tank can also be culprits, altho much less frequently.

Time to check the canister, vent valve and purge valve.

R&R of the unit https://drive.google.com/file/d/16Qm0HVZ4PWgcOx4xBpXVmVQmCw9G6TC5/view?usp=sharing

the latest I heard was on the Explorer / Police Interceptor. Quite a bit of work there, in one of them. In a CSP, they reprogram the climate control module and replace the drain valves. Customer Satisfaction Program 19N05 Certain 2011-2017 Model Year Explorer Vehicles Carbon Monoxide Concern SERVICE ACTION At the request of the customer, dealers are to reprogram the climate control module (using IDS release 107.04 or higher), and replace the lift gate drain valves. This service must be performed at no charge to the vehicle owner. NOTE: Climate control module reprogramming brings fresh air into the vehicle cabin during rapid acceleration. Some customers in extremely hot and humid climates may notice a momentary change in max air conditioning output.

https://forscan.org/home.html https://forscan.org/download.html

Yummy in my tummy

yes. follow my instructions in the post above. should work. on the offchance that it does not, the dealer may have to manually reset the BMS thru software, OR you can do it yourself with Forscan for Windows + Extended License. Do you have a fuse you can pull for the remote start? If not, it is what it is, I guess.

If charge is good and blend door actuators are working well, it could be something simple like the repair guys forgot to plug the A/C transducer back in. Even with a refrigerant leak, there should be some level of cooling. UNLESS the engine fans have failed, and you are at idle trying to get the A/C to work. Does the A/C work at cruising speed, 40 mph or higher? Would be very unusual for the climate control to die right after the repair. I assume it is fully functional, as far as you can tell.

We had a gen 2 owner get his 2.0 EB replaced just under the wire as well LOL. So at least SOME folks are having good luck this season.

If the PATS flashes faster, there is a communications problem. Usually, IME when turning the ignition on with a key, it is a "dead" fob. While the accessories (headlights, radio, etc) will work, the engine will not be allowed to start. Also, check for any codes set in the PCM. Codes can prevent startup as well if powertrain/safety related.

Thank you for circling back, good news indeed!

Amazon was selling a bunch of dash switches (rocker style) in their Daily Deals section last I looked. https://smile.amazon.com/Nilight-Wiring-Harness-Waterproof-Warranty/dp/B074GYNJ85/ https://smile.amazon.com/MICTUNING-MIC-LSW1-Lighted-Rocker-Switch/dp/B00PCRXFJ4/ as examples