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I've heard that while the warranty is good, you do end up spending a lot more time in the shop with these Korean makes. Is that still true?

Main thing is to make sure they doublecheck the factory fill on the PTU, that it should not be low. If you can have them put in Amsoil or another hiperformance PTU fluid, that would be a bonus.

20% off Ford OEM Remote Start Kits on Levittown!!! http://www.levittownfordsupercenter.com/ford-edge-c-24.html

Any other symptoms to go with? AWD or FWD? The OSS/TSS sensors in the transmission could be starting to give, causing that jerkiness while driving. Clogged/leaky fuel injectors from dirty fuel or Edge sitting around too long can also cause the symptoms in their early stages. One or more coils starting to go, eventually creating a need for PCM repair/replacement. Is there any damage to the underside of the body (under the passenger compartment)? That might be hiding a damaged EVAP canister. With any luck, if there IS an EVAP issue, it's the purge valve located on the firewall, very easy to replace, not very expensive. So your fix might be any/combo/all of these things: Replace the OSS/TSS sensors (good time to do transmission 3x drain & fill; if fluid has no debris, flush next time) Run fuel injector cleaner through the tank (Techron or BG 44K recommended for best results). Fuel system dryer like HEET might also work, but would want to run cleaner afterwards anyway. Clean the Throttle Body (do not use carburetor or brake cleaner, use MAF sensor or electronic parts cleaner) Replace the EVAP purge valve Replace coils & repair/replace PCM

From my understanding, it is the electrical contacts inside the controller that get dirty and stop functioning properly, not unlike the door latches. So you COULD try cleaning and reusing, but YMMV ...

Ruh-Roh. Hope this "volunteer" work did not get you into any trouble!

A leak from the case halves? Definitely not normal. Could be case porosity or simply a poor gasket. You have verified after cleaning up the area that this is indeed where the leak is coming from?

Welcome to the community, Tom, glad to have ya join us! Nice rides, BTW

Do you know if the wiring/logic for the BAMR goes through the SJB also, enigma?

Probably the drip hose that allows condensation from the evaporator core to exit the vehicle? http://www.techchoiceparts.com/evaporator-core

Not sure on the rear. The usual jack/lift points are just forward of the rear wheels. Front wheels chock-blocked of course.

Good luck, the Edge should be running like a top after the plug/PCV change!

Is that 40W or 40W equivalent?

That'd be really good if the problem is limited to the spark plugs, caught it just in time. Excessive resistance from spark plug wear = consequences for PCM & coils.

Poring through the manuals, looking at TStat replacement, came across this blurb: NOTICE: Motorcraft® Specialty Green Engine Coolant is very sensitive to light. Do NOT allow this product to be exposed to ANY LIGHT for more than a day or two. Extended light exposure causes this product to degrade. What the heck? So heat is not a problem, but light is? How you like 'em apples!!!

Upper set only. The manifold you take off for spark plug/PCV valve replacement is the upper manifold. I got Victor Reinz MS19557 off EBay, IIRC. Victor Reinz is one of the top gasket makers IMHO, they make some really good stuff. http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2652682&jsn=__GIX__3__ Alternate/OEM Part Number(s): 7T4Z9H486DA RockAuto has a nice price on it at $4.61 FelPro part # MS 97120 if you want that.

The Novus kit is usually the go to for plastic, but you can try the other products I mentioned above.

Only gaskets you need will be the manifold gaskets, FelPro or Motorcraft should work fine. They say you can reuse, but the gaskets are so cheap ...

Motorcraft for the win! SP411's for 2007-10. Gap should be tested with a feeler gauge, should be 0.054-0.057. Be careful NOT to touch the center electrode if adjusting the ground strap. Do not adjust the ground strap back & forth, that will weaken it.

Well done Hope this will be the last you see of the nasty vent leak issue. Just wish you could have found a way to include the king of jury rigging - duct tape

Dan at DriveBright.com/DTBL offers HID kits for the Edge, and has an install video up on YT as well. It is very DIY, does appear to require a bit of time and patience. http://drivebright.com/home/shop/hid-headlight-replacement-kit-new/

The dampers are a feature on the 2011+. They are not OEM on the 2007-10. If your brakes are Ford/Motorcraft parts, consider going aftermarket to get rid of this problem. I have the Power Stop kit on mine, macbwt had installed the AutoZone hicarbon parts on his, IIRC. If you have AWD, might also be an issue similar to that on the Escape, but the RDU could also need servicing/replacement.