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Cannot be cleaned, needs to be replaced, as it is an electronic failure in the TB controller triggering the "failsafe". The electronic part (potentiometer) is available separately for the 2007-2010 9T4Z-9B989-A, unfortunately I do not see one for the 2011+ (maybe it's called something else?). You could try MAF/electronics cleaner on it in case it IS just dirt buildup (like the door latches). No way to provide evidence one way or the other on a working TB, unfortunately. But a clean TB will behave like it is told to, at least! EDIT: As far as I can confirm, 2011+ potentiometers/throttle body sensors for the 3.5L are part number 9T4Z-9B989-B, or Motorcraft DY-1286. http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/PartDetail.aspx?n=IAhDc0KM68Y9KaulEbOtnw%3d%3d&id=327309175&m=44&search=true Images may not be the exact part, but give you an idea:

cherrybomb, do you have AWD or FWD in your Edge? Have you checked the trans fluid level/condition? Do you have the A/C running at the time? specialk, does the humming occur in a straight line only or if you have the wheel turned also? Straight line only could indicate tire issues. Had your brakes serviced recently/how many miles on them? May need the frequency dampers that the 2011+ come with from factory (macbwt has a video on those on this forum/as MacT on YT). If that's not it, possibly the lug nuts are not torqued properly, or the rotors/pads need to be changed, or the wheels need to be checked for "true"ness/balance.

Fingers crossed they stand the test of time

Usually has to do with the design of the parking pawl. I have this all the time when the Edge is on any level of slope. To prevent this, try shifting into Neutral first with foot on main brake pedal, then release the parking brake a second later. I have found this to help a great deal, not 100%, maybe 95% of the times when parked on a slope. Also, when parking, shift to Neutral first, apply the parking brake, THEN shift to Park. This will help minimize chances of that infamous "AWD roll".

Welcome to the forum, Dukhaykh, glad to have you here!

Sorry to hear, glad you are OK. How many miles do you have on your Edge, any warranty remaining? If an emissions defect can be proven, there is emissions warranty coverage (7/70?) that you might be able to fall back on. I would suspect throttle body failure also. Unfortunately, there is no TSB out for the Edge like there is for the Fusion. And very often, the symptoms occur randomly, at least at first, so it is hard to duplicate for the service shop. You can a) replace the throttle body yourself (a very DIY job), buy parts at discount from Levittown or from EBay, and keep the receipt for possible future reimbursement, and/or b] contact FordService on here with a case number from your Ford dealer to see what they can do to help you out. Post 4 more posts here to get PM privileges. Then PM FordService with vehicle & situation details to get the ball rolling.

If your Edge/MKX feels like it is driving over rumble strips or rough road, and you have eliminated misfires as the possibility (as the OP did), here is an article on Torque Converter Shudder that may help with the diagnostics: http://www.agcoauto.com/content/news/p2_articleid/203

Good luck, I believe DriveBright will justify your faith!

A quick look at how the cam phasers on the 3.7L differ from those on the 3.5L.

