WWWPerfA_ZN0W

Welcome, and yes, should be free to you.

Were the spark plugs & PCV valve changed while the mechanic was doing the VCS? They should have been, no reason for doublework. Basic maintenance. The MAF sensor should also be tested/replaced, easy peasy. The function of the MAF sensor is too important to ignore. If the oxygen sensors are switching properly, that would be good to know as well. Do these guys have uptodate diagnostic equipment? Can they figure out if fuel injectors are a problem? If they are running diagnostics, they should check fuel pump pressure & volume while they are at it. I don't believe this to the problem, but could be. Also have the battery checked with a modern digital battery load tester. The Edge is heavily electronics dependent, so having a strong battery is very important. If battery is good, verify the alternator/generator.

Very strangely, the CSR for Ford is FordService

LOL

From the fordpartsgiant.com site (2013 Edge): Nut - Wheel - Callout Name: 1012 Make Sure These Fit 6L2Z-1012-BA Nut - Wheel Fit Note: , With 17" Wheels, With 18" Wheels, With 20" Wheels, With 22" Wheels 20 $5.12 $3.62 6W7Z-1012-AA Nut - Wheel Fit Note: , With 17" Wheels 2 $4.60 $3.26 Not sure which one will fit your Edge. Amazon or EBay might be good places to find spares, but might as well get them from the dealer unless you have free shipping available to you.

So no more sound then, I hope. Yeah, once it's loose, it's a very dangerous situation (ask me how I know), but you should get a "wobble warning" beforehand. Not uncommon for shops to torque lugnuts improperly, especially if they get "the intern" to do it.

Would just get familiar with patterns as much as possible for now (but at a relaxed pace ). If any noticeable issue develops, it will be easier to tell what is off (besides possibly having codes to assist).

Like the shoes

Still could be a pad/caliper, or an outofround wheel/tire combo, OR lug nuts not properly torqued causing wobble. But wobble you should be able to feel as wobble, not just hear a sound.

I find these two articles on Tire Rack to be pretty helpful in this regard: Wheel Construction Guide http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=90 Alloy vs Steel Wheels (Winter Pkg) http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=93 If I absolutely HAD to choose from these 4, it would be between the Andros (best construction process) & the Platinum (heaviest/strongest in its' construction class) based on your criteria. I am biased towards the Andros simply because it kinda looks like the 13+ SHO OEM wheels. If I could get steelies though, solely for winter purposes, I'd go with that Sizing all looks good. If TireRack says they will fit, you are golden. http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/results.jsp?&autoMake=Ford&autoModel=Edge+Limited&autoYear=2013&autoModClar=FWD

'cuz you can get it for FREE?

Very strange. The sound is clearly heard, but does not provide hints as to the cause at all! Can you make it happen simply by rowing through the gears while parked?

You are right, +ve LTFT implies lean conditions, implying low voltage at the O2 sensor, which could be caused by sticking fuel injectors (rich conditions by leaking injectors). Seeing the O2 voltages directly tells you if the sensor is working properly, flipping back and forth on a regular basis like it's supposed to. Have you installed the new sensor already? Rear O2s traditionally switch slower than Front O2s, as their information is not considered as critical to the operation of the engine.

Did they have the body shop guy look the frame over, make sure it's straight (since you are thinking accident)?

Sizewise, I think you'll be fine. Just a little less contact area with the road (about 1/2" at each wheel), so a little less roadgripping performance. Nothing you can't live with in return for saving your Edge (and likely, your back).

This. If you can do this (whether fwd or bkwd) when moving the car first thing after it's been sitting awhile, that should alleviate if not eliminate the issue. Now if the brake pads are staring to wear out, you will hear that all the time ...

They make them in wired and wireless versions. http://www.steelmantools.com/wireless-chassisear.html http://www.steelmantools.com/diagnostics/listening-devices/chassisear.html The full lineup: http://www.steelmantools.com/diagnostics/listening-devices.html Any shock/strut/spring work done recently? Shock mounts/bearings can cause all kinds of noises. Especially evident when you hit a rough patch on the road.

