WWWPerfA_ZN0W

Also found this interesting little blurb in the owner's manual: Electrical accessory installation To ensure proper operation of the BMS, any electrical devices that are added to the vehicle should not have their ground connection made directly at the negative battery post. A connection at the negative battery post can cause inaccurate measurements of the battery condition and potential incorrect system operation. Note: Electrical or electronic accessories added to the vehicle may adversely affect battery performance and durability and may also affect the performance of other electrical systems in the vehicle. A link to battery performance/testing: http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/Fall2008/truck_batteries.htm Also: http://www.linnbenton.edu/auto/perform/no_start.html

Welcome to the forum, Leon, congrats to you both on the new acquisition, and regrets on the poor experience with the selling dealer. If it weren't for the warranty possibilities and the implied quality, CPO really wouldn't mean much, sadly. Hope they fixed/are fixing those issues for you though! The brake booster and door latch are 2 more items to keep on your radar. 2.0 Ecoboost or 3.5L engine? New wheels will look snazzy for sure!

Supposedly it's a dealer-only (IDS-only, actually) to reset the BMS. But there may be a way around it if you charge the battery and let the vehicle sit undisturbed for 8 hours (?) ... Don't know how that would play with a new battery. This is how the factory manual explains it: Battery Management System Load Shed Strategy NOTICE: When any vehicle module is being programmed, connect an external battery charger to make sure that the module programming is completed without the interruption due to the load shedding feature becoming active. The external battery charger must maintain a system voltage above 13 volts. This can require a charger setting higher than the lowest charge setting. The external battery charger negative connection must be made to an engine or vehicle chassis ground and not the negative battery terminal. If the connection is to the negative battery terminal, load shedding cannot be prevented from being invoked and module programming may be corrupted. After charging has begun, start the engine to clear any load shed states and then turn the engine off and proceed with programming. NOTE: To maintain correct operation of the load shed, any electrical devices or equipment must be grounded to the chassis ground and not the negative battery terminal. A connection to the negative battery terminal can cause an inaccurate measurement of the battery state of charge and can cause incorrect load shed system operation. This vehicle is equipped with a load shed strategy. The Body Control Module (BCM) uses the battery current sensor to keep track of the battery state of charge. The battery current sensor is a Hall-effect sensor attached to the battery ground cable. On vehicles equipped with Intelligent Access (IA), the ignition state can also change. Engine Off Load Shed The BCM uses the battery current sensor to keep track of the battery state of charge. The battery current sensor is a Hall-effect sensor attached to the battery ground cable. When the engine is off, and the BCM determines the battery state of charge is below 40%, 10% of the charge has been drained or 45 minutes have elapsed, a load shed message is sent over the Controller Area Network (CAN). This message turns off the audio system to save the remaining battery charge. Under this condition, a message may be displayed on the IPC or center stack display to alert the driver that battery protection actions are active. When charging the vehicle battery by connecting the charger to the negative battery terminal is necessary , such as when using a combination battery charger and battery tester/analyzer, like the GR 1 190 V3.0 Intelligent Diagnostic Charger, the BCM will not immediately update the battery state of charge. In this instance, after charging, you must CARRY OUT the Battery Monitoring System (BMS) Reset using the scan tool. This reset is needed for proper engine off load shedding and to prevent invoking of engine off load shedding earlier than normal. NOTE: If the reset is not carried out, when the battery is charged by connecting the charger to the negative battery terminal, it takes approximately 8 hours for the BCM to learn the new battery state of charge. During this 8 hour period, the vehicle must be undisturbed, with no doors opened or keyless entry button presses. If the vehicle is used before the BCM is allowed to learn the new battery state of charge, engine off load shedding can still occur and a message may be displayed. Vehicles without Intelligent Access (IA)Load shed only occurs when the engine is not running, and the ignition is in the ACC, RUN or delayed accessory position. To clear the load shed state, restart the engine. If load shed occurs, the audio system turns off. If a fault occurs with the battery current sensor or circuit(s), the only load shed strategy is a 45 minute timer. After 45 minutes have elapsed, the audio system turns off. To clear the load shed state, restart the engine. Vehicles with Intelligent Access (IA)Load shed only occurs when the engine is not running, and the ignition is in the ACC, RUN or delayed accessory mode. To clear the load shed state, restart the engine. If the ignition is in RUN and load shed occurs, the audio system turns off and the ignition remains in RUN. If the ignition is in ACC and load shed occurs, the audio system mutes for 1 minute then the ignition mode changes to OFF. For example, if equipped, the memory seats move to the easy exit position and the dome light may illuminate. If a fault occurs with the battery current sensor or circuits, the only load shed strategy is a 45 minute timer. After 45 minutes have elapsed, the audio system turns off. To clear the load shed state, restart the engine. Generator Current Sensor The generator current sensor is attached to the generator B+ cable. The PCM supplies a 5-volt reference and ground to the generator current sensor. The generator current sensor is a Hall-effect sensor that supplies an analog feedback signal to the PCM. Battery Current Sensor The battery current sensor is attached to the negative battery cable. The BCM supplies a 5-volt reference and ground to the battery current sensor. The battery current sensor is a Hall-effect sensor that supplies a Pulse-Width Modulation (PWM) feedback signal to the BCM . As far as having the dealer do it, this is what a post on an F150 site has to say: Perfroming a BMS reset will reset the battery SOC to a default of 85%- regardless of its true state of charge and reset the SOC drain timers. This should get you out of load shed. The following is the procedure using the Diagnostic Engineering tool. BMS reset procedure with Ford "Diagnostic Engineering Tool": Go to Gen Diagnostics and select Module ID to 726 (BCM) Select Service 0X10 and extendedDiagnosticSession, and press "Send Message" button Select Service 0X31 Check "User Defined" box, and type in "201A" Press "Send Message" button For all future reference, do not connect the negative charge lead to the negative battery post. Connect it to another ground attachment point on the truck. That way, the re-charge will be measured by the BMS hall sensor (very near the negative battery post) and will correctly re-adjust the battery SOC

Cool to see MG back in action Could be the plates are shorting internally on Lullubelle's battery. There have been some duds lately even with the Tough Max series. Will definitely need a BMS reset after a swapout.

If you drive all highway, 150K should be a piece of cake Seriously though, it all depends what your driving style is. If you are a "normal" driver, using mostly low to medium throttle, some heavy throttle, and follow the maintenance schedule and use the recommended fluids/products for your vehicle and use high quality fuel, should do just fine. Be aware that claims of 100,000 on spark plugs and 150,000 on trans fluid changes are not my favorite items, and the intervals would be halved for optimum performance. If your driving style is throttle heavy, definitely follow the severe duty schedule, use 93 octane gas, move up to quality full synthetic fluids for the Edge, and expect to pay a bit more due to more frequent "scheduled" maintenance bills. The PTU might be a new design, but in the absence of firm data, expect to be putting the PTU/RDU fluids on the same severeduty schedule as trans fluid, maybe more often. All IMHO. Keep an eye on hoses and clamps related to the turbo system. They like to work themselves loose and can be a cause for annoyance on the EB engines.

What was the temperature when you checked the battery voltage (of 12.4V)? Figure 1 (pg 1) in this document: http://www.pssurvival.com/PS/Batteries/Primitive_Survival/Testing-State-of-Charge_Lead_Batteres_2010.pdf A few basics about lead acid batteries from "Bob's Class" at UCSB: http://my.ece.ucsb.edu/York/Bobsclass/194/LecNotes/Lect%20-%20Batteries.pdf

Have you tried contacting FordServiceCA on here? They may be able to provide more assistance than you have received so far. One more post, and you will be able to PM them with your info/the MKX's info so they can look into it. If you have a case # already, let them know. LKQ has a used part listed on EBay for $375 U.S. In one of the images, it is noted: "Scrap Part if Dropped." More used units here: https://www.hollanderparts.com/used-auto-parts/2014/ford/edge/electrical/594~info-gps-tv-screen/594-01340~front,%20center%20dash%20mounted,%208%22%20touch%20screen,%20thru%2004-08-14,%20id%20bt4t-18b955-ad Not sure what the difference might be. Sometimes the version numbers are simply batch run updates, or there may be a supplier change, or an actual design change.

