WWWPerfA_ZN0W

Not sure about the Ford product, but many people have successfully used the Toyota Scion xb bumper protector ... http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/3905-found-it/page-5?gopid=65787&do=findComment&comment=65787

You can get an OBDII adapter that you can monitor on a mobile device like a smartphone or tablet or even a Windows PC. Software like Torque Pro (Android devices only) or Forscan (Apple & Android devices, Windows PC) can read codes from the computer. In the U.S., auto parts stores will read the codes for free, but I don't know what the setup is in Israel.

There are many more options for reporting in the 2015+. If you read the section in the OM specific to fuel/mileage (around pg 100 in the 2015 IIRC), you will see what I mean. Aside from that, as akirby said, reset the meter at every fillup to get the mpg/kpl for that fillup. Better yet, by a small margin, is manual calculation

Very nice! Clean garage too

The oxygen sensor essentially helps the PCM figure out how much unburnt fuel there is in the exhaust, and the PCM then adjusts the air-fuel ratio accordingly. This is a continuous process as you drive, not a set-and-forget. That's how the vehicle can achieve the greatest fuel efficiency. Except at WOT, where a relatively fuel-rich mixture is run for maximum available power while preventing engine detonation/failure. Each time you fill up gas, the engine will evaluate fuel trims (air fuel ratios), and can take a few miles of driving to settle into a steady long-term situation (the "new normal"). This is a more pronounced effect in the 2011+ because the PCM adjusts engine performance based on the fuel quality. 2007-10 PCMs do not. Are you are getting fuel from the same station, maybe the fuel is not very good - change stations and see what happens next time. Check & clean the throttle body again, see if the light goes out again. If so, there could be a PCV related issue. Make sure you are running the correct engine oil, and clean or replace the PCV valve. Did you have the exhaust system checked for leaks? Can be very small and hard to find.

Welcome & congrats, lakeguy! Did you get an AWD or a FWD? Post some pics of your rides

Welcome, Jason, and congrats on the new ride! Yeah, waiting's hard! A personalized badge would be way cool ...

AutoX'ing definitely needs high carbon blank rotors. All others tend to crack & wear out much more easily.

I have had occasion to use the ESP on my CPO Edge, and have recovered far more than I paid for it. Consider of course that parts pricing in the repairs is MSRP, not the internet pricing we get from say Levittown

Did you install a 55W system or a 35W system? The problem is more common with the 55W systems, as the startup power draw and fluctuations cause problems with the Edge's electrical systems. If you have a 55W system, then consider powering directly from the battery, and/or adding a relay harness (basically a giant capacitor) in between.

70.6, pretty sure.

i have a feeling the PI wheels will fit onto the 2011-14 just fine. But the bolt pattern is different on the 2015+ IIRC. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/17962-is-the-2015-edge-bolt-pattern-same-as-2014-edge/?do=findComment&comment=137927 No idea on centerbore/hub bore difference if any. There ARE bolt pattern adapters, if you want to go that route. An idea of the patterns Ford has used in the past: http://prowheeladapters.com/ford_bolt_patterns

Could be they did not put in enough oil or the right weight of oil. Has happened before. Also possible the filter or the oil drain plug was not tightened properly and there is a leak from that area.

Does your 2011-14 need the backup camera replaced? Here's a HowTo (thanks, ugoleftillgorite!): http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/19747-backup-camera-replacement/ Also, thanks to xK317Hx: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/17508-reverse-cam-woes/page-2?do=findComment&comment=129556 and a calibration tip (NOTE: This may require a Windows machine) from wlepse: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/20314-idsscan-tool/?do=findComment&comment=151231 and NWS Alpine: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/6241-2011-edgemkx-my-touch-and-sync-problems/page-17?do=findComment&comment=155100

Great writeup, thanks for adding this to our knowledge on the forum! By the way, I take it "straight ahead" is not an option here?

