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Welcome!

yes they are siblings/twins.

do you have a link to the product you installed? what wire you connected to etc (pics would be nice )?

change plugs, clean maf sensor and tb at the very least. i assume the fluids have been serviced recently? check battery health. not only voltage but cca's, with something like a solar ba9 or at an auto parts store. run BG 44K fuel injector thru at least 1 preferably 2 tanks of fuel. these are the simplest measures to take.

you do have to reprogram the atc's strategy code into the system so the pcm/awd module make the correct decisions. much like the solenoid body in the transmission.

you have mentioned codes, but not the actual symptoms. some people mistake the cam sensors for the phasers, because ford calls them the exact same thing. so the problem could be the sensors OR behind the main/timing cover. check ford.oemdtc.com for these codes and any tsbs or recalls associated with them. doesn't matter what model. i have found this to be a valuable approach, because it enlightens you to the ford way of thinking/designing/diagnosing things. you can search the web of course, i recommend justanswer.com as a good site for all kinds of great info.

new RDUs are expensive, compared to the PTU. The PTU is a simple gearbox, the RDU is like a mini transmission in that it has lubricated clutches and the ability to vary power to the wheels on demand. for a long time now, we have been trumpeting the need for regular fluid changes on these units, tho Ford only gives such guidance for police vehicles and vehicles in hot climates. basically every 2/30K or less for the PTU, every 4/60K or less for the RDU. shouldn't swear off Ford just for this. it is a well known problem, but can be easily managed. if you are thinking of doing the work yourself, you surely have the capability to refresh these fluids!

yup that is the conumdrum, marketing vs reality lol.

My reliable source on this is MACT (you can see his videos on YT under the MACTFORDEDGE channel). He has been running Valvoline fluid for the longest time. But yes, you should go with what you feel comfortable. New fluid is the important takeaway here.

welcome!

best of luck!

faster, faster! get well soon, amigo.

not asking anyone to take what i say on blind faith, but instead to give you an avenue of research to explore. i have done my research, some time ago, just didn't want to get into debates over it. yes, i talked with brian and heard his explanation. yes, i tried it in our 2010 Fusion Sport and noticed the additional timing it gained (averaging 3 degrees). have had a few SHO owners try it out as well, especially those in California who don't have 93 fuel. it works, as far as boosting "octane". the cleaning part, i don't have anecdotal evidence to share, and i said so above. you guys with boosted engines have vehicles to experiment on and report back, if you so choose.

Change the fluid completely, and use Valvoline Maxlife MultiVehicle ATF (red jug). It is basically Mercon LV viscosity but perfectly good in Mercon V situations. If it works for brake fluid, why not trans fluid

Congrats!

Welcome, nice ride!

that is the conventional wisdom yes. call up Brian and have a chat. i am going by what he told me, i have yet to own a DI engined vehicle.

ok if you say so lol.

May be a problem with the Front Lighting Module, which controls light behavior (basically the headlamp switch panel), or even the stalk. Normal Operation The Front Lighting Control Module (FLM) sends a message over the High Speed Controller Area Network (HS-CAN) to the BCM to indicate the headlamp switch position. When the BCM receives input indicating a request to turn the headlamps on, the BCM provides voltage to the LH and RH low beams. If the BCM receives a message from the FLM indicating a fault with the headlamp switch or the BCM loses communication with the FLM , the BCM defaults all the exterior lamps on. On vehicles with High Intensity Discharge (HID) headlamps, the ballasts are supplied volage at all times from the Battery Junction Box (BJB). When the ballasts receive a voltage signal from the BCM , the ballasts provide high voltage to the HID bulbs. DTC B1D00:15 (Left Low Beam: Circuit Short To Battery or Open) — a DTC that sets when the BCM detects a short to voltage from the LH low beam output circuit. DTC B1D01:15 (Right Low Beam: Circuit Short To Battery or Open) — a DTC that sets when the BCM detects a short to voltage from the RH low beam output circuit. This pinpoint test is intended to diagnose the following: Wiring, terminals or connectors Headlamp switch (integrated into the FLM ) Headlamp assembly BCM

@Xtra you would be interested in this if you like octane boosters. Brian says it helps keep the back of the intake valves clean too. http://bndautomotive.com/aces-formulas/aces-iv-gasoline-formula/

the owner's manual shows the bulbs are LED, not sure if they are owner swappable or not. pg 289 https://drive.google.com/file/d/1sI9Tfc5bikb4ea6mXKk8u4WcABlJE_rh/view?usp=sharing

under 13.5V on a gen 1 is abnormal, per the manual.

Very odd that they test the alternator and charger but not check the wiring and the terminals. If the voltage is confirmed 14.4+ at the alternator, then the problem has to be in excessive resistance somewhere in the circuit. This is basic diagnostics and they should be able to perform them. You can look up videos for yourself on YT. Plenty of reputable channels that put out helpful information. "Voltage Drop" is the search term I normally use.

check lug nut torque. check wheel integrity. rotate tire to rear and reevaluate.

Hello Hello!