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Welcome to the forum, Pro Ford! How long have you had your 2008 Edge? Owned/own other Ford rides?

Welcome to the community, Ron, glad to have you & your '10 Edge here! Hope it is not suffering from any major issues, and if a search does not turn up answers to your questions, feel free to ask!

Maybe it went to a secret lab that tests for anti-aging properties ...

Hard to tell. If the redesigned valve cover from the SHO has had an impact on the production valve covers of the 2015 Edge, it should bode well for the PCV system in the Sport. For the 3.5 NA engine, you can use a catchcan, no idea how much it is needed. Just like on the DI motor, you would run a "clean"side collector as well as a "dirty"/PCV-valve-side collector into the catchcan (preferably with builtin drain arrangement), which would be mounted in a cool location, same as you would for a Cold Air Intake, to maximize oil vapor condensation/collection. You could also take off the fresh air tube that runs from the intake to the bank 2/front valve cover and put a breather on there. The "cleanside" is usally 5% of the problem, the "dirtyside" 95%. On my 2007, I have found the throttle body and intake piping to be pretty dry/oilfree, FYI.

Yeah, that's what the SE & SELs used to come with standard, at least in the 2007-10.

I would venture to say it's the high pressure fuel pump and/or injectors making that sound, but it's not quite like that. Here's what I mean: https://youtu.be/PuotDTQmZCY?t=6m34s Sounds like a pulley/belt issue to me most likely.

Seems like the only thing you didn't mention is the plug gap, which as autom8r said, might be too large now. And it takes more than an hour for FI cleaners to work. It takes at least a tankful in a "mild" situation, to several tankfuls in a "bad" situation. Try to use top tier fuel during this process, so that the cleaner is completely devoted to improving the fuel system/engine instead of fighting lower grade gasoline deficiencies.

The catch can question is rather elusive. It seems to be more dependent on which variant of the 3.5 EB you are referring to. The F150 variant setup seems to need the catch can far more than the SHO/Flex/XSport variant, at least after initial breakin is over. With the redesign of the transverse engine's bank 1 valve cover, the problem seems to have been ameliorated to a large extent. ONE of the theories out there is that it is actually the compressor seals on the Borg Warner turbos on the F150 are weaker than those on the Garrett turbos on the transverse variant. To see if you need a catch can, you can check: a] the MAP sensors for oil accumulation b] the intake tract for pooling oil c] the intercooler for pooled oil/fuel/crud

Unfortunately, the free links for the service manuals have been pulled. You CAN get a PDF of the manual off EBay for under $10 though. http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-EDGE-2006-2007-2008-2009-2010-FACTORY-REPAIR-SERVICE-WORKSHOP-MANUAL-/271919974145

That foam filter is definitely not OEM. May be just a DIY thing someone put it there. Does it have a frame around it or is it just foam? I'd remove it and put in a cabin filter made for the Edge. They are pleated, and some are additionally charcoal impregnated for odor control.

This is the fan module plug? Surprising it caused all 3 codes.

Possible that there is debris stuck in the fan causing the problem, or that the fan/motor is now in need of replacement. Was there a cabin air filter atop it at all (screen or an actual filter)? A new cabin air filter is recommended anyway. No clue on the radio issue. Was your sub grounded properly? Any noise from the system, are the volumes as expected? Tried disconnecting/powering off the sub to check? Sometimes (probably not in this case) all types of electrical issues crop up when the battery is on its' last legs. So I'd have it checked (with a modern instrument), check all the terminals, grounds/connections to the battery. I have had times when after servicing or electronics installation, the cables have worked loose and had to be re-tightened.

Congrats, Nick!!! Nice lookin' Sport Subtracting the wheels on this one?

