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Just wait till you use the oven to open up headlamps or the dishwasher to clean out the intake manifold

Luckily you do not have an MKX

He's not covering the fuel system/injectors, he's talking about decarbonation. Any over the counter product is NOT going to be strong enough to deal with the conditions Chris Fix was showing. Perhaps after REPEATED treatments it might work, but would take a while. Techron or if you can find BG 44K would be my preferred products for fuel system cleaning. Read their many, many testimonials on the internet. In fact, Techron (at least at one time) was specified by BMW in their owner manuals!

Stupid question on my part. The 2015's are separate bulbs for hi/low, right? ANY chance (even I think this is unlikely) that you have the DTBL lights in the high beams instead? Hi beams are 9005's, Lo beams are H11's from factory per the manual. As far as adjustment: Locate the vertical adjuster on each headlamp. Using a Phillips #2 screwdriver, turn the adjuster either clockwise or counterclockwise in order to adjust the vertical aim of the headlamp. The horizontal edge of the brighter light should touch the horizontal reference line. Perhaps you could have the dealer verify aim?

Congrats, and good luck! The X should be a great ride

The Novus kit is another product to try for defect removal from plastic parts. Step up from Plast-X, if you will.

There are a few threads related to the blower specifically, but sounds like it just needs to be replaced if all else checks out. If you are so inclined, you can take it out (behind the glovebox) and run some tests on it. But first, has the cabin air filter been changed recently? All kinds of stuff can fall in there, and clog the filter, which sits right above the blower. A clogged filter will create great resistance to air flow, making the blower work overtime, and over time, burn out. Not sure if all the trim levels have a filter element, on the 2007-10, lower trims had a plastic screen acting as a filter.

Whoa, if people can be jerks and keep needling others in their posts, then people can get as emotional as they want. All fit was looking to do was share his experience and he got taken to task for it. Wow, score one for open-mindedness, two for friendliness!

Good to know!

Sorry to hear about this happening to your Edge, must not have been the greatest experience for your wife I assume they pulled codes from the computer or they could NOT pull codes from the computer. In either case, they figured codes were set that indicated that various coil on plug ignition parts had fried, and it fit the criteria per the TSB 13-4-17. If the computer was fried, then the codes were likely lost, and same diagnostic result. Not sure how the "O-rings" play into this nor what they are referring to, but probably have to reprogram the car keys due to new computer being installed. Should not be a major part of the cost. Most of the cost should be ignition coils, spark plugs, and computer, which easily runs close to $1,600 or more with OEM parts. TSB 13-4-17_MIL ON WITH DTCS - P0351, P0352, P0353, P0354, P0355, AND OR P0356 - BUILT ON OR BEFORE 3-1-2008.pdf

No idea where FordService is these days, but ordinarily, I'd ask you to PM them and see what they can help with. Considering that Ford does provide extended warranties out to 150,000 miles, there might be a small window for you to make your argument, I think. Legally/practically speaking, they don't have to assist, of course. Did the dealership svc mgr show you any communique to that effect ,i.e., you are sure they are not putting you off? Can you try another dealership?

Well, I was pointing out examples, Wingnut asked and I provided some. I don't know that all the owners of the Edge/MKX across all the years and all countries are registered and active on this forum. So I don't know a true statistical value to put on how many units might simply be unavoidably defective. That much is true. And yeah, people like to complain too more often than compliment. Human nature. But until we know for sure, each instance should be taken seriously. People complaining about fuel tank leaks, in the end, were obviously not alone. There was a recall. Probably won't be for the glass parts here, but my point was, it takes time to get a resolution with some issues. The door latch issue is an other budding problem apparently still somewhat far out on Ford's horizon. Enough said. This thread has already been derailed enough from the OP's post ...

I was thinking of posts like these: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/18335-2015-ford-edge-crack-vista-roof-ford-wont-cover-despite-esp/ http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/7898-4-day-old-2011-edge-vista-roof-shattered/ http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/16909-ford-warranty-denies-vista-roof/

What cloth are you using, scott *know the gsm rating?)? Something off an auto detailing site, I hope

I already had the inspection done on mine and luckily it passed (escaped impound-ment). With this updated recall letter, I haven't done anything, but will soon! Will ask dealer same Q, hopefully get to snap some pics.

Neat contrast! Did you use glossifier, or stay with flat?

Sure you can replace the 20" with 18" wheels. Look up the 18" wheel OEM specs on tirerack.com and make sure you get that same effective size with the wheel/tire combo if going aftermarket. The ride will be different though, which is good and bad. Good in that it will have resistance to those everyday nasties, bad in that the response will not be the same as expected from the OEM combo. Taller sidewalls generally make for "squishier" tires, and thus decrease steering and handling response.

It matters in every case IMHO. Some parts are only worth buying OEM with Ford, such as alternators. Others are actually better from the aftermarket, like tie rods & various suspension bits, especially considering the price advantage. When it came to fuel pumps for the Taurus, we avoided the Airtex brand and preferred Walbro. And so on ... I do not know if in this specific instance if there's any difference, I wanted to know if you bought the Motorcraft replacement or another brand, out of pure curiousity. The reason I asked for measurements is following the logic of spark plugs: they need to reach into the combustion chamber a particular amount, they need to be a particular height to seat the coil/wire boot properly and seal the well. You would think the aftermarket makes sure their products are identical in the important dimensions, but sometimes the tolerances are enough out of spec so as to result in problems like the one you are having with the stoplamp switch. Sorry to be so longwinded!

Unless the Edge has suddenly gotten really heavy, the 3.5 should not be a "dog" by any means. But it is very likely that there is some calibration issue that is yet to be fixed or perhaps the computer protecting itself? The 3.5 is also now in the shadow of the forced induction twins, in corporate-speak.

Hey, don't push your luck with Ford Maybe in 5 years time, tho, who knows! All those folks with the shattered vista roof glass and rear window glass ... ugh.

Main thing is it got fixed, and it's on them May not necessarily have worked out DIY, so it's OK! Good luck, hope that is the last issue for some time.

Another "Dingo mod" Great info, sure to help out many considering LED lighting! As for the clown, those big feet, man ...

2007-10 are definitely separate units. 2011-2014 utilize the shutter for hi/lo functionality. In the 2015+ the halogens are once again separate, like the 07-10, but not sure about HID hi/lo.

Welcome aboard, Atossi! Is the Edge AWD or FWD, how much mileage? Does the issue happen at any speed, or only in a particular band? Only when engine is cold, only when warmed up (remember that trans takes longer to warm up especially in wintertime), or doesn't matter? Have you tried running some FI cleaner (Techron and BG 44K are two top choices) through the tank? Some of the more common things that might be the cause (always pull codes first on modern vehicles, by the way): Depending on mileage, it might be time to change the spark plugs and PCV valve Clogged or leaky fuel injectors Faulty wheel speed sensor(s) Since the OSS/TSS sensors were changed (can you verify?), those should not be the issue now If AWD, PTU and related hardware is always in the mix Rarer issues could include: Camshaft position sensor (does the tach ever stay at zero when you crank the engine?) Crankshaft position sensor Stripped timing gears Torque Converter By no means a comprehensive list, but some possibilities to consider.

The Odyssey is a bit on the bulky side, but otherwise they are pretty good batteries. Don't like Interstate or Diehard? Hopefully you will never need to this: