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Jasper-rebuilt or brand new?

Might wanna doublecheck the clamp on the brake booster hose. Good idea to disconnect the battery (30 min or more), then let PCM relearn.

Definitely possible, worth looking into.

I think the hardest part really was not recognizing all the places things are tethered together with bolts, wiring, & tubing. Moving the EVAP valve helped a bunch with adding room for the brake booster tube & throttle body portion.

Torque Pro on Android and ForScan on Apple/Android are the most popular software titles out there for low-cost scantools. If your OBD adapter is wifi, best to stick with Torque Pro. ForScan can be rather demanding with refresh rates (it is internally set, you cannot change it). Bluetooth should work with either OK. If you decide on Torque Pro, you will have to see what PIDs (process identifiers) are available to you. Shouldn't need custom PIDs for O2 sensors/FRP. Do you know what FRP you are supposed to be seeing? Different MYs might have different limits, depending on the HPFP employed. I believe we have had at least one instance of fuel pump issues with the 2.0EB on this forum. If you suspect that is the culprit, here are some TSBs related to the fuel system: MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP (MIL) - DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE (DTC) P0456 TSBID: 179345 Mfg Num: 13-2-2 Issue Date: 2013-02-07 2.0L/FWD - FUEL GAUGE WILL NOT READ FULL - SLOW FILL - BUILT ON OR BEFORE 10/1/2012 TSBID: 180526 Mfg Num: 13-5-10 Issue Date: 2013-05-09 CERTAIN 2012 MODEL YEAR EDGE VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH 2.0L ENGINE - FUEL LINE INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT TSBID: 182385 Mfg Num: 12S40-S1 Issue Date: 2012-09-01 2.0L GTDI ENGINE-DRIVABILITY CONCERNS-DTCS P0128/P0106 OR P0236 TSBID: 182451 Mfg Num: 13-9-8 Issue Date: 2013-09-09 The fuel line pulse damper metal housing may crack as a result of an improper manufacturing process. A cracked fuel line pulse damper housing may result in a combination of fuel odor, weepage, or a continuous leak while the fuel system is pressurized. TSBID: 182752 Mfg Num: 14V002000 Issue Date: 2014-01-06 EASY FUEL CAPLESS-CONCERNS WITH FUEL NOZZLE INSERTION OR REMOVAL TSBID: 186074 Mfg Num: 14-0132 Issue Date: 2014-07-22

Hmmm. The brochure isn't very helpful, it only says 21" Premium Tarnished Dark-Painted Aluminum. Duplicolor should have some good matches though, likely have to clearcoat after. EDIT: A body shop or the dealer should have access to the paint codes for wheels. An example of codes for the F150: http://www.f150forum.com/f38/2009-paint-code-information-master-list-166904/#post1946666 Maybe this link will help, see if any of the codes match: http://www.paintscratch.com/touch_up_paint/Ford/2015-Ford-Edge.html

And they wonder why people wanna DIY ...

Sorry to hear, this must be SO frustrating! You need to buy Mr Murphy a few drinks, it seems like, been ignoring him ... Whereabouts was the Edge hit? Front/rear/? The "battery" problem could be many things, unfortunately: A] An actual bad battery, especially if it is original to the Edge (very likely) B] Loose/corroded battery cable terminals (possibly loose from disconnection/reconnection during body work) C] A shorting component like an APIM or shifter D] Bad alternator E] Failing starter F] Shorted wiring (the most annoying issue to fix) Anyways, keep us updated! When the battery is replaced, the Battery Monitoring System needs to be reset so that the PCM knows it's new and learns the new battery's characteristics.

I believe it is an expanded recall, but since the documents are not yet posted, can't say for sure 100%.

Make sure SHOW NOTIFICATIONS is ON (#7 in the list above). That's been a very common fix after the 3.8 upgrade.

Saw this on another site: http://www.autoblog.com/2015/10/28/ford-mustang-edge-lincoln-mkx-recall/

What is the sound like? Whoosh? Hoot? Whine? Grind? Are the "silencers" on the calipers still good2go?

Actually, the difference at 15,000 miles would still be negligible if the V6 + regular is being compared to 2.0EB + premium. $1,833.33 vs $1,900 If you use the V6+ premium, yes, the cost at 15,000 miles would be $2,216.67.

