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The Battery Management System (BMS) needs to be reset every time a new battery is installed on 2011+ Edges. The PCM needs to "learn" the new battery. Could also be an unrectified drain on the system somewhere, or a bad alternator. And, welcome!

Happy thanksgiving to you and yours, mac. Safe journeys & tall tales!

FordService is who you are looking for. Sync/MFT has their own rep on the site as well.

Good luck with the RX350, waiting for pics ...

Remote start ... quickly turns from a "want" item to a "must-have" item

Fingers crossed the FP is the fix! Lifetime parts, what can you say

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Hopefully it's just the relearn process and the slippage goes away soon ...

Welcome to Edge-mania, fi! You can post the audio-related questions in this subforum: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/forum/6-audio-navigation-sync/

To get to the actuator is always more work on one side than the other But, the dash does NOT have to be disassembled (at least in the 2007). LH temperature blend door Item Part Number Description 1 W708268 Lower steering column opening cover bolt (2 required) 2 7804459 Lower steering column opening cover 3 14401 In-vehicle temperature sensor electrical connector 4 19C739 In-vehicle temperature sensor aspirator hose 5 — LH temperature blend door actuator screw (3 required) 6 19C603 LH temperature blend door actuator electrical connector 7 19E616 LH temperature blend door actuator Removal and Installation NOTE: It is not required to install the new LH temperature blend door linkage parts included in the LH temperature blend door actuator service part kit if only the temperature blend door actuator requires replacement and the linkage parts are not broken or binding. LH temperature blend door actuator and linkage Remove the 2 lower steering column opening cover bolts.Detach the lower steering column opening cover.Disconnect the in-vehicle temperature sensor aspirator hose and electrical connector.Position the instrument panel wire harness away from the LH temperature blend door actuator.Remove the 3 LH temperature blend door actuator screws.Disconnect the LH temperature blend door actuator electrical connector.Remove the LH temperature blend door actuator.Manually operate, and inspect the LH temperature blend door linkage for incorrect placement, binding or damage.LH temperature blend door linkage only Detach the 2 retaining tabs and remove the LH temperature blend door linkage.LH temperature blend door actuator and linkage To install, reverse the removal procedure.Temperature Blend Door Actuator — RH, Dual-Zone EATC Item Part Number Description 1 7806200 Glove compartment damper 2 7806024 Glove compartment 3 — RH lower instrument panel insulator pin-type retainer (2 required) 4 — RH lower instrument panel insulator 5 7804608 RH lower floor console trim panel 6 — RH temperature blend door actuator screw (3 required) 7 19C603 RH temperature blend door actuator electrical connector 8 19E616 RH temperature blend door actuator Removal and Installation NOTE: It is not required to install the new RH temperature blend door linkage parts included in the RH temperature blend door actuator service part kit if only the temperature blend door actuator requires replacement and the linkage parts are not broken or binding. RH temperature blend door actuator and linkage Disconnect the glove compartment damper from the glove compartment.Remove the glove compartment.Remove the RH lower instrument panel insulator.Remove the RH lower floor console trim panel.Remove the 3 RH temperature blend door actuator screws.Disconnect the RH temperature blend door actuator electrical connector.Remove the RH temperature blend door actuator.Manually operate, and inspect the RH temperature blend door linkage for incorrect placement, binding or damage.RH temperature blend door actuator linkage only Detach the 2 retaining tabs and remove the RH temperature blend door linkage.All vehicles To install, reverse the removal procedure.

