WWWPerfA_ZN0W

The part number is in this list. The xx refers to the particular color you are looking for. 7A1Z-7863386-xx Greystone would be AB. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-OEM-RH-PASSENGER-REAR-SEAT-OUTBOARD-BRACKET-COVER-EDGE-MKX-7A1Z-7863386-AB-/231661391120?hash=item35f0184d10:g:Y~oAAOSwLVZV11F7&vxp=mtr All about $55 though. Post in the LevittownFordSuperCenter, see what Benny can price it out to for you.

Sorry Wish I did, but that was all I could find. Mitchell/Chilton/etc online services will give you the ASI info ... for a fee, of course.

As long as there's a video or two in it for us!

You mean the Osram Nightbreaker Plus? I found the lights to make a significant difference from stock. Then I moved up to LED lighting, even better. JDM, vLEDs offer some of the better products in the LED area, I think. The aftermarket "projector" assemblies should work fine. Especially if you plan to upgrade to a different technology like LED or HID. If you do get the assemblies, definitely upgrade the bulbs at the same time to LED or HID. The DriveBright.com HID kit is quite nice, not sure how it plays with the 2007-10 Edge, but worth sending an EMail to Dan at DriveBright to inquire.

Sounds you are all set, only way to go

They do seem to offer the brightest LED headlamps to date. If people wanted a 3,000 lumen version, they also have the option to go with JDM for < $100 a pair.

Enjoy Hope you all get Thanksgiving off to celebrate w/ family & friends as well.

Have you seen this thread? http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/17035-adding-oem-remote-start-kits-parts-explained-detailed-2011/

I would talk to Benny at Levittown or to someone at Tasca to confirm that the Sport springs will be ok for the non-Sport. Since the suspension settings are tweaked differently (and I am not sure what the exact differences are), you may end up with too firm a ride, IDK.

The hub size on 2011+ wheels is smaller than the hub size on 2007-10 Edges. You would have to bore out the 2011+ wheels to fit on the 2007-10's, an expensive process needing CNC machining for precision. HTH.

Welcome, Shaymer, congrats on the '07, and on the impending family expansion As far as what to look out for, it is "low mileage", but do you have the maintenance records to go with, or any warranty from the dealership? Is the Edge AWD or FWD? At the very least, do the spark plugs & PCV valve. With a little patience, it is a very DIY job. This can save the catalytic converters as well as restore power & mileage. Trans fluid drain & fill. Flush not necessary, but you can get it done if you want to. If you have AWD, consider having the PTU and RDU fluids checked for consistency/level, preferably changed out. Check tires for cracking/bumps/bubbles/nails etc., along with remaining treadlife. May need replacement if not in perfect condition with excellent tread depth. Check rotors & pads for remaining life. Replace as needed. Have the caliper slide pins serviced if the pads and/or rotors are being serviced. Brake fluid flush is recommended. Winter's coming, so new wiper blades & top off washer fluid. Have battery checked, make sure it can withstand extreme weather starts & charge properly. If needed, see if you can get a battery with a higher CCA rating. How does the lighting (headlights, backup, etc) perform at night? Pretty easy to install new bulbs yourself if need be. The less history you have on the Edge, the more important it will be get these items taken care of, IMHO.

Good luck with air bag & sudden acceleration issues But yeah, I get what you mean. We all have certain brands that we hold dear.

Have you had the Edge serviced recently or maybe something has hit the underside of the engine compartment? Rattling could be from a hose that is not secured properly, or from a brake pad clip that is loose, or even from an engine appearance cover or underbody belly pan that has not been re-installed correctly. For starters. I have never heard of an oil/trans fluid dipstick being loose, but it could happen.

Hmmm. Could be the headlight alignment is off? Do the lenses look clear or cloudy when the lights are on? From pg 290 of the manual (ADJUSTING THE HEADLAMPS): ADJUSTING THE HEADLAMPS The headlamps on your vehicle are properly aimed at the assembly plant. If your vehicle has been in an accident, an authorized dealer should check the alignment of your headlamps. Vertical Aim Adjustment 1. Park the vehicle directly in front of a wall or screen on a level surface, approximately 25 feet (7.6 meters) away. • (1) 8 feet (2.4 meters) • (2) Center height of lamp to ground • (3) 25 feet (7.6 meters) • (4) Horizontal reference line 2. Measure the height of the headlamp bulb center from the ground and mark an 8 foot (2.4 meter) horizontal reference line on the vertical wall or screen at this height. 3. Turn on the low beam headlamps to illuminate the wall or screen and open the hood. To see a clearer light pattern for adjusting, you may want to block the light from one headlamp while adjusting the other. For Vehicles with Halogen Headlamps: On the wall or screen you will observe a flat zone of high intensity light located at the top of the right hand portion of the beam pattern. If the top edge of the high intensity light zone is not at the horizontal reference line, the headlamp will need to be adjusted.

Maybe this will help? Not the easiest to read, but ... http://www.leatherworldtech.com/Ford-Lincoln-Mercury-Leather-Dye-Color-s/1849.htm

I think it has a decent chance of working. The only question is whether any circuits got zapped during the jumpstart, and whether the battery is still good (need a modern digital load tester to verify).

disconnect battery neg cable, let sit 30 min, reconnect. if that does not work, you will likely need to replace the battery and/or the instrument cluster.

Contact Dan at DriveBright.com, if his website doesn't specify 2015 Edge products. Another option is LED lighting from vLEDs.com. Do you have OEM halogens right now? Headlamp high beam. 9005LL 55 Headlamp low beam. H11LL 55 High-intensity discharge headlamps. D3S HID

Sounds like you need to install the Battery Brain, mac! Maybe something's caught in the rear wiper arm, causing resistance & hence, buzzing? Does it happen only when the weather is coldest?

This feature was implemented for MY2011+, so, no.

The biggest bottleneck in airflow tends to be in the downpipes because the bends are "awkward" rather than smooth. Once those are addressed, addressing the air intake and catback makes sense. Also remember that nowadays, the stock intake/catback already flows quite well, so you have to be after major gains in hp/tq OR better looks to merit new equipment there.

Canadian layout ... DD/MM/YYYY

Does sound like there is crud builtup inside the cooling system, so a flush is a good idea. What worries me more is the possibility of a leak somewhere in the system, which from empirical evidence, happens due to a leaking water pump or porous engine block. There are 3 types of coolant specified for the 2011 model year: •Motorcraft Specialty Green Engine Coolant (dark green-colored) •Motorcraft Specialty Orange Engine Coolant (US) •Motorcraft Specialty Orange Engine Coolant (Canada)2 Whatever the cap on the degas/overflow bottle says is what should be used. These products are NOT interchangeable. Was your Edge built prior to 7/11/2011? Motorcraft Coolant Chart https://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com/Main/quickref/coolantsEN.pdf Motorcraft Coolant Application Guide.pdf

There IS an accessory drive belt tensioner in the system, so it could be in need of replacement if the belt is screeching.

If there's not too much variation during the day, stick with the recommended tire pressure on the driver door jamb, typically 35 psi. From TireRack: The tire should state the max pressure it can handle. Stay well short of it at the max expected temperature, and you should be fine. More immediate & knowledgeable advice of course from omar/arabski/etc is better, of course