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3/8" square drive for the fill plug. FSM may mention installing a new plug each time, not sure if people do that tho. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/10914-ptu-leak-failures/?do=findComment&comment=89533 Something like this http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CMDPBM/ or this http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00265M9SS/ or this http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GU0MMU/ should work. you can also rig your own to a small size shopvac with a reservoir in between if you want to automate.

If you are up to it, you can repeat the drain & fill a few times with enough driving in between to warm & mix the old & new fluids. 3 or 4 times should get you pretty close to ultimately having new fluid in the PTU. The fill line is about 1 inch or so below where the fluid starts coming out of the fill plug hole. Initially it can be a very slow, time-consuming, patience-testing, and olfactory-murdering process. The other option is to find a BG shop that will do it for you in 1 go. Not many have tapped a drain hole into the PTU, probably for fear of completely ruining it with metal shavings from the drilling. This would be a great way to allow periodic maintenance though.

Welcome, Robalo! Great mods list, the next mod should be to post pics of your ride

Neat and tidy

How did the studs break? Were the winter wheels not sitting right? Better make sure the KMCs are torqued properly! Ugh.

All drives on FAT32?

Evaporative Emission Canister Item Part Number Description 1 — Evaporative Emission (EVAP) canister vent solenoid electrical connector (part of 14A005) 2 9E857 EVAP canister 3 — Fuel vapor tube (part of 9S327) 4 9G676 EVAP canister vent solenoid/dust separator 5 W705681 EVAP canister pin-type retainer 6 W710330 EVAP canister bolt (3 required) 7 — Fuel vapor tube-to- EVAP canister quick connect coupling (part of 9S284) 8 — Fuel vapor tube assembly-to- EVAP canister quick connect coupling (part of 9S284) Fuel Vapor Tube Assembly Item Part Number Description 1 N811781 Fuel tank strap bolt (4 required) 2 9092 Fuel tank strap (2 required) 3 9002 Fuel tank Item Part Number Description 1 14A464 Fuel Tank Pressure (FTP) sensor electrical connector 2 — Fuel tank fuel vapor tube assembly-to-fuel pump module quick connect coupling (part of 9D667) 3 — Fuel tank tube-to-fuel tank fuel vapor tube quick connect coupling (part of 9002) 4 — Fuel tank fuel vapor tube assembly-to-Evaporative Emission (EVAP) canister fuel vapor tube assembly quick connect coupling (part of 9D667) 5 9D667 Fuel tank fuel vapor tube assembly 6 — EVAP canister fuel vapor tube assembly-to-canister quick connect coupling (part of 9D667) 7 9D667 EVAP canister fuel vapor tube assembly Fuel Lines — 3.5L, 3.7L - Middle Fuel Supply and Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Vapor Tubes Item Part Number Description 8 — Middle brake tube-to-front brake tube fitting (part of 9S284) 9 — Front brake tube-to-middle brake tube fitting (part of 9C296) 10 — Front brake tube-to-middle brake tube fitting (part of 9C296) 11 — Middle brake tube-to-front brake tube fitting (part of 9S284) 12 — Front EVAP vapor tube quick connect coupling-to-middle EVAP vapor tube (part of 9J280) 13 — Front fuel supply tube quick connect coupling-to-middle fuel supply tube (part of 9J280) 14 W707137 Bundle retainer clip nut (2 required) 15 — Middle EVAP vapor tube quick connect coupling-to- EVAP canister (part of 9S284) 16 — Middle EVAP vapor tube quick connect coupling-to- EVAP canister (part of 9S284) 17 — Middle brake tube fitting-to-rear brake hose (part of 9S284) 18 — Middle brake tube fitting-to-rear brake tube fitting (part of 9S284) 19 — Rear brake tube fitting-to-middle brake tube fitting (part of 2265) 20 9S284 Middle fuel supply and EVAP vapor tube assembly AERO/EVAP Shields

Thought I'd post a link to a prev discussion ... http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/19581-hood-moves-up-and-down-on-highway-cause-speeding-ticket/

What files are included in the update? Did you unzip and put the unzipped files on the USB drive, or copy over as is?

Sounds like possibly line pressures are not what they should be. This could be caused by sludge accumulation/worn out fluid, or of course, one of the solenoids actually wearing out. Not sure of the fluid history on the trans, but I would recommend having it flushed with either BG (assuming current fluid looks good and has no particulates), or put in Amsoil trans fluid. Both these approaches should work splendidly, IF the whine is indeed trans related. Would free up sticking valves & solenoids, which absolutely hate heat. Have you checked power steering just in case? If the fluid is not a healthy pink color, or it smells burnt, you should drain & refill it (easiest with turkey baster method, video'd by macbwt), or have it flushed. If there are leaks, look into replacing the p/s hoses (and filter if there is one).

Welcome, nice ride!

Lombards and Anderson Koch are two other dealerships you can compare for best pricing.

Usually there is a grommet on the firewall near the brake booster that can be used to run additional/custom wiring. If it does not provide enough access, drilling through is likely the next best option.

Does your mechanic have access to ChassisEARS or some such product, that would help localize the sound. I would suspect axle/CV joint, then maybe the power steering system.

Glad you taught your daughter well, enigma

Should be a bit easier on the 4-banger EBs than the v6 for sure!

