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The scratch might buff out with a fine/finishing polish like Meguiars 205 + a microfiber cloth, or maybe even Plastx. Not sure what the grille material is but usually the same products you use for the paint can work on plastics also when hand-rubbed.

macbwt has traveled long and far with his Edge(s), and has had many opportunities to DIY repairs along the way. You can tag along and watch the videos he has made, available directly at his YouTube channel here: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCJb7karK2nhyA7G1BW6xESg/videos Don't forget the commentary! You can read it here: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/18170-double-edged/ How to find his content on this forum: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/index.php?app=core&module=search&do=user_activity&search_app=forums&mid=28743&sid=9c4957ff017cbd74afa9faab45cdf00b&search_app_filters[forums][searchInKey]=&userMode=title time to add his FB and MeWe pages: https://www.facebook.com/groups/MACTFORDEDGE/ https://www.facebook.com/groups/122296998313817 https://mewe.com/group/5fbc030eedc4177fe93d6585 https://mewe.com/join/mactgarage and of course his website: https://www.mactgarage.com/

Good excuse to clean these parts out for proper drainage and air flow!

Depends on how uneven the rotors are, but without brakes applied, shouldn't be evident except at higher speeds. Even then, nothing compared to the vibrations with brakes applied. Assuming the diagnostics provided to you are spot-on of course.

Aside from the "home remedies", there's Meguiar's Water Spot remover, TarX, Tarminator, and IronX products to try if it gets to that. But I'd try a good claybar first, keeping the working area wetted down.

Very interesting! Maybe Jared (thirdgenlxi) will chime in with some tips on this

good luck!

Which wheels do you have? Not the 22's I hope? What tires did you have put on? Some of the "cheaper" tires have problems right out of the box. Heck, even the Pirelli Scorpions had bead leak issues! Also, I assume the wheel/tire were roadforce balanced? I would take them to a professional wheel repair shop and have them checked for true-ness. Then move on to the excellent suggestions made by akirby above.

Here's a couple more dealerships you could try: AutoNation Ford, Scottsdale, AZ 8555 Frank Lloyd Wright Blvd Scottsdale, AZ 85260 Phone: (480) 630-2827 Chapman Ford, Scottsdale, AZ 7100 E. McDowell Road Scottsdale, AZ 85257 Phone: 480-516-0088

Part of the problem is maintenance. Very often neglected parts of the car. And no, you should not be able to slide right in and out after the material has been properly cleaned and protected, unlike what used car dealers will tell you

Very, very nice

I think you will also have to pull the fuse for the AWD system if you remove the driveshaft so the PCM doesn't crap out on you.

Welcome to the community, Billy, congrats on picking up the new ride! I guess this is your first Ford? Hope it will make you a true believer When you post pics, please include some of your previous rides as well.

You should at the very least put a screen on the intake pipe. It's not just water, but road debris you have to be concerned with.

Jiffy Lube??? Umm ... no. If looking for just the bearings, you will have to make your Edge the guinea pig. Measure the OEM part & find equivalents at, say, NAPA. For a new driveshaft, best to go to a Ford dealer like AutoNation (should be one close to you). Used driveshafts (unknown quality) are available via EBay vendors, should be available at large junkyards like LKQ.

Check with Benny at levittownfordsupercenter.com. They have their own sponsor thread on this forum: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/10937-employee-pricing-on-all-parts-accessories/page-12 See what he can do for you re: shipping, as they are in NY. Maybe he can arrange for a local pickup? IDK. I am sure there are local alternatives available to you, including perhaps AutoNation dealerships.

That is the RDU. Wipe it down best you can, keep tabs on it for now. You might want to put it on record with the dealership also if you talk to them about the bolts, but at least you have timestamped pics as backup.

AFAIK, the bearings are not available separately, and the entire driveshaft has to be replaced. EDIT: You can see the replaceable parts shown in the diagram here - http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/PartDetail.aspx?n=6W4iwebleh9XZ15RsNneJQ%3d%3d&id=344361698&m=2&search=true&year=2007&make=Ford&model=Edge

Is that shot from where the driveshaft connects to the RDU? Do you know if it was "oily" before? Hopefully it's just the techs being messy, but it could be the rear pinion seal is going also.

My guess is they will say it is perfectly normal, especially at very low speeds. That 1-2 second delay may be a self-preserving measure implemented in the programming. Hopefully they will be able to explain it.

Have you run fuel injector cleaner yet, as suggested earlier? Check the fuel pressure at the rail. Also, try cranking for 5 seconds, stop, then try again. If the 2nd try is much quicker, there may be a fuel pump/fuel module/regulator issue. If the fuel system checks out, from filler neck to injector, then will need to look at the EVAP system next.

There should be a grommet in the firewall on the driver's side, in the vicinity of the brake booster, that you can use. That would be easiest.

Trans telling you time to change the fluid? Could be a shifter issue, a shift cable issue, needing PCM calibration update issue, etc. among other possibilities. Could even be a faulty brake on/off (stoplamp) switch reacting in a delayed fashion.

Welcome, Angela, congrats on the new ride, and regrets on the annoyance! Hope the dealer has a quick, permanent solution ...

Welcome to the forum, winboy, and congrats on the new ride