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I hope you get a price break on the new guy's labor & parts charges too! And also that he's trustworthy and good at diagnostics. Usually, when a phaser needs to be replaced, it will set a code in the computer: P0016 and the check engine light will go on. http://www.justanswer.com/ford/7d2nh-edge-2008-ford-edge-limited-engine-light.html There is a TSB that might be applicable here: TSB 11-6-1 3.5L / 3.7L ENGINE - VCT CODES P0011, P0012, P0016, P0018, P0021, P0022 - RUNS ROUGH OR MISSES - VEHICLES BUILT ON OR BEFORE 12/15/2008 TSB 11-6-1_3.5L-3.7L ENGINE - VCT CODES P0011, P0012, P0016, P0018, P0021, P0022 - RUNS ROUGH OR MISSES - VEHICLES BUILT ON OR BEFORE 20081215.pdf Cam phasers are an in-vehicle repair so no, the engine does not need to be pulled out. The timing cover does come off during this process, so I would have the timing drive components including chains, tensioners, etc. replaced at the same time. There are 2 cam phasers, 1 for each bank of the engine, and both should be replaced at the same time. Phaser Front: http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/xEQAAOSw9N1Vn-8s/s-l1600.jpg Phaser Back: http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/DmEAAOSwPcVVn-8s/s-l1600.jpg What a typical timing set contains (image from EBay listing): 3 Timing Chain 2 Tensioner 1 Sprockets 4 Timing Guide Image: http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/h0oAAOSwpDdVJ~2S/s-l1600.jpg And since all these things have to be removed anyway to get to the water pump, be sure to have the water pump inspected thoroughly as well. No point in having to go in again to replace it if it's already showing signs of leakage/wear. If this guy is so familiar with this engine, he should have no problem giving you a solid recommendation and standing by it, in writing.

LED. LED. LED. The one I was thinking of has this design: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2X-USA-WHITE-LED-T10-194-168-921-2825-W5W-WEDGE-BULBS-WITH-GLASS-REPLACEMENT-/321401924164 Designed & made in the USA, it was a limited production run. If they are still selling and I find 'em, I'll post a link.

There ARE bulbs that are designed like an incandescent bulb but with an LED inside, usually found on EBay. But lumens is not rated higher than the stock bulbs, and price is relatively high. omar's suggestion is a good one, I might try them out if I feel like pulling the taillights again

Does this mean more eye candy on the mac t channel?

Backup petcock!

Hope you can return the Nighthawks at least. Gets expensive trying to find the right bulbs ...

I think they run on 91 octane there if I am not mistaken, so turbos/supercharged vehicles have an advantage there. You will want to fill up on midgrade if what this article says is true, to get 87 octane. http://www.denverpost.com/latin/ci_4503169

Wait ... there's a problem other than the meandering one??? J/K! Yes, there is a radiator drain plug, located at the bottom driverside of the unit. Part 8115 in the attached PDF diagram. 2011 ford edge radiator drain plug location.PDF

Glad it all worked out, and good luck with the Escape! Post a few pics of it here please before moseying on over ...

Only factory halogens in reflector (non-projector) housings for high/low beams. Not sure if the fogs qualify as projectors though. Aftermarket projector headlight assemblies are available.

It is normal, especially if you have been using the A/C or defroster (A/C turns on automatically) etc. Does the water drip freely onto the ground when the A/C is turned on? If you are concerned, you can have the refrigerant level checked to make sure it's ok and that there are no leaks in the system. It could always be a backed up/clogged/leaking evaporator, but less likely.

The stalk (or MFS) is known to stiffen up with use also. May not be the case here, but if it is, replacement of the MFS will cure its' ills.

Did the dealer give a "firmer" delivery date? You can explain your case to the dealer & see if they will put you into a rental. If they don't, you can try Ford directly via FordService on here. But, TBH, delivery dates are not fixed, they are the best ETA they have. So you will likely get pushback on this. Try a longterm rental, it might be cheaper?

Possibly the A/C refrigerant pressure equalizing.

I suppose you could ADD an inline filter like they sometimes do for the power steering fluid ...

Welcome Sergepaul! Do you mean the Titanium? AWD or FWD? Sounds very much like a transmission (clutch) or PTU problem. I would have said possibly brakes if the symptoms appeared even in Drive mode. When you put it in reverse, are you on flat ground, or on a slope (uphill/downhill)? Does this happen even after the car has been driven for a while or only right after when you first start it up for the day? EDIT: If it's trans related, could be as simple as a shift linkage adjustment. Any difference if switching from Neutral to Reverse versus Park to Reverse (all while the Edge is motionless of course) then moving?

The EcoStang is no slouch. Just one example: Dyno chart around 0:41 Track speeds? http://www.svtperformance.com/2015/10/16/news-first-10-second-ecoboost-mustang/ Of course, the weight differential between the Stang and the Edge is a couple of pounds ...

In the "short" time I have had my Edge, I have filled about 1/2 inch of coolant twice. Don't know if it's normal, but seeing as how the water pump is a somewhat weak point in this system (assuming engine porosity doesn't strike first), that might be a problem area to watch out for.

3 cheers for DIY!

a fuel pump (FP) module containing:the electric FP module, which provides pressurized fuel to the fuel rail. the fuel level sensor. a check valve, which maintains system pressure after the FP module is shut off. a pressure relief valve for overpressure protection in the event of restricted fuel flow. an in-tank fuel filter providing filtration to protect the fuel injectors from foreign material. Item Part Number Description 1 W705909 Fuel pump (FP) module access cover retainer screw (4 required) 2 9C355 FP module access cover 3 9C385 FP module lock ring 4 9H307 FP module 5 9276 FP module O-ring 6 — FP module electrical connector (part of 14407) 7 — Fuel supply tube quick connect coupling (part of 9324)

Are the coolant and refrigerant levels OK? As far as the radiator fans, probably need to replace the fans and/or the AC Pressure Switch.

That is just nasty, every owner's nightmare! Probably be best off replacing the tank. Hopefully the fuel lines are not also compromised.

Wonder if these are any cheaper in the spring?

Amen to that!

Any idea if the part number changed or the design changed?