Wanted to add a technical note. The cam phaser used on the "Mustang" 3.7L engine (2011+) is of a different design than the 3.5L, and does not rely on oil pressure, per this article from Car & Driver: "Most modern variable valve-timing (VVT) systems use a cam phaser that rotates the position of each cam­shaft relative to the timing chain. Think of making a record turntable go faster or slower by spinning it with your hands. The cam phaser has two basic com­ponents: an outer sprocket connected to the timing chain and an inner rotor (connected to the camshaft) that varies the valve timing by adjusting the rotation angle of the cam. This inner rotor consists of a set of lobes, and oil fills the space between the outer housing and the lobes. Left alone, the rotor will simply spin at the same rate as the outer housing. If you add oil to one side of the lobe and remove it from the other, the rotor moves, and—voilà!—there’s your variable valve timing. The majority of these VVT systems use oil pressure to push the rotor back and forth, but BorgWarner thinks its cam-torque-actuated (CTA) system marks an important step forward. Oil-pressure-actuated (OPA) systems require an upsize oil pump to pro­duce the extra pressure that’s required to work the cam phasers, which saps some of the fuel-economy gains of VVT. With a mechanical oil pump, OPA systems don’t work well at low engine speeds because the pump doesn’t build pressure and volume until the revs get higher. The CTA system avoids those pitfalls by using Newton’s Third Law of Motion—for every action there is an equal and opposite reaction—to move the oil in the cam phas­ers. When a cam lobe pushes a valve open, the valve spring resists that force and pushes back. Similarly, when the valve spring pushes a valve closed, it also pushes on the cam lobe in the opposite direction from the valve opening. When multiplied over an entire camshaft, there is enough energy from these back-and-forth forces to make cam phasing work. <img Another trick to BorgWarner’s system is the way it moves oil. A center spool valve, controlled by a solenoid inside the cam-phasing rotor, directs the flow. With the valve open in one direction, oil flows into only one side of the oil pockets and can’t leave. By sliding the valve back and forth, the system can mete out the precise amount of oil flow on either side of the rotor lobes. The key advantages of the CTA system are that it responds quickly even at idle and can operate using a standard engine’s oil pump. But there are downsides. As engine speeds increase, the CTA system becomes less effective. This happens because the valve events occur more frequently, reduc­ing the time available to move the oil. Con­versely, OPA systems work better as oil pres­sure increases and are better at high rpm. So there’s not much of a peak power gain from a CTA system; it improves performance and efficiency in other areas of the rev range. Also, CTA cam phasing is at the mercy of the natural oscillations of those forces on the camshaft. Valve openings and closings in an inline-six are spaced too closely for the sys­tem to work well. But a V-6 (or inline-three) is perfectly suited because there isn’t as much overlap between each valve event. The system also works on V-8 engines. CTA variable valve timing debuted on Ford’s 3.0-liter Duratec V-6, beginning with the 2009 Escape and the 2010 Fusion. The 3.7-liter V-6 in the Mustang uses BorgWar­ner’s system, too, as do the 2011 Edge and Lincoln MKX. You can also find it on the Mustang’s 5.0-liter V-8 as well as the V-8 engines used in Jaguar and Land Rover vehi­cles. These engines’ efficiencies show the vir­tues of the CTA system." http://wn.com/borgwarner_morse_tec_cam_torque_actuated_cta_variable_camshaft_timing_technology CTA Ti VCT

Pg 131 of owner's manual: REMOTE START (If Equipped) The remote start feature allows you to pre-condition the interior of your vehicle. The climate control system works to achieve comfort according to your previous settings. Note: You cannot adjust the system during remote start operation. Turn the ignition on to return the system to its previous settings. You can now make adjustments normally, but you need to turn certain vehicle-dependent features back on, such as: • Heated seats. • Cooled seats. • Heated steering wheel. • Heated mirrors. • Heated rear window. You can adjust the default remote start settings using the information display controls. See Information Displays (page 100 (actual reference pg 103/108)).

Were these OEM Ford/Motorcraft assemblies? They now have a 2 yr/unlimited mileage warranty on parts, so hope that helps.

Wow!

Watermelon smoothies for everyone!!! J/K. See ya soon.

Good idea, but since the IPC has to be programmed to your vehicle to work, not sure if there is a trim-level limitation. My '07's lighting is pretty bright at night, have to keep it turned down a bit to make it "bearable". Are you sure it's not just the dimmer switch that's having a problem?

No, the two sensors are different. Output shaft sensor MOTORCRAFT DY-1221 AA5Z-7H103-B Turbine speed sensor Motorcraft DY-1241 AA5Z-7M101-B I would call on Benny at Levittown to confirm, but these seem to be the current part numbers.

Or you could use it as an excuse to adopt a "built Ford TOUGH" look, driving around without bumper cover/front grille

By "repair hole" you mean a pit like the quick lube places (Jiffy Lube, Grease Monkey, etc.)? Yeah, that'd work fine. As to why the sensors fail, no idea. Though frankly, I'd rather replace sensors than power/drivetrains. In time/money terms these days, the same thing? Who knows what's better. I'd suspect (no basis to make this statement) that regular trans fluid changes (36K miles or max of 60K miles) would help keep the sensors working. Electronics are very sensitive to contamination, and probably what is happening here.

Bet the paint's jealous of the sheen

Happy Labor Day, mac! Time to sit back and finally enjoy a few brewski's

Slightly edited PDF of the images above How to Remove Front Bumper Cover on a 2015 Ford Edge.pdf

Well, that IS an odd one! No way to reverse the wiring/polarity then?

As long as you have a lift available (or 4 jackstands) to raise & keep the Edge level, you can DIY.

Yup, classic symptoms. Get them replaced, and keep on rolling! Good time to do trans fluid, if it needs servicing.

These sounds can be hard to pinpoint. Check to make sure seat tracks are bolted down properly, bolts/nuts are not spinning freely. Check underneath car to see if any of the fuel/brake lines have come loose, or the shield for the EVAP system components has come loose/become damaged. Check for play in the driveshaft support bearings.