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I like the Osram NightBreaker+ halogen series myself.

Shoulda just plucked it off the assembly line Nice work. I gather many extensive updates await?

Ask Benny at Levittown Ford Super Center for a quote. There's always EBay or other Ford dealers as a fallback, but I'd stick with Benny if it comes down to it. Solenoid Body Assembly - You will need: Module Assy - ECU - Callout Name: 7Z369 7T4Z-7Z369-E Module - Transmission Control (Tcm) Replaced by: AA5Z-7Z369-B 6-Speed Automatic Gasket - Callout Name: 7H200 7T4Z-7H200-A Gasket 6-Speed Automatic and Seal — solenoid body electrical connector partial part number 7J213

The OASIS report is available at any Ford/Lincoln dealership, correct. Note that this will only have history from service work done at a Ford/Lincoln dealership, though I am not sure that warranty work is reported on there, you'll have to ask.

Sorry to hear about the citation, Joe. Did you have the Edge serviced recently? Check to make sure the bellypan/underbody covers are fastened properly. It is important to keep the hood from trying to set itself free. The hood/latch fasteners may need adjustment/tightening also.

First off, the Carfax/Autocheck and OASIS reports should be clean. Are there maintenance records available? Why did the previous owner turn it in? No shudders/rattles/whine/squealing, and drives straight. Normal car shopping stuff. Being a FWD, no PTU to deal with (YAY!). But you would still want to have remaining B2B coverage, and/or Ford ESP warranty, mainly due to the electronics on this vintage vehicle. Check carefully for any rust on the body, particularly the hood. Ford does not fix "non-perforated" panels, that's on you. So make sure no body work has been done, and that the paint is perfect. Brakes should be perfect, no rust, no scoring on the rotors, etc. These can happen particularly when a vehicle is parked a lot, and brake material embeds onto the rotors over time. APIM could be an issue over time, but there IS an extended warranty out on that. Throttle Body could act up and cause sudden power loss. Relatively infrequent, but be prepared for it. May or may not set a code. Easily DIY replaceable if it comes down to it, keep receipts. Brake Booster could die on you, but there IS an extended warranty on this also. If the engine is the 2.0EB, keep an eye out for popped hoses underhood, oil pooling in the intake/intercooler, and for fuel pump/control module issues/failure. If you decide to buy, change the engine oil/filter immediately. No telling the condition of the fluids in the engine/transmission/power steering, so check periodically.

I think you are on the right track with checking the car battery. Have it tested for CCAs with a modern, digital load tester. Also check the wiring for the system, see if any cables are shorting or contacts/connectors show corrosion/contamination. Remote starts usually have a runtime that is either fixed or user-programmable. If it is user-programmable with this kit, see if you can change the delay timer and it sticks.

Wow that's one heckuva way to announce your secret desire for a new ride Hope everyone walked away a-ok from that one. Congrats on the new ride, and welcome to the forum!!! Happy New Year!

Well, that cuts down on expenses!

I sure did! Happy New Year, and here's to another 3-day weekend!!!

Wow! Can't wait to "watch" the progress and final assembly

The dealer will need to download the as-built data (specific to your Edge) into the new SJB before it will work properly.

True beauty comes from within, and you just proved it

Like the industrial look

If it's just a little too thick, try trimming the edges with a razor or boxcutter etc. Should work fine afterwards.

PDF for TSB referenced above. TSB 12-3-18 18 INCH CHROME-CLAD ALUMINUM WHEEL OUTBOARD RIM FLANGE CORROSION.pdf

I would place the blame on the pump. Forced spraying in cold weather increases wear and tear on that component, causes overheating, and thus breakdown over time. Possible causes as listed by the FSM (for inoperative pump): Open or short to ground in circuit CRW07 (GY/BN), CRW14 (BU/WH), CRW20 (GY/YE) or CRW23 (VT/GN) Multi-function switch Washer pump motor Windshield wiper motor Rear window wiper motor If you stop then restart spraying, does it work any better? Removal and Installation Remove the RH front fender splash shield. For additional information, refer to Section 501-02 . CAUTION: When replacing the washer pump, be careful not to damage the rubber grommet. NOTE: To prevent spilling windshield washer fluid, drain the washer reservoir before washer pump removal. Remove the washer pump. Disconnect the electrical connector. Disconnect the hoses. Remove the washer pump. CAUTION: Do not operate the washer pump prior to filling the washer reservoir. Failure to follow these instructions may result in premature pump failure. To install, reverse the removal procedure. Fill the washer reservoir with windshield washer fluid. A couple of short videos that might help:

Are there silencers on the rear calipers, mac, or just on the front ones?

Is it entering the cabin or are the windows down at that point? There's a protective coating on the exhaust system that has to flash/burn off, and that can create a metallic odor. Might be more obvious on longer, lower-speed drives where the exhaust gets warm enough and the dissipation is not as quick.

Ok, so it should be pretty well "broken in" at that mileage. Which full synth (& weight) did you have put in, if I may ask? Probably not an issue, since this appears to be a small hiccup. Stabilize around 1,000 rpms? That's a little high, I think, should be around 600-700 rpm at true idle. If the engine does not reach that rpm even when fully warmed up, that might be something for the techs to look into. Maybe a VCT is sticking initially, they can check the VCT advance errors to verify, for example. Yeah, the ecoboost is a different beast alright. It is very important to not use heavy throttle until the engine reaches full operating temperature. It is very dependent on the oil to have proper flow through all the tiny passages in the engine block and components (like the variable timing solenoids). What seems like a transmission problem can turn out to be an engine problem.

With the DTBL "DRL" (at least on the SHO), you can get the switchback capability with turn signals, so that is very cool. Looks like the 2011-14 Edge product has it too: http://drivebright.com/home/shop/ford-edge-led/ - Unique clear turn signal LED light bar with integrated high output amber turn signal LEDs. - LED turn signal function is easily disabled for white LED DRL only operation

Letting the car warm up only warms up the engine. The trans doesn't start to warm up really until it is put into use. It might be 5 minutes of driving on warm days to get up to temp, or 15 minutes on really cold days. Maybe that is what is happening, but IDK for sure. How many miles do you have on your Edge, and is it still on the original/factory engine oil?

What a way to live Though I admit, I'm super paranoid about the roof on our home after every period of high wind/heavy rain activity!

I believe the 2015 MKX only has the 3.7L, so this issue would not apply. 2015 MKX brochure.pdf 2016 MKX brochure.pdf

Still ave halogens for fogs, just because it's easier to find the 3000K color temp. If you went with HID/LED, make sure the harnesses and any heatsinks/fans are really weatherproof, the location of the lights being so close to the action.