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Is the switch OEM or aftermarket, just curious, if you can compare dimensions ...

So you followed these instructions and nothing happened? Power window up/down, locks etc. all working ok otherwise? Might be that the "control panel" needs to be removed and the connectors cleaned, or the Driver Seat Module (underneath driver seat) may actually have an issue (disconnect, clean, reconnect, etc). Memory seat and mirrors (if equipped) This system allows automatic positioning of the driver seat and outside rearview mirrors, to two programmable positions. The memory seat control is located on the driver door. • To program position one, move the driver seat and exterior mirrors to the desired positions using the associated controls. Press the SET control. The SET control light will briefly illuminate. While the light is illuminated, press control 1. • To program position two, repeat the previous procedure using control 2. A position can only be recalled when the transmission gearshift is in Park (automatic transmission). A memory seat position may be programmed at any time. The memory seat positions are also recalled when you press your remote entry transmitter UNLOCK control and the transmitter is programmed to a memory seat position or when you enter a valid customer code 1 or 2 on the keypad. To program the memory seat to remote entry transmitter, refer to Remote entry system in the Locks and Security chapter.. Note: The seat will not travel to its final position if the key is not in the ignition and the easy entry feature is enabled.

Was this precaution taken: NOTICE: Do not press, pull or otherwise move the brake pedal while installing the stoplamp switch. The switch must be installed with the booster push rod attached to the brake pedal and with the brake pedal in the at-rest position. Installing this switch with the brake pedal in any other position will result in incorrect adjustment and may damage the switch. May need to get a new stoplamp switch to fix.

Just glad that the problem is not with the cabling, as it would cost you less to use your arm and leg as replacements than the Ford parts Which brand AGM did you go with?

Easy to R&R the EVAP purge valve on the 3.5L engined vehicle as well. Sits up on the firewall, near the throttle body, looks something like this: But if the solenoid is indicated, that is underneath the underbody shield (floorpan area).

If you think factory orange peel is bad, I hope you never have to experience body shop orange peel Major ugh!

Hate to tell you this, but in 2010, the Edge switched over to using Mercon LV, not Mercon V. For whatever reason, they chose not to wait till 2011 to make this major change. The LV spec fluid is relatively thinner, so basically on V, the trans is "choking" IMHO. So dump out the mercon V, put in mercon LV and see if that resolves the problem. The POWER STEERING still uses Mercon V, FYI.

You are right sir, forgive the typo!

x2 on what Waldo and akirby said. The 3.5 TT EB has been around since at least the 2010 MY, while the 3.5L naturally aspirated engine has been around since at least the 2007 MY (for multiple model lines, not just Edge/MKX). In the F150, the 3.5 TT EB was introduced in the 2010 MY, so there's a running joke that the other model lines (Taurus, MKS, Flex; Explorer got it in the 2013 MY) were used as a "shakedown cruise" for the F150 (Ford's biggest seller). Of course the engines are not exactly the same anyway

A positive experience emerging from this chaos! Glad you could work it out with them

I keep closer tabs on the transverse-engined vehicles, so I guess you could say for sedans/cuvs. The F150s have different/bigger turbos, their main issue was the intercooler was cooling TOO much and the condensate getting sucked into the engine. The transverse crowd, meanwhile, wants an intercooler that cools MORE. Go figure.

There have been quite a few turbo-related failures on the 3.5L engines, but how much of it was due to improper maintenance, IDK. The EB engines are Direct Injected, and as such, there's even more crap in circulation in the PCV system. This eventually finds its' way onto the turbo blades and cokes them up. Under extreme stress, some of the units out there don't get enough oil flow to keep the turbos running smoothly, or the oil line seals may leak. VERY important to use the correct engine oil weight and filter. The Motorcraft filter is one of the best in the biz. The oil can be improved upon, but please please please don't change the oil weight from that recommended. If you do, make sure you research the oil properties properly, and then assume the risk. It is very important with these engines to follow mfr's recommendations, even more so than with their naturally aspirated counterparts. I do believe they are way more reliable than turbos of yore, owing primarily to their being oil AND water-cooled, so no post-shutdown blues. Keep an eye on the PCV system, and the carbon-related issues should be minimal.

