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Thank them for the good work, then firmly request the cover replacement

Use the pictures in this very helpful guide: http://www.paulstravelpictures.com/Ford-Edge-HVAC-Cabin-Air-Filter-Cleaning-Guide/index.html

Since you have already done most of the work getting to one sensor, why not do the other one at the same time? Simple practicality. Nothing to think about, just do it

Congrats & welcome! Many happy miles of smiles to come

Congrats on snagging the '11 Sport, and welcome aboard!

Welcome to the community, and congrats on the '11 SEL, is a beaut

You guys in AZ eat windshields for breakfast, lunch, and dinner!

The FWD bars MAY fit the AWD, can't tell without a direct comparo. The FWD and AWD both do have rear sway bars from factory, though.

Nice work & writeup

The difference is removing & reinstalling a drain plug vs getting into the lines, which one is which, etc. Simplicity, and probability of error-free process is what I am after for the average, everyday DIY mechanic. BUT if the work is done by a trusted professional, or you are mechanically inclined, you could definitely go with the fluid cooler lines method.

No need, but a minute or so wouldn't hurt IMHO. Also, do not shut the engine off right after coming off a hard run. Always allow a little time for coolant temps (and hence oil temps) to drop beforehand. So a couple of minutes of conservative driving before your intended shutoff point is a good idea. The exhaust manifolds are watercooled, but not the turbos, apparently. On the 3.5L EB, the turbos are both water- & oil-cooled. From the 3.5L EB's media kit: Reliable to the Extreme Turbochargers operate at high speed – up to 170,000 rpm – and under intense temperatures of up to 950 degrees Celsius (1,740 degrees Fahrenheit). Some previous-generation turbos were reputed to suffer from oil coking, in which they would bake their lubricating oil. Because oil coking can lead to premature turbocharger bearing failures, Ford’s advanced engine engineers specified the use of new, water-cooled turbochargers to combat this problem. “During normal turbo operation, the turbo receives most of its bearing cooling through oil,” said Keith Plagens, turbo system engineer. “After shut down, the problems with turbos in the past were you would get coking in the center bearing. Oil would collect in the bearings, the heat soaks in and the oil would start to coke on the side and foul the bearing. Water cooling – used in the EcoBoost engine – eliminates that worry.” The new EcoBoost V-6 uses two Honeywell GT15 water-cooled turbos. “The EcoBoost engine uses passive thermal siphoning for water cooling,” Plagens explains. “During normal engine operation, the engine’s water pump cycles coolant through the center bearing. After engine shutdown renders the water pump inactive, the coolant flow reverses. Coolant heats up and flows away from the turbocharger water jacket, pulling fresh, cool coolant in behind. This highly effective coolant process is completely silent to the driver, continuing to protect the turbocharger.”

Won't help tho with the carbon buildup on the back side of the intake valves, because it doesn't reach there. BUT you can certainly keep the fuel system very clean with those products. The fuel that gets into the oil (fuel dilution) will not be carrying crud with it, which is good. Much of the problem though is in the PCV system. If you get a "leaky" unit, that will accelerate the buildup. So my interim recommendation is to do an intake/induction system cleaning periodically (say yearly or every 12,000 miles) shortly before the oil & filter change, and if you want to do the fuel system cleaning, that is a bonus! Monitor any oil buildup in the intake piping and intercooler. If those stay dry, that's what you want. Also use a low volatility full synthetic engine oil to further decrease chances of anything coming out of the PCV system.

Hasn't been driven much, but I'd advise an initial drain-and-fill on the trans fluid. 3 times drain&fill will get close to all new fluid in the transmission. That should keep it working well. I do not advise a flush at this time, because of a] low mileage over the years, and b] likelihood of driving having been short trip/stop'n'go. The trans really hasn't been as much of a problem. The real problem has been in the AWD Edge/MKX - the PTU giving out. Since your Edge is FWD, you should be quite safe. And, welcome to the forum!

Looks intimidating, really is not. There are great writeups on how to do this. And yes, you have to pull the upper intake manifold. Take it slow, and you'll be done before you know it! Good time to clean the throttle body & change air filter/PCV valve while in there. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/8724-sparkplug-replacement-job-info-with-photos/ Put in Motorcraft SP411's. No need to go fancy. I'd advise checking, but not adjusting gap on the new ones if not too far off the middle of the range in the owner's guide (0.051-0.057 I believe). Too easy to damage the center electrode. If you have a spark plug gapping pliers, that would work great.

Listing on EBay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Steeda-2008-Ford-Edge-Rear-Swaybar-for-2-wheel-drive-only-PN-555-1059-/181874819516 OEM part numbers in this thread for 07-10: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/4319-larger-rear-sway-bar/

Congrats , and welcome to the forum! What color did you pick? Engine? AWD/FWD?

Yeah, but it's a 17 inch touchscreen (!!!). AND Ford has put back in some of those "missing" hard buttons. SO THERE! CR def makes for amusing reading, no doubt.

I hear Nokian Hakkapeliitta tires are available in Canada and work well for dedicated setups.

A really "together" look for the Edge. Well done!

Here's a little review of the TurboSmart product on an ecoStang: http://www.stangtv.com/?p=457682

Now we need to get in on that group buy more than ever, save a few bucks

Pretty sure with LME (& Unleashed) tunes, longevity is not an issue. These guys work hard to provide you kink-free tunes that won't compromise your vehicles. The tunes can be made more extreme, but by sacrificing daily driveability & shortening the lifespan. I expect Corey will see, along with shifting, his mpg stay the same or even improve!

I am not seeing anything helpful in the FSM, may need to deepdive the web for ideas. I will suggest putting in a new battery in the Edge if you haven't had it done in the last 2-3 years, then going from there. If you can have it tested by a modern load tester (digital), that would be a good idea as well. Bad/weak batteries can cause all kind of weird electrical maladies.

Very nice! Any dyno charts/videos? Make sure you have an open road to test out the "Superman" tune EDIT: Based on the OEM specs, these are the hp/tq ratings at the crank - Horsepower (hp @ rpm) 315 @ 4,750 (using 93-octane fuel) Torque (lb.-ft. @ rpm) 350 @ 2,750 Assuming 20% driveline loss, you should see about 252 awhp/280 awtq stock on the dyno, if it is a Dynojet. Mustang & other brands behave a bit differently.

Sounds like there is either electrical interference or a grounding problem, possibly. Any recent electrical work done to the Edge? Battery, alternator, radio, etc.? Any non-OEM equipment that is always installed, for example, into the power outlets? Did you get the second key from a locksmith/dealer (I assume it has the lock/unlock/panic buttons on it also)?