Follow the owner's manual. See if your driving style/conditions meet the NORMAL or SEVEREDUTY definitions, and then use that interval as guide. Or if you don't mind variability, you can use the Intelligent Oil Life Monitor function to tell you when the oil needs changing. Be sure to reset it once the oil change is complete. The servicing shop may or may not do it for you. Pg 455 of the manual: Your vehicle is equipped with the Intelligent Oil-Life Monitor system, which displays a message in the information display at the proper oil change interval. This interval may be up to one year or 10000 miles (16000 kilometers). When the oil change message appears in the information display, it is time for an oil change. Make sure you perform the oil change within two weeks or 500 miles (800 kilometers) of the message appearing. Make sure you reset the Intelligent Oil-Life Monitor after each oil change. See Oil Change Indicator Reset (page 263). If your information display resets prematurely or becomes inoperative, you should perform the oil change interval at six months or 5000 miles (8000 kilometers) from your last oil change. Never exceed one year or 10000 miles (16000 kilometers) between oil change intervals.

Congrats on the new Sport, Picturepro!

The LED unit plugs in just like a halogen bulb. The heatsink is outside the headlight assembly, as is the adapter cord to connect to the appropriate pigtail on the other end (9005/9006/etc). Never been "flashed". I will have to recheck my files, but the light pattern fits the same area as the halogen bulbs. I use separate LED bulbs for high beams, and it is very obvious when I have them on.

Hmm. Should be pretty straightforward removing the pivot arms. Remove the cap and there's a hexagonal bolt that holds down the pivot arm. Remove & presto! To install, tighten to 30 Nm (22 lb-ft). The only tip I know of would be to place a thick towel between the wiper blade and the glass to minimize any force exerted on the windshield.

From the 2007 FSM (hopefully only have to remove the upper panel?): Item Part Number Description 1 020A26 RH cowl side outer panel 2 020A27 LH cowl side outer panel 3 W712648 Upper cowl grille panel screws (4 required) 4 N804837 Upper cowl grille panel scrivet (4 required) 5 02222 RH upper cowl panel 6 02223 LH upper cowl panel 7 17526 Wiper pivot arm assembly bolt (2 required) 8 17508B Wiper pivot arm assembly 9 W707257 Cowl panel extension bolts (6 required) 10 021A37 LH cowl panel extension 11 W707257 RH cowl panel extension 12 W710593 Lower cowl panel bolt (5 required) 13 W702751 Lower cowl panel nut (3 required) 14 W710309 Lower cowl panel-to-front of dash bolt 15 02106 Lower cowl panel Upper and lower cowl grille panel NOTE: The upper cowl panel grille must be removed before the lower cowl panel grille can be removed. Remove the LH and RH wiper pivot arms. For additional information, refer to Section 501-16 .Upper cowl panel grille Remove the RH cowl side outer panel.Remove the LH cowl side outer panel.Remove the 2 scrivets from the RH upper cowl panel grille.Remove the 2 bolts from the RH upper cowl grille panel and remove the RH upper cowl grille panel. To install, tighten to 6 Nm (53 lb-in). Remove the 2 scrivets from the LH upper cowl grille panel.Remove the 2 bolts from the LH upper cowl grille panel and remove the LH upper cowl grille panel. To install, tighten to 6 Nm (53 lb-in). Lower cowl panel grille Remove the wiper arm and wiper pivot shaft assembly. Disconnect the electrical connector. Remove the 2 bolts. To install, tighten to 7 Nm (62 lb-in). Remove the 2 bolts from the upper left lower cowl grille panel extension and remove the panel. To install, tighten to 6 Nm (53 lb-in). Remove the 4 bolts from the upper right lower cowl panel extension and remove the panel. To install, tighten to 6 Nm (53 lb-in). Disconnect the wiring harness from the retainer on the left front of the lower cowl grille panel. Disconnect the electrical connectors from the powertrain control module (PCM). Remove the evaporative purge valve and bracket from the center of the lower cowl panel grille and set aside.Remove the 5 bolts and 3 nuts from inside the lower cowl grille panel. To install, tighten to 9 Nm (80 lb-in). Remove the bolt from the lower cowl panel-to-front of dash. To install, tighten to 20 Nm (15 lb-ft). Remove the lower cowl grille panel and PCM from the vehicle.

Please post the part number if you have it/when you get it. TIA!

I really hope you didn't put the LV fluid in the power steering reservoir. For the 2010: Transmission Fluid: Mercon LV Power Steering Fluid: Mercon V Does the reservoir cap say to put in Mercon LV for power steering, by any chance?

Got them off EBay last year, from a seller named itrendstyle. Don't see them or their product anymore for sale.

Been running LEDs in the headlights for quite some time now. No problems so far.

Is the lumen output per bulb or summed?

If lubing the various componentry didn't fix it, then probably time to take the panel off and look at all the fasteners real closely. A screw could literally have come loose over time, or a plug could have broken off, etc.

My hope that it is a seal is because that can be fixed pretty easily. If the vents are improperly placed however, there is a real problem. May be resolved by sealing the old vents and drilling new ones elsewhere/in another direction. Ford didn't have to design the Edge for submersion, but surely to withstand the rain that landlubbers can expect to get!