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The cyclone was on the intake/throttle body side. Sort of along the idea that Ford had with their High Swirl Combustion engines, just nowhere as good. What I am referring to is/was a greenish tall cylindrical thingy that clamped onto a fuel line close to the engine. You could even get it from jcwhitney at one time! Similar to what this device (for sale on EBay) claims to do. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuel-Saver-Gas-Savings-Technology-Line-Magnetic-Module-/171143368000 I don't think I have seen any studies on the characteristics of airflow passing through automotive air filters (pre & post). Mfr's will quote CFMs, but they are mum on the quality of the airflow coming out of their filters. That might be a worthwhile research topic.

Welp, it could be the difference between an older, "non-performance" filter (somewhat dirty) and a new, clean, "high-performance" filter. Time will tell! Keep track of the mpg's, fit, let's see where this goes EDIT: TBH, as akirby has pointed out, it's not the airflow itself. But, to add, what I believe is how it changes the characteristics of the A/F mix inside the engine. Remember those TV commercials that put a magnetic device on the fuel line to make the fuel more homogenous in character? Same idea. So if more airflow or better airflow creates better atomized and controlled A/F mixes, I could see more fuel efficiency, easily.

You COULD, if this were an Ecoboost engine

You mean by covering the dash sensor so the Edge thinks it's night all the time type of mod? You could then leave it on Auto as well without risking draining the battery coz you forgot to turn the switch off that one time

Nice writeup, good pointers

Welcome, Matt, congrats on the new ride, hope Ford hit it out of the park fer ya! First Ford? What color did you choose, did you get AWD/FWD, what engine ...?

That's what they want you to think! "Oh no, I have to pay someone else to do this!!!"

Pics here: http://www.knfilters.com/cold_air_intake/ford_edge.aspx If the frame seals to the hood and body on 3 sides, which this kit seems to do, you do isolate it from the heat of the engine bay. The issue then becomes how fast the metal body of the pipe heats up/retains heat from the engine bay, and how it affects/negates performance on a longer drive.

There is no mention of the window run part specifically being R&R'd in the factory manual, so I assume it isn't anything different from "standard" installations, and any body shop doing glasswork should know.

These places are operated by people who are truly the salt of the earth:

This is their home page: http://secure.revolutionparts.com/levittown-ford/ This is the subforum that Benny monitors & answers questions in. He's a stand-up guy. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/10937-employee-pricing-on-all-parts-accessories/

Your "legend" status is growing by leaps & bounds! First, Moog, now Solar

2011 Edge Specs: Item Specification Generator — 3.5L Generator pulley ratio 2.66:1 Rating 70 amps @ 600 rpm (min) to 155 amps @ 2,500 rpm (max) Voltage regulator type Electronic internal with generator Generator — 3.7L Generator pulley ratio 2.66:1 Rating 89 amps @ 600 rpm (min) to 178 amps @ 2,500 rpm (max) Voltage regulator type Electronic internal with generator R&R is a piece of cake. Whatcha talkin' about, mac, big strappin' ex-swabbie like you??? Item Part Number Description 1 10346 Generator 2 — Generator electrical connector (part of 14B060) 3 — Generator B+ terminal (part of 14B060) 4 W711953 Generator B+ terminal nut 5 W709986 Generator bolt 6 W712609 Generator stud 7 W520414 Generator nut 8 8620 Front End Accessory Drive (FEAD) belt 9 10329 Radial arm adapter 10 — Radial arm adapter nut (part of 10329) 11 — Radial arm adapter cap (part of 10329) Removal and Installation NOTE: The radial arm adapter is a serviceable item. Do not replace the generator if the radial arm adapter is the only concern. Disconnect the battery. For additional information, refer to Section 414-01 . Remove the cooling fan. For additional information, refer to Section 303-03 . Rotate the accessory drive belt tensioner clockwise and position the accessory drive belt aside. Position the generator B+ terminal protective cover aside, remove the nut and position the generator B+ terminal aside.To install, tighten to 17 Nm (150 lb-in). Disconnect the generator electrical connector.Detach the pin-type retainer and wiring harness. Remove the generator stud nut.To install, tighten to 47 Nm (35 lb-ft). Remove the generator stud.To install, tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb-in). Remove the RH fender splash shield. For additional information, refer to Section 501-02 . Fully loosen the generator bolt and remove the generator.To install, tighten to 47 Nm (35 lb-ft). To install, reverse the removal procedure.

In the 2007 manual, these are the only specs listed: Generator Voltage 12 volt Rating 78/143 amp (max) @ 620-2500 engine rpm @ normal engine temperature

Many Ford dealers have online stores you can buy from. If you go to levittown ford's site (they are a sponsor on this forum), you can get discounted pricing on parts. Plus I believe they will ship overseas as needed.

Good luck, hoping to hear +ve news!

Wow, a Holden Commodore? Sweet! I bet with intake and headers you could've taken him LOL. Winter tires are def not the best for high speed driving due to the soft sidewall. BUT if it were slippery with snow and ice, you would've left him inhaling your dust!

Hmm. I'd have the cap on the degas/overflow bottle pressure tested as well. Maybe it needs to be replaced. Just because you don't see check engine lights, doesn't mean there are no codes set, just that the codes are not serious enough to set the CEL. What exactly did Ford do to fix the "engine slip" issue?

Welcome, Lisa. If you wanted to, in the future, post engine/drivetrain related questions here: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/forum/88-ford-edge-35l-and-37l/ No point in duplicating in another location though. You should have codes pulled, any major auto chain store can do it for you free-of-charge. If you want to have the ability to do so yourself, you can buy an OBD2 scanner like from Actron or Innova. If you have a smartphone, you can get a Bluetooth or Wifi OBD2 adapter and diagnostic software fairly cheap also. It is possible that the fan is not getting the signal from the PCM to turn on. Also possible the AC High Pressure Switch is faulty. Any other problems with the Edge? Does it seem to be running OK otherwise?

Try cleaning up the old connector (a wire brush should do it) and putting some dielectric grease in it prior to reconnecting. Hopefully that will restore enough flow and keep the gremlins out. These part mixups have happened once or twice before, puddle lights IIRC, just keep pestering him till he gets it right for you. Could be a redesign, but he needs to clarify that to you.

There is a thread from not too long ago on doing exactly that. You will need to use elbow grease to make the remainder presentable. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/15070-un-chromed-limited-20-wheel/ http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/13714-chrome-clad-covers-can-be-removed/

If that's true, understanding the limitations of the warranty is a real PITA.

Good to know about the warranty having a definite span. Usually if you get the work done under warranty, your warranty expires, and the issue crops up again, you have to pay out of pocket to fix it. Now if you had already paid out of pocket for the latch replacement, then the 2 yr/xxxxx mileage (unlimited now, I believe) warranty applies.

I don't believe that Ford's "fix" is a long-term fix. Neither is a replacement of the unit, but it should at least last longer than the "fixed" unit. As long as you have warranty, Ford should keep fixing the issue for you. This time demand a replacement instead.

Look up NAPAonline.com to see what batteries will fit the Edge. They list "normal" SLA as well as AGM & Optima batteries when available. With Optima, look for the right "size" battery by checking physical dimensions and correct placement of the +/- posts. On the '07, the terminals are reversed, and it's hard to find replacements that will work (cables are not long enough to flip). You can also look for Motorcraft Tough Max BXT65-850 batteries that have 850 CCAs (!). Interstate offers this: http://www.atbatt.com/interstate-mega-tron-plus-mtp-65-automotive-battery-850-cca.asp