Pads could be loose in the calipers and would be more evident as piston pressure decreases on them and the vehicle slows down enough to overcome road noise. I'd have the calipers/slide pins serviced, make sure the shims are installed properly, and that the brake fluid is flushed. Assuming this is brake-related, of course. Did you have the wheels aligned recently? Did they check the suspension/undercarriage at that time to make sure there's no loose bolts/bushing rot/etc.?

Whenever you want to look up the OEM tire sizes, just go to TireRack.com and look it up. For example, for your 2014: 235/70-17 245/60-18 245/55-19 245/50-20 265/40-22 275/25-26 Having more sidewall is important, but so is sidewall strength. So don't go with an overly compliant tire, choose a tire with reinforced sidewall. They don't need to be as stiff as Michelin Pilot Super Sport or Continental ExtremeContact DWS, but should be fairly stiff. Read the reviews for corroboration. HTH.

The lemon law route wasn't available to you? No replacement vehicle, only buyback? Your payments should have been forgiven/refunded. I'd insist on it.

Definitely post a video. Also, does your mechanic have access to a tool like The ChassisEar? Makes it easier to locate the source.

Did you inspect the motor/trans mounts and the swaybar/subframe bushings? Those are good candidates for "weight transfer" situations.

Could be a Transmission Range Sensor (TRS) or a faulty shifter. In previous years, a similar problem has been addressed in this TSB 07-5-2: http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/TSb/DownloadPdf?id=137278 and TSB 10-21-2: http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/TSb/DownloadPdf?id=171188 The 2015 Sport uses the 6F55 transmission, the big brother to the 6F50 used in the original 3.5-engined Edge/MKX.

The EB engines use a MAP sensor, not a MAF sensor, so look for that, it should be available to monitor (as a basic, common PID). I'll have to look to see how a 4 cylinder's O2 sensor might be titled in the app, but that info should also be available. Since OBD Fusion is an Apple app, Forscan is an alternative tool that will work great. Per their webpage, this might be what to look for: 0x06 Short term fuel % trim - Bank 1 0x07 Long term fuel % trim - Bank 1 0x08 Short term fuel % trim - Bank 2 0x09 Long term fuel % trim - Bank 2 0x14 Oxygen sensor voltage, Short term fuel trim (Bank 1, Sensor 1) 0x15 Oxygen sensor voltage, Short term fuel trim (Bank 1, Sensor 2) Also see if there is a misfire counter available in the software. I am more familiar with the V6 3.5 EB's, but on well-running vehicles, LTFT is always 2-3 or below, never in double digits. Even STFT should not be > 5. These engines are very tightly controlled. Do need to see the O2 voltages to see if maybe a leaky injector is an issue. Try pulling the MAP sensor and cleaning it with MAF cleaner, it could very well be as simple as that (tho I am skeptical of that). NOTE: If it IS an injector issue, should be covered under the powertrain and possibly even under the emissions warranty. Fuel pressures at the rail under acceleration look fine to me (I don't have the specs for the L4's tho). The V6's use 2400-2700 psi at WOT typically. Idle might be high, usually at or under 200 psi for the V6, but again, for the L4 IDK. The values might be listed in the specifications section of the Fuel System on the manual's CD. Have you finished the tank w Seafoam? Keep a watch on the mpg, acceleration, misfires, etc. If there IS a problem, it should manifest in SOME way.

You probably know all this stuff, but thought I'd post this thread here for all interested: http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,1239 Also you can try removing the long, thin hood insulator strip that typically runs along the firewall/windshield cowl/hood to improve cooling of the engine between rounds. Hopefully won't see "hood lift" either with this "mod", tho it has been more of an issue after 120 mph or so on other EB vehicles.