Found this article for the F150s, may apply to the Edge also: http://www.fordf150.net/howto/drl.php Need to program the SJB to work. From this link: "This can only be done at a dealer ,,, they have the software to access the your cars computers ,,,,, there should be a section called programable parameters that they will have to go to ,,, and there they will find a section called lighting ,,,,,, then under that they will find a option for turning the DRL on or off (Activate Daytime Running Lamps, for example)" This is what the FSM says: Daytime Running Lamps (DRL) Special Tool(s) Vehicle Communication Module (VCM) and Integrated Diagnostic System (IDS) software with appropriate hardware, or equivalent scan tool Principles of Operation NOTE: When installing a new smart junction box (SJB), it must be configured for this feature, if originally equipped. Refer to Section 418-01 . The SJB controls the DRL by using various inputs to determine whether or not the DRL should be illuminated. These inputs include: Ignition switch position Headlamp switch position Headlamps on or off Transmission gear selection Inspection and Verification Verify the customer concern by operating the daytime running lamps (DRL) following these steps: Place the ignition switch in the RUN position. Place the headlamp switch in the OFF position. Place the transmission in any gear other than PARK (P). If the DRL does not operate, make sure the SJB is configured for DRL before proceeding to the next step. Carry out the continuous and on-demand self tests for the SJB. If any DTCs are retrieved related to the concern, refer to Section 419-10 . If no DTCs are retrieved, go to the next step. Verify the low beam operation. Place the headlamp switch in the HEADLAMPS ON position. If the low beams do not operate correctly, refer to Headlamps in this section. If the low beams operate correctly and the DRL operation is incorrect, proceed to the next step. Check the SJB inputs. Monitor the ignition switch, the headlamp switch input PIDs and the transmission gear status PIDs. If the ignition switch PIDs do not agree with the ignition switch position, refer to Section 211-05 . If the transmission gear status PIDs do not agree with the gear selector lever position, refer to Section 307-01 . If the headlamp switch PIDs do not agree with the headlamp switch position, refer to Headlamps in this section. If the PIDs indicate correct ignition, headlamp switch and transmission gear status, install a new SJB. Refer to Section 419-10 . Test the system for normal operation.

Sorry you have to go through this, hopefully the wait won't be as long now as at the beginning of this saga! My primary suggestion: Get a case number for the incident. Post 4 more posts here to get PM privileges. Then PM FordService (Tricia) with vehicle & situation details to get the ball rolling. They will help you in which way they can, possibly a different rental, and may even be able to expedite the replacement tank! Do you have rental coverage from your insurance company? In case you do end up having to rent an SUV, worst case scenario, maybe insurance + dealer can cover the cost?

Wow, you should be in the pros, wlepse! J/K! I have not had this particular misfortune, thankfully. Though the FSM does note that if the rear view mirror is incorrectly dismounted, you can crack the windshield. So it's pretty easy to believe your experience!

Have the dealer clean out: A] Cabin filter B] Condensor (in front of the radiator) C] Windshield cowl area D] Condensation tube (accessible joint should be under carpet on driver side of center console kick panel) - blow out with air E] Evaporator unit (behind the dash) If that doesn't do it, then look to possibly needing to recharge the system. This should all honestly be on Ford's/dealer's dime, IMHO.

I have Bosch wipers as well. Key though is to keep the edge of the blade clean. So much debris these days from construction/repairs around here, there's something or the other gets caught that would scratch the glass if left on there.

Probably referring to that same subframe adjustment issue that was discussed earlier in the thread.

Do these fit the 2007-10 EdgeMKX or the 2011+ Edge/MKX? The center bores are different.

Very disjointed codes! Which brand of fan did you have put in? We have already had one report of a TYC fan causing problems. Most likely the issues are from connectors not making proper contact, or fuses not being fully seated/in the wrong slots, etc. The P1000 can easily cascade from the P0060 code. There shouldn't have been any oxygen sensor involvement in the fan replacement, except possibly the wires getting nicked while the vehicle is on a lift for service, for example.

Should just run over your bike Does Mobil gas have Techron in it? Rear wiper blade on the list?

Any weight difference? OEM bars tend to be hollow compared to aftermarket. Though of course materials difference could make weight irrelevant And there is no data on torsional rigidity so road feel is all you can go by.

The procedure for checking trans fluid is exactly as specified in the owner's manual. I have copied a portion of the manual here. Basically, the fluid should be pinkish red, and smell like new, not like varnish or burnt etc. The level should be between the hashmarks on the dipstick. It can be a bit hard to read, so proper lighting is a must when you do this. 2013 Edge Owners Manual_Transmission Fluid Check.pdf I asked about the A/C because the compressor will cycle on/off after an initial startup period, and under heavy acceleration. Might make a sound as it does so, though not a hum usually. More of a "whoosh" or "gurgle". The blend door may be moving for a short period also, especially if you have the dual climate controls (not manual A/C). The fan motor can make a whirring noise as it slows down.

Hey, Jared, got a question for you, you still around?