WWWPerfA_ZN0W

sounds to me like you need the BBK if you don't have it already lol

Cleaning hasn't been the issue, so I don't see Seafoam doing much of anything unless you have bad varnish buildup in the engine. Cushioning is provided by additives like Molybdenum and full synthetic base components like ester oils. It will be trial and error as to which oil works in this regard. Some have reported Amsoil is effective. In my testing thus far, Driven FR20 has been quite effective. As to +ve effects on wear/longevity, IDK.

best of luck then. you may have one of the good ones. this is the mileage generally stuff shows up so, fingers crossed.

This is awesome!

yes knock sensors are integral to the amount of timing advance / retard. the tstat is the first step. next is having the fans come on earlier and stay on longer, if you like to frequently stomp on the happy pedal. finally, get a better intercooler. all having been developed and put in production already.

with a 2018, sorry to say, you need to check if you have a Cleveland built engine. check for a 420 or 422 on the label on the pass side of the valve cover. if you could post the label here, even better. these particular blocks are known for coolant intrusion into the cylinders, the only fix being block replacement with a VEP block or remachined Cleveland block. =============

vibration at higher speeds may be improperly torqued lug nuts or a cracked/bent wheel. worth a check. disuse is equivalent to Ford's special operating conditions for the powertrain. time or mileage. neither can be ignored. although the resulting problems may be different, the end result to you is the same: lack of smooth operation.

Codes don't get stored for every event. For any code to set, it has to meet threshold conditions set by Ford. Errors a certain number of times, in successions, until the threshold is crossed. This is to keep oneoff errors from setting unnecessary codes. Due to being mechanical systems controlled by electronics, there has to be this leeway built in. test the purge valve for vacuum, pretty straightforward. you can also monitor any obd data once the ignition key is turned to on, without engine being started. Forscan Lite is built specifically for Fords, and it is pretty good at this. Paired with a Bluetooth adapter (or Wifi adapter), it can give you gobs of data, in this case on EVAP systems and fuel trims, that would help you pinpoint the problem from the electronics side of things. Did you check the PATS light? It is supposed to flash every 2-3 seconds IIRC if the fob is recognized when the ignition is turned to ON. if it is not recognized, it will flash rapidly. just a checkpoint, tho if the starter turns over, this should NOT be the issue. The fuel pump MAY be weak, and need the twice priming to work. But check the purge valve first. Since you have to drop the tank in a 2010 to replace the fuel pump, I'd rather it be the purge valve, LOL. They did away with the floor access for fuel pumps sometime in late Gen 1, unfortunately, along with the Schrader valve on the fuel rail. Insane to me, but I guess due to tightening emissions requirements or something.

nice writeup!

can you tell us some basic info: year, model, trim level, manual or automatic climate control? this sounds like a mode door issue if air is not coming out from where it is supposed to. temperature control is via blend door actuators.

if it's not the line, it's the seal, lol. had an owner who had trouble with oem replacement brake lines not fitting properly. but yes, much more likely with aftermarket.

Welcome! In the performance category: a) maintenance all fluids b) get a tune such as from unleashedtuning.com c) upgrade to Bilstein B6 shocks/struts d) for body launching stopping power, big brake kit (various mfrs) Looks: a) raptor grille b) euro fog lights (custom mounting brackets needed)

only applies to 2011+ MY vehicles. there is a place in the center console that you can put a fob in that will allow you to start the vehicle, if all other methods fail. Some codes on these MYs will also prevent remote starting of the vehicle (safety reasons, as people let their vehicles idle). Does not apply to 2010. Definitely check the purge valve on the firewall. It should hold vacuum with the engine off. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZvLOLXf2HfE

could be right about the purge valve if it is flooding the engine with vapors on first try. check if it holds vacuum with engine off. yes, all fobs have batteries and transponders. if the transponder is failing and does not communicate with the PATS ring in the vehicle, then you will not be able to crank at all. the battery I believe is for remote functions, maybe also for transponder functions but not sure on that.

have them check the battery also while u have it at the store, not only V but CCAs. Unless it is cranking strong the first time. check fob battery, may need replacement. if the PATS/security light flashes rapidly, the engine won't crank at all, and you will need to source a replacement fob. Depending on mileage, the crank sensor may be suspect also. Rare for them to fail completely, but they do, especially in hot climates.

Welcome! X2 on pics!!!

you can find capacities & specs here https://www.mactgarage.com/gen-2-ford-edge-capacities-and-spec The 2.0 is the only one without a dipstick. It is somewhat hidden by the intake on the other 2. Starting pg 269 in the owners manual https://drive.google.com/file/d/1u4qXpNzk-A_ViSu16WEItOr9y4VlwA-E/view?usp=sharing btw, worth bookmarking owner.ford.com for more handy info and coupons etc.

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doing it immediately after fueling is indicative of an EVAP system issue, usually the purge valve.

L5? are these Volvo customers? ? awesome these are getting snapped up, kudos!

sweetness

the start sequence does not require you to hold the key in the start position, just needs you initiate it. once you release the key, the starter should keep trying to crank for 10 seconds automatically, then stop, under NORMAL conditions. i would also check the crank sensor for a good signal. i know you replaced it and other parts, but did you use OEM or aftermarket? not to put too fine a point on it, but in many things electronic, especially in the powertrain, aftermarket has been iffy. ============= Starting System The starting system consists of the following: Starter motor Starter motor relay Transmission Range (TR) sensor Battery Ignition switch PCM Start diode When the starter solenoid is energized, a magnetic field is created in the starter solenoid windings. The iron plunger core is drawn into the starter solenoid coil, and a drive lever and pin connected to the starter drive engages the drive pinion gear to the flexplate ring gear. When the plunger is pulled all the way in, its contact disc closes the circuit between the battery and the motor feed terminals. This sends current to the motor, and the drive pinion gear cranks the flexplate to start the engine. When current flows to the starter motor, the starter solenoid pull-in coil is bypassed, and the hold-in coil keeps the drive pinion gear engaged with the flexplate. An overrunning clutch in the starter drive protects the starter motor from excessive speeds during the brief period before the driver releases the ignition switch from the START position as the engine starts. The starting system uses a TR sensor located in the transmission. The TR sensor prevents operation of the starter motor unless NEUTRAL or PARK is selected. The vehicle has One-Touch Integrated Start (OTIS), a computer-assisted cranking system. This feature assists in starting the engine. If the ignition key is turned to the START position and released when the engine begins cranking, the engine may continue cranking for up to 10 seconds or until the vehicle starts. One-Touch Integrated Start (OTIS) Once the ignition is turned to the START position and the vehicle is in NEUTRAL or PARK, the PCM reads starter motor request from the ignition switch and gains control of the starter engagement. The customer is no longer in the loop after the initial crank request, the customer may release the key to the RUN/START position. The PCM will disengage the starter motor based on the following events: The engine is started (rpm threshold) A set time has been exceeded (calibrated) The ignition key has been turned to the OFF position

Welcome, sweet ride.

could be an issue with the battery, starter, or fuel pump. check battery voltage and CCAs with a digital tester. if you only hear click-click-click of the starter, or if the starter keeps going after engine fires up, look at how many amps it is drawing and if there is excessive resistance in the wiring. check fuel pressure. i am ruling out the PATS system for now, but fobs/transponders could have some involvement if the battery or the electronics are failing.