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If there is a problem with the key/fob, you will likely get a message in the instrument cluster about PATS not being happy with something. Check the car battery terminals to make sure they are tight, have no corrosion, etc. Then check to make sure the stoplamp switch is working (press the brake pedal, the stoplamps should light up). A short is not an easy task to diagnose. You have to work your way through the wire looms, where depends on what you are looking for.

Could be a dying car battery or a fob battery. Have you recently replaced those items? There is always the fun possibility of a short, but we can cross that bridge when ...

Mind posting what PIDs are available for the '15 Edge? TIA.

Swap the #4 coil with #5 or #6, see if the misfire moves with it. With any luck it may be just a coil. Could be a spark plug issue as well if they are original to your Edge. If the coil is not it, then pull the plugs and check the gaps. Try Techron Concentrate or BG 44K, two of the top cleaners in the industry. Proceed straight to GO with these cleaners, don't bother with anything else.

The battery is integral to the sensor, so you'd have to replace the sensor. A tire shop can tell you if they expect the sensors have enough life left. But the typical life of the battery is between 5-7 years. I didn't have them replaced on my Edge when I recently had the tires done, will see what happens At worst they will have to dismount the tires and put in new sensors!

Not always possible Ideal, but ... It is a useful feature the Edge would benefit from, pure & simple. All that work done to reduce breakin time, reduce startup wear, etc. and yet, a relatively simple feature like this does not get implemented. They could also come up with a thermally insulated degas bottle for the Edge, much like the hybrids, to help speed warmup time.

The longer it takes the engine to warm up, the more fuel economy suffers, doesn't it? Those quick trips around town become very fuel-expensive.

With ambient temps around 50F, it took about 10 minutes to warm up to 185F this morning. Not unusual at all. If ambient were 70F or above, you could cut the time in half. Stock thermostat.

Here's how one Vette guy keeps his brake rotors shiny, using non-ceramic pads: http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c5-general/1207943-cleaning-up-bear-eradispeed-rotors-2.html#post1553147638 http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c5-general/1207943-cleaning-up-bear-eradispeed-rotors-3.html#post1553180010

Know of any comparisons between AWD with snow tires and FWD with snow tires, akirby? Having a heck of a time finding that comparo. It's all AWD with allseasons vs FWD with snow tires out there.

As macbwt says, get the high carbon rotors from Autozone, right mac? Also wash down the cooled rotors regularly (no high pressure water, just a garden hose or a bottle sprayer) to get any salt off the surface. Better yet would be to periodically take the wheels off and wipe down the rotors with some WD-40 or penetrating oil CFC-free brake cleaner on a paper towel. Be careful, drive gently for a short while after until any residue has evaporated. Since they are contact areas, not much more you can do. You CAN paint the rotor hats with high temperature paint to prevent them from rusting. Or get rotors with zinc plating to slow down rust from forming on the hats and vanes (again, no good for contact surfaces).

Man, I'm glad everyone made it out OK. That could have been one nasty situation. May the heavens keep smiling on you.

I am still rooting around in a 2007 SEL, when 3.5 was the only choice

Comparative specs 2015 Ford Edge Brochure_Specs only_2.pdf

They should come off fairly easy, they snap into place. maybe try wearing gloves with grips and pulling on them? If you lose/break one, it's a couple of bucks from the dealer.

It is exactly that simple. Wiper Pivot Arm — FrontRemoval and Installation Remove the front wiper pivot arm caps. Remove the front wiper pivot arm retaining nuts and the front wiper pivot arms. To install, tighten to 30 Nm (22 lb-ft). To install, reverse the removal procedure. To adjust the windshield wiper pivot arms, refer to Wiper Blade and Pivot Arm Adjustment — Windshield in this section.

The legendary 442! When value was measured in smiles, not miles. The 3.5 is "old tech", it's not Direct Injected, it's not turbocharged, etc. But it IS historically reliable. If you keep your foot out of it, it will return pretty decent mileage as well. I wish they had put in Active Grille Shutters with the 3.5, but it appears not. That would have shortened warmup time for shorter trips. The only problem I have with the 2015 version is that the Edge can cut off quite suddenly (has happened to at least 2 forum members), and am not sure there is a confirmed resolution for that as of yet.

Welcome to the forum, Matty G, sorry to hear about the Fusion, glad it's still driveable! Hopefully you will find an Edge close to home but lo mileage units may be a bit far away. Look to the south (of Virginia) to get something from the rustfree belt.

I know you are happy with the Monroes, but in case you ever had occasion to try AMS 6120 struts: http://www.amsautomotive.com/lift-supports I will be trying out the Sachs product next.

Are you using jacks/jackstands, or can you access the drain plug without them? Maybe jack up the rear to slow down the gusher, and once most is drained out, lower to the ground to let the rest drain out. Klunky for sure. Too bad you can't fit a transmission funnel like they use in the pits.

Same key was working before? Nothing broke off? Did you have any problems with the shifter by any chance? Maybe it's locking out the ignition key? Or else (highly unlikely) you need to change out the ignition cylinder.

From Autoweek: "Other notable features include a plastic intake manifold and oil pan (for weight savings), a structural aluminum front cover (for NVH), a variable displacement oil pump (yielding reduced friction and better fuel economy), and a cartridge-only oil filter, right on top of the engine and accessible from above." Still looking for the logic. In the meantime, here is some info from the F150 forum on the oil/filter change: http://www.f150forum.com/f118/2-7-l-oil-change-299089/ Wait at least 15-20 minutes to allow oil to drain from filter, per Ford: http://www.f150forum.com/f118/2-7-l-oil-change-299089/#post4140900 The longer drainback interval is important especially in light of the start-stop technology. BTW, check & keep those underbody heat shields tight. Why? "A missing underbody heat shield can lead to degradation or melting of the fuel or vapor lines, increasing the risk of a fire." http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/TSb/DownloadPdf?id=190136

Good luck!

And then it wouldn't interfere with suspension?

And another one: