WWWPerfA_ZN0W

Looking forward to updates, and good luck!

The blend actuator should be behind the panel cover under the steering wheel. This is how it looks on the 2007: From the 2007 FSM: NOTE: It is not required to install the new LH temperature blend door linkage parts included in the LH temperature blend door actuator service part kit if only the temperature blend door actuator requires replacement and the linkage parts are not broken or binding. LH temperature blend door actuator and linkage Remove the 2 lower steering column opening cover bolts.Detach the lower steering column opening cover.Disconnect the in-vehicle temperature sensor aspirator hose and electrical connector.Position the instrument panel wire harness away from the LH temperature blend door actuator.Remove the 3 LH temperature blend door actuator screws.Disconnect the LH temperature blend door actuator electrical connector.Remove the LH temperature blend door actuator.Manually operate, and inspect the LH temperature blend door linkage for incorrect placement, binding or damage.LH temperature blend door linkage only Detach the 2 retaining tabs and remove the LH temperature blend door linkage.LH temperature blend door actuator and linkage To install, reverse the removal procedure.

So the only error pointed to an intake sensor? Can you post a list if you have it? Or get a code reader and read the codes/have an auto store read them for you for free. Otherwise it's pure guesswork on our part. A MAF Error code would look like this: P0102 Mass Air Flow (MAF) Circuit Low Input Cleaning the throttle body IS important and should be part of the induction service I mentioned. This is what such a service does: It does help smooth things out significantly. Make sure the oil/filter are changed right after (or within 500 miles) the service is done to get out any crud loosened by the service. Afterwards, use a] high quality oil, and b] high quality fuel. A fuel injector cleaner (not just any brand, but Techron or BG for example) in the gas tank at every oil change helps too. Don't want to use the cleaners too often, no sooner than every oil change. I assume the solenoid being referred to is the Variable Camshaft Timing (VCT) Oil Control Solenoid. An important part of the timing system of the engine. Variable Camshaft Timing (VCT) system The VCT system changes intake camshaft timing dependent on engine speed, load and oil temperature. Oil pressure advances and retards camshaft timing to improve low and high speed engine performance, engine idle quality and exhaust emissions. You do have to remove the valve covers to replace the solenoids (1 per bank), and that would be a good time to replace plugs/PCV valve since they'd be fully exposed in the process. Do the valve covers have any leaks? That could be caused by pressurization of the PCV system which could be caused by a sticking PCV valve. Either the Castrol or the Pennzoil you mentioned should work fine, how the engine reacts to each is more important. So if the Edge likes the Pennzoil, stick with that. Objectively, I use the published Product Data Sheets (PDSs) for comparing products, because there are few if any unbiased product comparison tests out there. Amsoil has published a few, but of course, they are in the business of selling the product. Castrol edge w Syntec PDS.pdfPennzoil-Ultra Full Synthetic TDS.pdf http://www.syntheticoilhq.com/comparesyntheticoils.html The NoAck Volatility is one of the important characteristics. The lower the volatility, the less the vapors in the system, the more stable the oil, and the less gunk accumulated in the engine. The key is to base the oil change interval on the FILTER. I hope you are using the Motorcraft filter, it is a very high-quality design. You CAN use the K&N or Mobil 1 full synthetic filters also, I just have no idea how well they would work on the Edge. Use the maintenance schedules in the owner's manual to help you determine the interval (NORMAL for mixed city/highway, or SEVEREDUTY for mostly city/stopngo). 2010 Edge Owner Information 2010 Edge Owner’s Manual Printing 3 (PDF) Scheduled Maintenance Guide Printing 2 (PDF) Warranty Guide Printing 4 (PDF) If anything, if you have replaced the oil/filter regularly and it hasn't tended to become dirty (just darker), I would have the engine oil flushed (such as with BG or AutoRX products), then see if there's still a need for the solenoid replacement. Unless there's a code set in the computer, I can't see the solenoid being "preventive maintenance", but you know what they say about "internet advice" LOL. If I were doing "preventive maintenance" of that type, I'd do the whole shebang: timing chain, timing tensioner, VCT solenoid, water pump, belts, etc. Right now it is probably more important to make sure you have no coolant loss (don't want to have to replace water pump which is behind the timing chain), and that the belts get replaced than have the solenoids replaced.

Welcome to the forum! As long as the catalytic converters are in good shape, you are ahead of the game already. Did the mechanic pull codes from the PCM to see if there might be anything wrong? Many codes do not trip a Check Engine Light. At this mileage, the Edge would benefit from a spark plug and PCV valve change (is DIY-able). Switch to High Mileage oil if available. Clean the MAF sensor (sits in the pipe attached to the air cleaner box) thoroughly with MAF cleaner (not brake cleaner or carb cleaner, etc). Having the ignition system (coil on plugs specifically) checked is also a good idea, don't want a bad PCM frying the coils or vice versa. Not sure what all the shop did, but diagnostics can cost money. The induction services can cost around $150 or so by themselves on the mainland. Hopefully they ran a can of fuel injector cleaner through the gas tank also.

Check with DriveBright/DTBL and vLEDs to see what might be available.

Do you happen to have a part number for that assembly, Scott? TIA.

Are you filling up with regular or premium fuel?

Definitely try changing the key fob batteries. That should be a simple & inexpensive fix. I think the life is generally what 5 years for these coin cells? So this is about the right time ...

Well, at least one thing fixed ...

Original key fobs or have you replaced 1 or more? Original Car Battery? Sometimes the PATS will not allow the engine to start, even though it allows it to crank. Try changing out the battery in the fob(s), and/or the car battery if so. From the FSM: PATS is active only for a few seconds when the vehicle is starting. It is not a PATS concern if the vehicle stalls after it has been running for a minimum of 3 seconds. PATS will not disable a running vehicle. PATS may cause a vehicle no start due to either the fuel injectors or the starter not operating (starter relay does not close) or both. Always check for PATS DTCs from the instrument cluster and DTCs from the PCM when a no-crank or no-start condition exists. A low state of charge (SOC) in the vehicle battery may cause the PATS to allow starter operation, but prevent the fuel injectors from operating.

Low battery (car) would definitely cause this issue, as would a low key fob battery. If the locks operate snappily, I would lean towards key fob. If the locks are slow to open/close, then car.

Unfortunately, yes. We thought the problem had been resolved with the 2011+ makeover, but it continues. So far, we have found that regular PTU fluid flushes are the best preventive measure, get the PTU (and RDU) done every couple of years for best effect. That should keep any problems at bay for a long time.

Did you have the Battery Management System reset with this battery, mac? The computer needs to learn every time a new battery is installed, and this does not happen simply by pulling the neg battery cable. Dealers can do the reset, don't know if service shops can too (I guess if they have IDS they can?).

Congratz on getting this done, never get tired of hearing a success story Well written, nice pix to go with.

Welcome to the community, Kazz, great color choice for your new ride! Best of luck, one thing I would suggest is that the PTU be verified to have the correct fluid level (the procedure is in the factory service manual) by the selling dealer or a trusted mechanic. If it looks at all gunky, best to have it changed out.

2007 FSM: Heater Core — Plugged WARNING: The heater core inlet hose will become too hot to handle if the system is working correctly. Check to see that the engine coolant is at the correct level.Start the engine and turn on the heater.When the engine coolant reaches operating temperature, feel the heater core inlet and outlet hoses to see if they are hot.If the outlet only is not hot: the heater core may have an air pocket. the heater core may be plugged. If the inlet only is not hot: the thermostat may not be working correctly. 2007 Edge_Insufficient Erratic or No Heat Diagnostics.PDF EB engines tend to develop air pockets easily. You may want to raise the passenger side of the Edge on jackstands or a curb with the engine cold/at ambient. That makes the degas bottle a high point. Then run the engine with the heat on max/blower on max until it reaches normal operating temperature. Then put the Edge on level ground, let the engine cool back down and check coolant level again. See if it drops any further than that 1/2 inch you already see. More exact stepbysteps here.

That would mean acknowledgement of an existing problem, I guess! Maybe their contract with the supplier gives them lifetime free replacements

Is the coolant level ok in the overflow/degas bottle? FULL COLD mark met? Coolant looks clean? Are the heater hoses warm/hot? Cabin filter clean/free of debris? Blower motor blowing fine? Those would be the first items on my checklist. After that, it could be the blend door OR the CCM (climate control module) itself.

Sadly, it has been a great source of misery for quite a few. Possibly all for the lack of adequate fluid to lubricate & cool the components.

Very likely it is the PTU (front differential as you say) that is toast. Assuming no other damage, you are looking at about $700 in parts, plus the labor to R&R the unit. Make sure to check the fluid level in the new PTU once installed.

The idea is interesting, but using water, not so sure. No way to spray electronics cleaner in there instead, or simply not enough pressure from the can?

Congrats, sounds like a very attractive combo for the new Edge! Enjoy , and post pics when you can.

Welcome, anile, congrats to you & the wife on the new Edge! Regrets that it was not delivered to you in pristine condition, as that should be part of the new car experience. Hope the dealership fixes all those items for you pronto, and then you will post pics of the actual ride

If you use a low wattage LED, then yes, hyperflashing will likely be an issue. In my case, I used LEDs rated to consume at least 1/2 or more the wattage of the incandescents. True, that generates more light, and if that is not your goal (i.e. keeping lumen output same as OEM is your goal), then adding resistors (made easier with ScotchLoks) is the right way to go. Since I have DTBL tails on the Edge, I didn't have to deal with the brake/turn dilemma. In their case, the resistor is mounted to the plastic housing, so might work with the OEM housing as well. Double-sided tape (rated for hot locations) should be fine. DTBL's is screw mounted to the plastic.

Worked yourself into a corner eh? You gave a good try though ...