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Finally! A code to work with Good luck, looking forward to updates.

Oil CAN cause a significant drop in mileage if it increases the work the engine has to do, and if it increases wear & tear on the engine. We have had a couple of instances recently on this forum where the vehicle experienced a noticeable drop in fuel economy (> 1 mpg) right after an oil change. Apparently a heavier than recommended viscosity oil had been installed. Fuel economy was quickly restored by an oil change with the correct viscosity oil. Yes, it would be ok to be guided by the 5W20 spec listed in the owner's manual. The oil must be at least a synthetic blend if not a full synthetic. What I do NOT know is whether there are specific regulatory requirements from the EU that say the oil HAS to meet such&such specifications. I would at least find an oil that meets the specifications Ford has put in the owner's manual.

Welcome to the forum & Edge ownership, Gearjamer! Glad you like the Edge so far! Yeah, the sunroofs should be optional on the topend models, but I guess they think it's a "high-end" distinguishing feature? Pics?

No, the bypass was extra, IIRC. I will call them up to confirm what exactly was needed. Those are some gorgeous photos, Cellbine. The upkeep on the temple must be quite a job!

Motul is well-liked, so is Mobil 1 as a brand. No idea how a specific product (such as 0W30) compares though. You can ask and see if they have product data sheets to give you more technical information. Either 0W30 or 5W20 should work for summertime, along with 5W30. I am only mentioning the 30 weight oils in deference to the recommendation made by your local Ford representatives, especially since it is a full synthetic oil. Synthetic blends and synthetics tend to be "thinner", better flowing than the mineral/conventional oils of the same SAE viscosity rating. A good article on motor oil: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/

Should be similar, but can't say for sure. Under the 3/36 warranty, yes. Don't think so under the Powertrain warranty. Covered under Ford ESP also (BaseCARE & up).

I'm not a power user, so I am pretty happy with the basics: lock, unlock, remote start, remote stop. The remote with the LCD gives me feedback on what the car is doing, and there is a timer you can set on it as to how long to run before auto-shutoff. This will be my first winter with the system, so I will find out how it performs Since I have manual climate control, I have to remember to leave the settings to max fan, HEAT and VENT/DEFROST before exiting the vehicle.

Let us know how it pans out

So change it to 0W30 (depending on the lows) or 5W30 in the summertime, no problem. We do see temps 35C here or above, but it's not frequent. More like 28-30C summertime norm.

It's worth a shot, won't hurt anything. Ford thought 5W20 would work for Ecoboost engines in the US/CA, but updated it to 5W30 later on, when fuel dilution problems became apparent in GDI engines. They are not infallible, and you can experiment a little bit without significant risk. Manufacturers issue general specifications to cover a wide variety of conditions, but only YOU know what conditions YOUR vehicle will be facing. So you can tweak here & there, and oil is an easy one to try.

But you have the standard US/CA owner's handbook, or do you get a version specific for your region? I wonder if the fuels in your region dilute the engine oil significantly, needing the heavier spec of 30 instead of 20 used for US/CA 3.5L engines/fuels. Ecoboost engines are spec'd in the US/CA to run at 5W30, while in your region, seems to be 5W20. That is the opposite of what is being done here. VERY confusing. I do like that the formula is full synthetic and is a Castrol product, still not sold on the 5W30 spec though. Maybe try something like the Mobil 1 0W30 product? http://www.mobil1.co.uk/synthetic-engine-oils/bmw-approved-esp-0w-30.aspx?tabs=specifications#tabs Typical Properties - Mobil 1 ESP 0W-30 Viscosity, ASTM D 445 cSt @ 40ºC 67.8 cSt @ 100ºC 12.2 Sulfated Ash, wt%, ASTM D 874 0.6 Phosphorous 0.08 Density @15º C kg/l, ASTM D 4052 0.846 Total Base Number (TBN) ASTM D 2896 6.3 MRV at -30ºC 26900 Viscosity Index 165 HTHS Viscosity, mPa•s @150ºC, ASTM D 4683 3.5

Might want to take off the electrical connector, clean up both sides, put in some dielectric grease, reconnect & see what happens. Not knowing what year your Edge is, this is what the 2007 FSM shows me: NOTE: The windshield wiper motor is not serviceable separately. The windshield wiper motor and the mounting arm and pivot shaft must be replaced together. Wiper Mounting Arm and Pivot Shaft Removal and Installation Remove the upper cowl panel grille.Disconnect the windshield wiper motor electrical connector.Remove the 2 windshield wiper mounting arm and pivot shaft assembly bolts and the windshield wiper mounting arm and pivot shaft assembly. To install, tighten to 7 Nm (62 lb-in). To install, reverse the removal procedure. Item Part Number Description 1 17C526 Windshield wiper pivot arm nut cover 2 W708841 Windshield wiper pivot arm nut 3 17526 RH/ 17527 LH Windshield wiper pivot arms 4 W707532 Windshield wiper mounting arm and pivot shaft assembly bolts (2 required) 5 17508 Windshield wiper mounting arm and pivot shaft assembly

Good question. I don't have the factory alarm, just the PATS. They did have to install a bypass unit (separate from the Crimestoppers product, I believe), but I don't see it listed on the invoice. I can check with them & report back.