It's usually the cam phasers getting starved for oil in these newer engines that creates issues, but even that usually results in rattles that need the timing assembly to be replaced to fix. Not a bottomend blowout. Never had to use the customer helpline, but I know for a fact that the reps on here (FordService/Tricia) are very helpful, and provide guidance wherever they can. There's a separate rep for Sync/technology issues also, should you need to contact them. Need 5 posts to PM them, so you are 1 away

Did you buy your Edge new or used? No offroading, right Most of the issues are unfortunately well known to the 2011+ crowd. Living in the salt belt will accelerate rust-related issues. Having AWD, well ... Luckily, there are many brands other than Ford to choose from. What would you buy today?

Have you tried the local parts counters, might get a friendly guy who'll let you pull measurements. As far as to how well they will work with the rest of system, that's probably a good question to ask Brembo directly (what they recommend for those calipers).

Didn't your doctor say you have to quit drinking, tho???

Will have to give these a look for sure. vLEDs was at the top of my list till now

First off, welcome back, sir! It has been too long! For the uninitiated, you should look back on Dingo's previous HID lighting related posts, pretty awesome stuff. How much did you pay for these, if I may ask? And would you recommend them only with projector lighting? 2007-10's are reflector only.

Check online for warranty possibilities. Lombard Ford seems to say you can still get them. Now as to payoff vs squirreling away the money, I can't say. But since it IS used, my personal preference is to have warranty, at least for 1 year, to discover any issues that might be hiding. http://www.lombardfordwarrantys.com/ Now is your chance to take an additional $185 off our regular discounted price. This offer is only valid through February 11. To take advantage of this offer, save this promotional code: 77566 You can check with Flood Ford, Anderson Koch etc to see who gives you the best deal on warranty coverage.

The software that I have experience with provides data for parameters compatible with your vehicle. Using the data streaming from the OBD2 port, they determine the type of vehicle they are connected to, and then read the data. In Torque Pro, the list of parameters available for your vehicle are highlighted in bright green, the remainder are unhighlighted. In Forscan, all the displayed parameters are available to view and/or log, AFAIK. What specifically do you wish to know? Since the process is fairly easy, I'd recommend getting a Bluetooth OBD2 adapter + Forscan (if you only have Ford vehicles) or Torque Pro (if you want to use for non-Ford vehicles also) and playing with it. There are many helpful tips on the web on how to use the software, some videos on YouTube also.

Dang! What a way to get treated by the Edge! Sorry to hear about this latest mishap. It is relatively rare, but of course, no consolation to you Was there any sign of coolant/oil mixing? There were reports of engine porosity and some of water pump failure, either could have contributed as well. X2 on the used engine, should be plenty available by now. Be sure it is a 2011+ engine to remain compatible in function with the PCM. I've heard quotes for under $1,000 for sure for engines with 60K or so on them. Get a "longblock", you want to swap over the minimal amount of things to the "new" engine. Better yet if it comes with all the wiring/harnesses, and all you do is to R&R the block and connect up the hoses/wiring/etc. I'd go so far as to say to change out the plugs and PCV valve at least before you put the "new" engine into the Edge.

Practicality & economy = corporate foundation. They move along the average of a curve that meets their goals. The bean counters will say "No need for that additional screw if it really can be done without. You just saved XXXXXXX amount of dollars." The point being that the vehicle is basically built to be ABLE to perform, but not necessarily optimally as delivered to the consumer. So they put in Motorcraft oil, but people will tell you a hiqual full synth (hint, not Motorcraft) will do the engine that much better, improving power delivery AND mpg (though maybe not a lot of mpg, some). So we should give our forum members some leeway to make their statements, if they are only stating their own observations. For sure, no one wants other forum members to be "misled", I get that, but they have to make up their own minds all by themselves. In this case, a harmless mod. No big deal. It's better to look for ways to prove/disprove the statement, an approach of being curious, IMHO, than stating something as an outright fact that is 100% of the time.

For the 2.0L? Does it work with the 2.7L also? In any case, a tune/tune update would be required to take max advantage. Without a tune update, some additional passive cooling could be obtained for daily driving, but might adversely impact fuel mileage just a tad.

Everybody's personal experience is just that - personal experience. We don't know why mpg went up in this case, but if we can track it scientifically (since fit's driving habits are "regular") and systematically, we can explore it further. I don't think there's any harm in trying out a $50 part for a $40,000 (new) vehicle. If it works great, if not, it was worth a try EDIT: As far as what Ford does or doesn't do, ask they why there's no recall on the PTU and door latch issues. It's one big mystery to me!

2 major things fixed, that's a plus! Seems like you have a good dealer in hand