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So sorry you had the experience you did, Idahoser! A few other members on this forum have reported similar issues with water pump failure. Modern engine packaging can be REALLY expensive if something should fail. Thanks for the headsup. Hope your "new" engine serves you well.

But ... you are not from Chicago/Philly, are you?

Bye Bye, Fingerprints

Very. Short. Lifetime. Sorry to hear, hope they take care of you.

Any documentation as to this fact? Or is it "privileged" information?

There are a few people I know who have had the grilles professionally painted to match the color scheme, but that is obviously not cheap. Plastidip is the "easiest" and fairly durable way to go. You could also wrap the grille, but much more work on an MKX than on an Edge.

There MAY be some truth to what the dealer said, if indeed grease has slung out everywhere as described. The smell would be there whenever the engine/components get warmed up enough (not sure what temp that would be), but should be constant after that, not intermittent. The only unrelated part I see directly attached to the CV joint is the antilock brake sensor indicator ring. If the grease did get into the alternator, and now provides an alternate path for current or intermittent short, any number of gremlins could ensue. No clue on what that would be though. So I would still have the PTU (and power steering and RDU) looked at to determine if any signs of leaks are present, before any work is done. It still may be that the CV joint boot needs to be replaced. Second opinion time?

Don't know about the 2015, but general practice is to put in breakin oil (usually a straight weight oil like SAE 30) at the factory, and when you change it out, change with the oil spec'd in the owner's guide, in this case, 5W30 synblend or full synthetic. EDIT: This thread may shed some light albeit for the F150: http://www.fordf150.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=70218 EDIT: the OG doesn't say anything either. All it talks about is this: BREAKING-IN You need to break in new tires for approximately 300 miles (480 kilometers). During this time, your vehicle may exhibit some unusual driving characteristics. Avoid driving too fast during the first 1000 miles (1600 kilometers). Vary your speed frequently and change up through the gears early. Do not labor the engine. Do not tow during the first 1000 miles (1600 kilometers). Note: In order to allow a break-in period for your vehicle, you may not be able to create a Vehicle Health Report until your vehicle odometer has reached 200 miles. Calculating Fuel Economy Do not measure fuel economy during the first 1000 miles (1600 kilometers) of driving (this is your engine’s break-in period); a more accurate measurement is obtained after 2000 miles - 3000 miles (3200 kilometers - 4800 kilometers).

As long as it's not OOP, it's ok

Any before/after pics?

Keep FordService in the loop on this one, especially if the incident has been assigned a case number.

You have AWD, likely the PTU has a vent leak and/or is running low on fluid. quite common on these units. I'd take it in and have the PTU flushed/refilled at a minimum (if the old fluid does not have a lot of metal shavings in it), or replaced entirely. Also sounds like shorted wiring, bad ground(s), possibly a fried BCM.

The blend door/actuator is probably ok then. The sound will definitely be heard when the system is turned on, sometimes even when it's off. The usual way to check the heater core is to turn on the heat and check the temperature of the hoses at the firewall after the engine reaches operating temperature. If the outlet side is not hot, there's either an air pocket in the heater core or the core is plugged. You can check the hoses by hand, or by using an infrared "gun" thermometer. These hoses are vertically stacked, at least according to the diagram in my 2007 FSM.

Exciting! Looking forward to your review of the install & results!

Enjoy the cold air

Manual or automatic climate control? Was the Edge at normal operating temperature? Mileage? Check the cabin air filter, if it's never been changed, it is probably blocked. Radiator fans working ok? Check coolant level in the reservoir/degas bottle. Is it FULL and in good condition? If you had a ratcheting or clicking sound coming from the dash, the blend door/actuator is suspect. If the temperature of the heater hose going into the cabin from the engine bay is not hot, you may need to flush the cooling system. The heater core may also be blocked by debris caused by faulty design. Just to start you off.

HTH. 2015 Ford Edge 2.7EB Oil & Filter Change x.PDF

Still worth a look. These dates are not absolute fact, and it is up to the servicing technician/dealership to determine a case for coverage. If you can't get it covered right away, keep your receipts & appeal to Ford directly.

Rule #1: Don't look unless you start having problems. You will definitely be looking at a lot more work than you think. J/K! Did you get a new tire? Doesn't look repairable.

If so, Ford should be sending out a notice accordingly.

Slotted will be fine, street/autoX/track. Cross-drilled are fine for the street, but can't call it a performance feature really at most affordable price points. Great for looks, as long as you keep the holes rust-free. Some of the best and strongest setups are on blank rotors with high performance pads suitable to your driving style.

Nearly invisible indeed, good2Bking! Must really like spending time at the dealership, Smitty Hope for a good, long repair-free stretch once you get it back today!

Welcome to the community, Tracy, glad to have ya here! If a search doesn't turn up the info you need, asking usually will, so fire away Pics of your projects/rides are also very welcome. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/1730-post-pics-of-your-other-rides

Glad you made it out ok from this situation! p2111 is a throttle body actuator error code. Bad/low battery MIGHT cause it, but have not had anecdotal evidence for that. May be looking at a replacement situation soon. Did anyone besides you document the situation? http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=313953 http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/2005-2010-mustang-gt-tech/287511-wrench-light-codes-p2111-p2104.html http://highlanderclub.ru/files/manual/04/21j6674h/cip2111.pdf Toyota Highlander OBDII Code p2111.pdf https://www.motorcraftservice.com/vdirs/diagnostics/pdf/OBDSM1105.pdfpg 134 With the installation of a new battery on the 2011+, it is necessary to also reset the Battery Management System (BMS) so that the Edge knows to learn the new battery & charge it correctly. A dealer or a shop with IDS access should be able to do this.

Welcome to Edge ownership, many miles of happy journeys to follow AWD/FWD?