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either go all OEM or consider airbagging the suspension for customizability. Firmer options are available from KYB and Bilstein, but could get a bit much on choppy roads. Coilovers would fare even worse. I cringe at potholes in our area, even with OEM height suspension. Lowering springs would enhance the driving experience, but not where I am at, and certainly not where you are.

available options will vary by model year. please post info as requested above.

woohoo!!! that's AWESOME.

Watch MACT videos on YouTube for replacement. The camera he used is linked, and goes to his Amazon affiliate account.

I would run a pro level fuel system cleaner like BG 44K through the system. Equally important is cleaning the MAF sensor and throttle body. Did you clear codes after the injector/coil/plug work, and have them come back afterwards? I have yet to hear of a PCM issue with 2011+ MY vehicles related to misfires. It has been plugs or injectors, never coils unless a substantial amount of mileage has been accumulated. Granted yours is only 10K miles annually but it is not just sitting around. Ford moved the coil driver wiring around in 2011+ MYs compared to 2007-2010, where they were all bunched together. You may actually have a bad wire between the coil and PCM. Very rare, but it happens. A replacement PCM would not resolve this issue ... Test the resistance values. BTW you can pick up coils relatively cheap as the 2011+ use the same coils as 2007-2010. Ford makes a kit due to Gen 1 issues, and the coils can be used for 2011+. plugs and gaskets are different. P/N BA5Z-12259-A search at any online Ford dealer website, it is not openly listed. If asked for your MY of vehicle, specify 2007 or 2008 to avoid being hassled. OR order from swagperformance on ebay. shipping times are currently quite faster than dealers, who may take 3 weeks or more. EDIT: PCMs can be repaired by a service such as circuitboardmedics.com

preferred protection? was it not a Ford warranty? Ford's powertraincare or basecare warranty would have been enough to cover this type of repair. ya, definitely be ready to take that dealer to the cleaners. they may have sold you a load of hooey.

on an ecoboost engine, yes you COULD run 87 or 90 octane fuel. but with tuning, the reward really lies with premium (93 except in certain areas). Gearhead makes auto-octane tunes, but most require you to load the tune appropriate to the octane of fuel you will be running. And you can ask your tuner to tune for power or economy. Tho it would be a shame to tune the Sport for economy IMHO.

I would be happy with 1.48 million HP.

may be worth flushing the power steering fluid again. that lip may be in the rack OR the steering column itself.

Welcome and enjoy!

let the vehicle sit undisturbed for 8+ 2 hrs after engine shutoff and removal of any aftermarket devices from power points/depowering of devices that continue to consume battery power after ending shutoff.

Is it random lights going on or off, or the same ones each time? I suppose no pics are available since these show up while driving ... flashing check engine lights are misfires, if that's any help. check for codes with an OBD scanner. you can DIY with a Veepeak $11 bluetooth device and Forscan Lite software for your smartphone/tablet.

If you are Stateside, you can check Walmart for deals on the K&N cabin filters. Have gotten as low as 15$ a pop

if the clip is the part that is broken, yes that is the kit you need. replaces plastic with metal, should last quite a bit longer. sunroof doctor has come to the rescue of many a Ford vehicle over the decades.

are you looking for this https://parts.levittownfordparts.com/v-2007-ford-edge--sel--3-5l-v6-gas/body--sunroof not sure the part is sold separately by Ford if it is what i am thinking of. there is one person who has made these on custom order, but a minimum order # has to be met for him to even be interested. you may want to look into a 3d printing service.

nice

did they use a motorcraft axle on the pass side the second time around? how often have you serviced the power steering fluid? have you noticed any lack of steering assist? When last did you service the plugs/pcv valve/MAF sensor/throttle body? not that i necessarily think this is the prime culprit, but good to know. same for transmission fluid history. i would look up an independent service center using a resource such as paypal.com and have them get you a second opinion. Or find a Lincoln dealership and have them take a look.

on our Fusion Sport, we had to replace the fuses underhood to get power. but it is also fairly commonplace to find that spillage of liquids like coffee and soda have compromised the power point. you will want to check both possibilities. if you are trying to do this with the vehicle off and key out of ignition, it may be that the power point is turned off/disabled. i am told that on a 2011, the power points are always on, but IDK if it is the same for 2013. Owner manual here https://drive.google.com/file/d/1MCFjEgCauCwXAIKnEfvxQVUzxpHrjsln/view?usp=sharing

depending on which type of cluster you have, the way to get to it will be different thru the menu system. I assume the SEL has the basic cluster as the OP shows, but IDK. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1a8k_qyYLkOMuvV8VyYHOlJDcwHpbMbkC/view?usp=sharing pg 18/21. Main Menu, then Information, then enable Coolant Temp.

Codes only set when event thresholds are met/exceeded. A certain number of events in succession are considered normal for any parameter being monitored. If the problem is intermittent, that can make it harder to catch. MAF sensor codes set rather quickly, as you can see by disconnecting the sensor and driving off. Fun times lol. If "normal" FI cleaner does not work, I usually turn to BG 44K. yes, MAF and TB cleaning are great ideas. Keep in mind that your 2011 MY has been susceptible to throttle body failure, so maybe inspect and clean the TPS as well. Not expensive/difficult to replace if so desired. O2 sensors don't normally fail on this powertrain, and in the absence of codes or data log showing lazy/unresponsive sensors, would not change them out at this point. Instead check knock counts to see if the knock sensor is at issue. RARE on this engine, have seen a few on the 3.5 EB engines due to wire chafing not actual sensor failure. Check fuel pressure also, a weak fuel pump or fuel pump control module can prompt issues. It is possible at the speeds you are stating the torque converter is at issue. When did you last drain/fill the transmission? It should be done at a minimum every 5/60 interval from mile 0. If it is due, i suggest doing a 4x D/F with Valvoline Maxlife Full Syn ATF (red jug). If that makes a difference, add in a tube (or two) of Lubegard Shudder Fixx. Catching the issue early on means better longterm "fix". As long as there are no rattles or problems with power loss, most likely the issue is very correctable.

they should make this new hose standard for the product.

the tsb in question https://drive.google.com/file/d/1n1VwirOf-6hcIyzRRdyI47oSKqD9FvL_/view?usp=sharing wasn't aware of a recall for this issue ...

charge the battery with a smart charger. driving will not bring it back to life, it is too far gone for that. you can put it on a pulse charger for some time, but you have to monitor it periodically for voltage and temperature. or as YT videos show, if it is an AGM battery, put it in series with a known good SLA battery and get the voltage up to above 11V. Then you can charge the AGM battery directly. Or get a new battery and keep it charged. If not driven much, or not far at highway speeds, it probably needs to be on a tender on a regular basis.

you can probably have one milled out for you by a custom shop, but readytogo i only know of BBK.

sweet