Is the 7/100 a powertrain or b2b-type warranty?

I don't see info posted for this on car audio sites yet, but you can try places like, or call them ... http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/CarFitGuide.aspx http://www.crutchfield.com/car/carselector.aspx?lp=%2fCar%2foutfitmycar%2fcar.aspx

Very very cool! Probably a first for the Edge

Definitely let me know next time you are in the area! It's been quite a while since I've been to NY city, though I have occasion to visit family & friends in NJ every so often.

The losses do seem a bit on the high side, don't know if that's because of vehicle class. In the Taurus SHO, the losses are more like 15-17%, and that's on an "older" EB setup, so ...

Maybe I'll get to drive one of those and a Prowler at some point in me life

Welcome, officially Yeah, it was an adjustment for me too, going from a 90s sedan to the 07 Edge. Sitting high up, thicker steering wheel, etc. Did like the improvements to powertrain, suspension & handling that make it more car-like, but not QUITE Started out a GM guy, but all Ford for quite some time now.

Welcome aboard, Gary, congrats on the new ride, great looker! AWD? Put up some pics of your Crossfire too, those are gawk-worthy cars

Looking forward to you taking delivery of the new ride, Chipster!

Make sure all recalls are done, and that the PCM calibration is up to date. Other recommendations here: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/19579-looking-at-buying-a-used-2013-edge-sel-fwd-with-appearance-package/?do=findComment&comment=144625

On the 2011+, I believe the front turn signals are the OEM DRLs, but people many times want to use the vertical light bars instead. Some find the OEM light bars inadequate for this purpose, and install the DTBL product instead. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/12612-just-got-my-drl-activated-at-the-dealership/ http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/12919-ford-edge-vertical-led-daytime-running-lights-in-stock/ In older MYs, this is the OEM setup: Daytime Running Lamps (DRL) The DRL system operates the low beam headlamps at a reduced intensity. The SJB supplies pulse width modulated (PWM) voltage to illuminate the low beam headlamps at a reduced intensity when the following conditions are met: The ignition switch is in the RUN position. The headlamps have not been turned on by the autolamp system or the headlamp switch. The transmission is not in PARK (P). As far as the 3D modeling, practice makes perfect!

Another Cellbine innovation, first to 3D print for the Edge I assume the headlights would come on at full intensity since they are not being used as DRLs.

The bypass switch idea that was proposed earlier may work here also? Not quick & easy, but definitely cheaper than changing out the whole part for sure. Ford needs to get this right and provide the "proper" fix.

Welcome, Pedro, congrats! Def post a thread in the Welcome Forum, so you can add all kinds of stuff relating to your Edge http://www.fordedgeforum.com/forum/10-welcome-forum/

Not sure which TSB you are referring to. There were issues with the 2.7EB engine with hoses popping off. With the 3.5, it was a sudden shutdown issue, apparently due to PCM programming errors.

Current list of vehicles on recall available here: http://www.safercar.gov/rs/takata/takatalist.html

Only happens when first driven after sitting overnight? Or even after a few miles? Are you on the brakes when in Park, or relying on the emergency brake only? Is the air intake free & clear of debris? I would have said maybe wheels (with snow/ice, becoming unevenly weighted), but you said it happens even in Park. That also takes out the possibility of the driveshaft if AWD, I think.

i think the word "swap" got confusing maybe :/