Don't use FI cleaners more often than specified by the product's mfr, but Techron and BG 44K are two that people have successfully used in DI motors. Won't clean the backside of the intake valves, that will happen with an induction cleaning/methanol injection/manual scrubbing. I don't believe there is a PCV valve as such on the 2.0L EB. I looked through the FordParts.com website and didn't see an arrangement like that. There IS a crankcase breather hose, but that's about it. Most of the PCV problems with the EB engines arise from the baffle design inside the valve covers, at least that's how Ford addresses them. You can see the emissions related part numbers listed here: http://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts-list/2013-ford-edge/emission-control-crankcase.html http://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts-list/2013-ford-edge/vacuum-control-and-air-injection.html

What is the oil you use in the Edge? Ford specifies 5W20, you might want to try 0W20 instead, especially in the wintertime, and see if that helps. It should definitely make startups easier. Is HEET available in your area? Run it through a tankful of gas (or two). Do you remote start? If so, try leaving the climate control on MAX HEAT or DEFROST before turning off the engine, to make interior warm up quicker. Is installing an engine block heater a possibility? Check tire pressures after the vehicle is sitting overnight. They should be 35 psi or so at that time, before any driving. There's always the option of "golf-balling" the Edge

The MAP sensor is right after the air filter box, as you noticed. I don't think this is a major cause of the problem with mpg, unless you use an oiled air filter. Even so, I would be looking at other reasons, like dirty fuel injectors, faulty oxygen sensors & worn spark plugs first. Aside: found this fun read from FullRace on the 2.0 Ecoboost engine: http://www.full-race.com/articles/inside-the-4-cylinder-ecoboost-2-liter.html

As Brucifer pointed out, could be the fuel, could be the type of driving, how much idling time the engine is seeing (shouldn't idle more than 30 seconds - 1 minute when cold; after that drive gently while the engine/trans warm up). Did you change the spark plugs/PCV valve yet? This is an obvious one, but air filter changed? Running fuel injector cleaner through the tank, and/or a drier product (especially if the fuel in your area contains ethanol) could help. I would log the fuel pressure, throttle position, fuel trims, oxygen sensors, spark durations, etc. to see if that provides insight on where the problem might lie.

Sounds like you need to replace the wiper motor and/or the multifunction switch (the stalk on the steering column).

I got a LivingSocial deal on installation of an aftermarket remote start system. It's called the Crimestopper RS7. Haven't tested max range (supposedly 1/2 mile or so), but it's been pretty good so far. http://www.crimestopper.com/products/remote-start/rs7g5.html

The bulbs are separate on the 2007-10's, so if you really wanted both Hi/Lo functionality, you would need 2 sets of bulbs. For example 35w Lo/55w Hi. Check with DriveBright.com to see what they have on offer. If you opt to go LED, check out vLEDs.com for their products. They have a 3,000 lumen version and a 4,800 lumen version.

Does the glue need to be at a particular temperature for this to work? I have a hot glue gun (10W?) meant for arts & crafts ...

Correct. So you'd buy the tuner, use the tuner to read the strategy code, send LME the strategy code. They would then load the tunes for that strategy code onto their server, which you would then download into the tuner, and from there into the vehicle's PCM. It is advisable to return your Edge to stock tune whenever you take it in for service at the dealership, as they may update the PCM without your prior knowledge. When you get the Edge back, check the strategy code before reloading the tune. If the strategy code has changed, contact LME to update the tunes for the new strategy code, download the updated tunes from their server into the tuner, then into the PCM. It also helps to carry the tuner with you, especially on long trips where you may not get fuel with the octane level you are running the tune for. So, for example, if you are running the 93 octane tune, and are going to need to fill up in a 91max area, then you will need the tuner to load the 91 tune instead.

Welcome, Jay, congrats on the '13 Edge! Nice rides, what mods have you made to the Lightning?

Nice product! I hear that if you want to diffuse the light (more coverage w less light density), you can wrap plastic/Saran wrap around the body. Haven't tried it on my HF worklight yet tho ...

Interesting place to mount the shifter