Welcome to the forum, sorry you are experiencing issues with your Edge! Bad mileage is typically from failed oxygen sensors and/or leaking fuel injectors. It's not really possible to mis-connect the coils either due to the short wiring in the harness. Winter fuel will also cut your summer mpg by 10% or more. A bad tank of gas doesn't help any either (did you just get gas before the symptoms appeared?)! Bad (dirty or low octane) fuel can cause hi revs without results. There are TSBs for "5th gear start from stop" etc that point to internal trans issues if we do end up looking at that area. Plugged cats can also cause the "loss of power" sensation. The gap on the new plugs is not too far off, it should be in the range of 0.049–0.053 inch. Which ones did you install? SP-520's I hope? SP-411's are for 2007-10 MYs. When you changed the plugs did any of them seem wet or have a substantial fuel smell? If the gaps on 3&4 were radically different from the rest, the coils could be on their way out, maybe even the PCM could be in need of replacement (thinking out loud). .010 variation is probably ok, maybe they did not come properly gapped from factory when installed, happens quite often. As far as the codes: http://www.obd-codes.com/p0340 http://www.obd-codes.com/p0344 Is the electronic connector at the throttle body tightly connected? Did you spray/clean the throttle body while you were doing the plugs (could cleaner have leaked onto the sensors/wiring)? Possibly replacement of the camshaft position sensor is required. Or the connections were disturbed at the time of spark plug replacement, look for pinched wiring as well. Looks like a DIY if the sensors do need replacing. Item Part Number Description 1 14A464 LH camshaft position sensor (CMP) electrical connector 2 W500214 LH CMP bolt 3 6B288 LH CMP 4 14A464 RH CMP electrical connector 5 W500214 RH CMP bolt 6 6B288 RH CMP Removal and Installation RH sensor Remove the air cleaner outlet pipe. For additional information, refer to Section 303-12 .LH sensor Remove the air cleaner assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 303-12 .Both sensors Disconnect the camshaft position sensor (CMP) electrical connector.Remove the bolt and the CMP sensor. To install, tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in). NOTE: Lubricate the CMP O-ring seal with clean engine oil. To install, reverse the removal procedure.

Good thing the noises are finally gone! I'd definitely go to the new dealer and give them a tryout. Hopefully THEY deserve their reputation. If they do, have them look at and relocate the mysterious foam piece. It's there for a reason, so best to have it in place, right? You go to a lot of trouble not to get people into trouble, and that is admirable Problem is, what happens to the person after you, and the person after that? So at some point, it is worth letting Ford know what is going on so they can do what they are able to do. In the big scheme of things, I think it is better to speak up, although certainly choosing diplomacy over conflict until the option is exhausted.

Maybe the driveshaft mount bearings have gone bad? That can cause the vibration. Any vibration if you have the shifter in NEUTRAL and rev the engine to 2-2.5K rpm? The driveshaft is disengaged in NEUTRAL (and PARK also, I think). If the bearings are bad, then driveshaft replacement might be the only solution. Another option is to have the PTU & RDU fluids checked, flush & fill with new fluid if the old fluid is free of metallic debris. Maybe the seals are leaking on either end where it inserts into the PTU/RDU.

Unless the actuators are sticking, the Climate Control Module is a prime suspect.

Lombards is another option.

AWD or FWD? Could be an underbody panel that's loose, or an exhaust pipe that's not secured, or seat bolts that need tightening, for example.

Very good info, sensitron, thank you!

If you change to Max A/C, do both sides get cold or just one? Air blowing out equally well from the vents on both sides? I too would lean towards a failed blend door or blocked airways/ducts.

I thought we were in for a stunt driving video experience! But this way is good too

I think you'll be fine with 18s. That's what I have on my SEL, and even with all-seasons all year, never had a problem. You have to start with a good tire, of course. If you are running Blizzaks (or a similar hiperforming winter tire) in the wintertime, I'd say you've got it covered.

235s are 10 mm narrower and 255s 10 mm wider than stock. 5mm on each side, noticeable to a critical eye for sure, but not the quick glance. 235s will perform better in the winter, 255s in the rest of the seasons.

Winter safety will be better with the 18s, no question (more room to absorb those bumps & lumps you can't see). The 20s will be sportier, but not as safe, IMHO. If you are an "active" driver, though, the 20s will work fine. One interesting tidbit: the more open the wheel, the more packed the snow and ice seem to get onto the wheel, destabilizing the wheel/tire performance. The OEM 22s are very open compared to the 18s.

Tires are working great! Not so sure about the headlights HID!!!

Cellbine!!!!

Alchemist's gold!