I guess the question is still whether this is simply a part number change or an actual design change meriting the part number upgrade. The first versions of the PTU had problems. Then they added cooling & temp monitoring to some of them. Still had problems. So now ... what? Interesting that Tasca lists the AT4Z7251D as still applicable to the 2015 MY: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-OEM-TRANSFER-CASE-POWER-TAKE-OFF-4WD-MKS-FLEX-MKT-TAURUS-EDGE-MKX-EXPLORER-/281698803682

Hope you have the warranty contract handy, Tacyon! That's what I'd wave in their faces if they refused warranty work

I don't think anyone with a 2015 has put on a lot of miles yet, but if so, add it to macbwt's thread for sure! TRANSFER CASE - 2015 Ford Edge (FT4Z7251A) 3.5L TRANSFER CASE - 2015 Ford Edge (DG1Z7251D) 3.5L - Hot Weather Group (Middle East?) TRANSFER CASE - 2015 Ford Edge (F2GZ7251A) 2.0L TRANSFER CASE - 2015 Ford Edge (F2GZ7251B) 2.7L TRANSFER CASE - 2015 Ford Edge (GD9Z7251A) 2.7L - Hot Weather Group (Middle East?) 2014/15 PTU Fluid spec: XY-75W140-QL / WSL-M2C192-A 2014/15 RDU Fluid spec: XY-80W90-QL / WSP-M2C197-A

Thanks for the update, glad the issue is fixed

I don't think the problem is resolved yet. I see the fluid capacities for the PTU/RDU are still the same. I would put them on a 3/36 program for fluid R&R. That should help prolong unit life. That and/or an extended warranty is the way to go, IMO.

Very nice!

Leaky seals or brake hoses/lines are the only thing I can think of where air could have been introduced in this case. Any issues with the caliper pistons while R&R'ing the pads? Did they retract/extend normally or did the effort feel uneven? If the fluid looks good and the bleed in the order recommended by the manual (above) turns out ok, then move on to testing the master cylinder. Hopefully installing rear pads will fix the issue. What rotors/pads are you putting on? If somehow there is air trapped in the HCU, you could try driving on a gravel road and do some hard braking there. That will engage the ABS and flush out the trapped air. This was a procedure used on older 90's era cars, so may or may not work here.

Classic master cylinder or air in system symptoms. Did you bleed the system in order: RH rear, LH rear, RH front, LH front? If the brake fluid has never been flushed, it might be dirty, and cause similar symptoms as well IME.

Ah, I was hoping there was no overheating!!! Dorman is a good brand, so that should not be the issue. Sounds like there is a short somewhere, but, definitely, checking for presence of signal and voltage levels at the fan connection is in order. Check for frayed wiring, you may have open the harness to locate it. Check nearby grounds. Check battery with digital load tester if it comes to that. The fan is a variable speed unit, so it should come on at a "LOW" setting and a "HIGH" setting depending on load. When the fan comes on after the restart, does it come on at a high speed, i.e., is the fan essentially behaving as a one-speed unit? Now that I look at the 2008 Edge brochure, automatic climate control was standard on the Limited.

Did you check for codes to see if any are set? Codes do not necessarily trip the CEL. Do you have the electronic or the manual climate control? I don't think there's anything the matter with the fans/module from what you have described. The fans are not supposed to kick on until after the thermostat has opened up and the temperature has increased a few degrees past that point. This allows the radiator to passively cool, and saves energy. If you want to be sure, inspect the pins on both sides of the connection, make sure they are not damaged or loose or corroded. Then apply some dielectric grease to the connectors and secure the connection with electrical tape. BTW, did you install an OEM, TYC, Dorman (or other brand) fan? There are sometimes issues with the wiring being incorrect, or the connectors not holding securely together with aftermarket units. So, currently I am leaning towards either: A] an air bubble or a clog somewhere in the system as you have already mentioned. The easiest test for flow is simply to check the temperature of the hoses (radiator and heater core) as the engine warms up with MAX HEAT on. B] a defective temperature blend door and/or actuator. Does the heat not come on in any position (PANEL, FLOOR, DEFROST, etc.) or just one of the positions? C] a defective climate control module (EMTC/EATC). D] plugged cabin air filter. May not be the case, but worth a check and change if not done recently. Also visually inspect the intake duct underneath the windshield cowling to make sure it's not clogged or blocked (leaves & bugs usually being the culprit here). Coolant Flow Diagram, 3.5L NOTE: Black arrows indicate hot, white arrows indicate cold. Item Part Number Description 1 8C633 Lower degas bottle hose 2 8005 Radiator 3 8B273 Lower radiator hose 4 8B274 Upper radiator hose 5 6050 Cylinder head 6 6083 Cylinder head gasket 7 8A586 Thermostat housing 8 9N271 Heater inlet tube 9 9K461 Lower intake manifold 10 8501 Coolant pump 11 6010 Engine block 12 8W005 Upper degas bottle hose 13 18C553 Heater hose assembly 14 18B539 Heater core 15 8A080 Degas bottle