Readiness for Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) Testing pg 173 Some state, provincial and local governments may have Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) programs to inspect the emission control equipment on your vehicle. Failure to pass this inspection could prevent you from getting a vehicle registration. If the service engine soon indicator is on or the bulb does not work, the vehicle may need to be serviced. See On-board Diagnostics (OBD-II) in this chapter. Your vehicle may not pass the I/M test if the service engine soon indicator is on or not working properly (bulb is burned out), or if the OBD-II system has determined that some of the emission control systems have not been properly checked. In this case, the vehicle is considered not ready for I/M testing. If the vehicle’s engine or transmission has just been serviced, or the battery has recently run down or been replaced, the OBD-II system may indicate that the vehicle is not ready for I/M testing. To determine if the vehicle is ready for I/M testing, turn the ignition key to the on position for 15 seconds without cranking the engine. If the service engine soon indicator blinks eight times, it means that the vehicle is not ready for I/M testing; if the service engine soon indicator stays on solid, it means that the vehicle is ready for I/M testing. The OBD-II system is designed to check the emission control system during normal driving. A complete check may take several days. If the vehicle is not ready for I/M testing, the following driving cycle consisting of mixed city and highway driving may be performed: 15 minutes of steady driving on an expressway or highway followed by 20 minutes of stop-and-go driving with at least four 30-second idle periods. Allow the vehicle to sit for at least eight hours without starting the engine. Then, start the engine and complete the above driving cycle. The engine must warm up to its normal operating temperature. Once the engine is started, do not turn off the engine until the above driving cycle is complete. If the vehicle is still not ready for I/M testing, the above driving cycle will have to be repeated.

It's fairly straightforward, and as specified in the OM pg 280 or so under the Maintenance section: When the battery is disconnected or a new battery installed, the automatic transmission must relearn its adaptive strategy. As a result of this, the transmission may shift firmly when first driven. This operation is considered normal and will fully update transmission operation to its optimum shift feel. If the battery has been disconnected or a new battery has been installed, the clock and the preset radio stations must be reset once the battery is reconnected. Note: Always dispose of automotive batteries in a responsible manner. Follow your local authorized standards for disposal. Call your local authorized recycling center to find out more about recycling automotive batteries. Because your vehicle’s engine is electronically controlled by a computer, some control conditions are maintained by power from the battery. When the battery is disconnected or a new battery is installed, the engine must relearn its idle and fuel trim strategy for optimum driveability and performance. To begin this process: 1. With the vehicle at a complete stop, set the parking brake. 2. Put the gearshift in P (Park), turn off all accessories and start the engine. 3. Run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature. 4. Allow the engine to idle for at least one minute. 5. Turn the A/C on and allow the engine to idle for at least one minute. 6. Drive the vehicle to complete the relearning process. • The vehicle may need to be driven 10 miles (16 km) or more to relearn the idle and fuel trim strategy. • Note: If you do not allow the engine to relearn its idle trim, the idle quality of your vehicle may be adversely affected until the idle trim is eventually relearned. Probably more critical to do if you are driving the Edge for very short trips normally. But if you routinely do city/highway trips, it may take longer, but will relearn as you drive. The Emissions drive cycle is touchier and should be followed strictly, if you disconnect the battery and are within a few days/less than 200 miles (city/hwy mix) of getting the Edge tested.

I have tried Strongarm and Monroe brands. Each lasted about 1 year for me: still working, but cold weather performance subpar. I just installed the Sachs product a week ago. Let's see if there's any difference, may try AMS if not. I don't open the liftgate everyday, maybe that makes a difference also?

The power point fuses are in the underhood fuse box, in which case the OM says to disconnect battery first before replacing. Don't know if that's really necessary or not, but that's what the OM says. Hate the thought of having to go through the PCM relearn just for this, but ...

Something like this, maybe: https://www.hidetheplate.com/

Welcome to the Edge family, Galaxiedriver, please do post pics of your rides, past & present

Glad you were able to remove those pesky plug boots! I usually use an extra long needlenosed pliers or hemostat (harbor freight) for this type of job.

Last year, when I submitted the rebate form & WalMart was still not "authorized", I did receive the rebate.

Look at parts diagrams/numbers here: https://secure.revolutionparts.com/levittown-ford/auto-parts/2007/ford/edge/sel-trim/3-5l-v6-gas-engine/engine-cat/engine-and-trans-mounting-scat No. Part # Part # / Description List Price Price 1 8T4Z-6038-A 8T4Z-6038-A / FRONT MOUNT, RIGHT $175.90 $119.26 2 7A1Z-6038-AA 7A1Z-6038-AA / FRONT MOUNT, LEFT $136.23 $92.37 3 8M8Z-6038-A 8M8Z-6038-A / ENGINE BRACKET, RIGHT $55.67 $37.74 4 8T4Z6031B 8T4Z6031B / ENGINE BRACKET, LEFT - - 5 -W711873-S439 -W711873-S439 / ENGINE BRACKET BOLT $6.57 $3.72 6 -W711872-S900 -W711872-S900 / ENGINE BRACKET NUT $3.59 $2.02 7 7T4Z-6K075-BA 7T4Z-6K075-BA / UPPER SUPPORT $7.47 $5.06 8 7T4Z-6K075-AA 7T4Z-6K075-AA / LOWER SUPPORT $10.00 $6.78 9 8T4Z6068A 8T4Z6068A / TRANS MOUNT TO 1/10/08 - - 10 7T4Z-6C038-A 7T4Z-6C038-A / HEAT SHIELD $20.78 $14.09 11 7T4Z-6E042-AA 7T4Z-6E042-AA / BRACKET $19.58 $13.28