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Has your Edge ever been recalibrated? You should check the dealer to learn about the current calibration available. Ford has addressed many an issue that way. Also, does it make any difference whether the Edge is on level ground or an incline? Come to a complete stop before shifting to Reverse? The power loss issue is likely to be the TSS/OSS sensors (as mac pointed out). Eventually you will get an ODO DATA ERROR message in the instrument cluster if you let it go long enough.

Any pics/diagrams/procedures to share?

so no plastic tanks for us, eh? bummer?

You might want to try blowing out the AC drain tube (it's a 2 piece, pull back the carpeting next to driverside console to see the joint), and running some AC foaming cleaner up the upper half of the tube to clean the evaporator coils. Hopefully that's all it needs. Next step would be, like mac said, to get refrigerant levels checked. Hopefully there's no damaged components/leaks, and it just needs a fill.

They encounter the same problems as ours. There are cooled & monitored versions for the SHO PP, Taurus & Explorer Interceptors, but those also have a drain plug for regular maintenance (!). No idea if it will mate to the 6F50 trans, part number seems to be the same tho https://secure.revolutionparts.com/levittown-ford/ford/taurus/at4z7251d/2012-year/sho-trim/3-5l-v6-gas-engine/transfer-case-cat/transfer-case-scat/?part_name=transfer-case

I don't think this is the issue, but check the coolant level with the Edge on level ground and engine off & at ambient temps. The overflow/degas bottle should have coolant up to the COLD FULL mark. Low coolant can show up as an AC problem also.

I know macbwt did a video on the 2011 rear brakes, not sure about his 2008. All kinds of fun stuff on his channel https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCJb7karK2nhyA7G1BW6xESg/videos Do you have the instructions for the rear brakes? You have a 2007-10 Edge, right? EDIT: If the 2008 matches 2007 instructions, it doesn't say anywhere that you have to deal with the EBrake. Now if you are removing the brake disc shield or the caliper support plate, yes, the EBrake comes into play. Brake Rotor/Disc Removal Remove the wheel and tire assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 204-04 . CAUTION: Do not allow the brake caliper and anchor plate assembly to hang from the brake hose or damage to the hose can occur. Remove the 2 brake caliper anchor plate bolts and position the brake caliper and anchor plate assembly aside. Support the brake caliper and anchor plate assembly using mechanic's wire. Remove the brake disc.Installation Clean and dry the brake disc-to-hub mounting surface and apply a thin coat of anti-seize lubricant where indicated. Install the brake disc onto the wheel hub. Position the brake caliper and anchor plate assembly and install the 2 brake caliper anchor plate bolts. Tighten to 55 Nm (41 lb-ft). Install the wheel and tire assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 204-04 .Test the brakes for normal operation.Brake Pads Removal WARNING: Use of any other than approved DOT 3 brake fluid will cause permanent damage to brake components and will render the brakes inoperative. Failure to follow these instructions may result in personal injury. WARNING: Carefully read cautionary information on product label. For EMERGENCY MEDICAL INFORMATION seek medical advice. In the USA or Canada on Ford/Motorcraft products call: 1-800-959-3673. For additional information, consult the product Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) if available. Failure to follow these instructions may result in personal injury. CAUTION: Brake fluid is harmful to painted and plastic surfaces. If brake fluid is spilled onto a painted or plastic surface, immediately wash it with water. Check the brake fluid level in the brake master cylinder reservoir. If required, remove the fluid until the brake master cylinder reservoir is 1/2 full. Remove the wheel and tire assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 204-04 . CAUTION: Do not pry in the caliper sight hole to retract the pistons, as this can damage the pistons and boots. CAUTION: Do not allow the brake caliper to hang from the brake hose or damage to the hose can occur. Remove the 2 brake caliper guide pin bolts and position the caliper aside. Support the caliper using mechanic's wire. CAUTION: Install new brake pads if they are worn past the specified thickness above the metal backing plates. Install new brake pads in complete axle sets. Remove the 2 brake pads, shims and slide clips. Inspect the brake pads and shims for wear, damage or contamination. Discard the slide clips. Installation CAUTION: Protect the caliper piston and boots when pushing the caliper piston into the bores. NOTE: Make sure the caliper piston boot is clean and free of foreign material. If installing new brake pads, using a suitable tool and a worn brake pad, compress the disc brake caliper pistons into the caliper. Install the 2 brake pads, shims and new slide clips to the brake caliper anchor plate. CAUTION: Make sure that the caliper guide pin boots are fully seated or damage to the caliper guide pin boots can occur. NOTE: Make sure that the brake caliper hose is not twisted during caliper installation. Position the brake caliper on the anchor plate and install the 2 guide pin bolts. Tighten to 26 Nm (19 lb-ft). Install the wheel and tire assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 204-04 .Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir with clean, specified brake fluid.Test the brakes for normal operation.

Labor costs are what get you, TBH. The parts aren't that expensive once they have been in use for a couple of MYs. The problem is that getting to the part that failed is a major PITA. I find that in a lot of cases, the banjo bolts that Ford puts in end up leaking or clogging, causing problems. It's not the big items, but the small items are co-located with the big items, so the labor ends up being practically the same. Modern engine packaging for ya.

Didn't someone recently use Forscan to update their backup camera software? EDIT: Found the thread, maybe wlepse will chime in ... http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/20314-idsscan-tool/?hl=forscan&do=findComment&comment=150602

Engine oil. Still nothing, zip, nada on PTU fluid change In older MYs, the maintenance guide Ford puts out for cars/trucks/SUVs did say 60K fluid changes in event of special operating conditions, but no idea on the 2015/16.

Haven't read about the clock issue, but definitely the CD skipping/playing issue causing battery to run down (or maybe vice versa). The fix is usually to replace the head unit. You can try cleaning the CD player, but probably won't fix the issue for any length of time. EDIT: More information found using the search function and keywords "cd battery dead". You might want to get the battery tested with a digital load tester to make sure it's still in good condition.

Very true, that may actually work now that the IOLM is actually trying to take the type of driving into account (pg 403): When to expect the message prompting you to change your oil Interval Vehicle use and example Normal 7500-10000 miles (12000-16000 km) Normal commuting with highway driving No, or moderate, load or towing Flat to moderately hilly roads No extended idling Severe 5000-7499 miles (8000-11999 km) Moderate to heavy load or towing Mountainous or off-road conditions Extended idling Extended hot or cold operation Extreme 3000-4999 miles (4800-7999 km) Maximum load or towing Extreme hot or cold operation

Don't see a mention in the manual either, pfft This is where screenshots of the live product come in handy, so we know what we are actually dealing with!

With turbo engines, maintenance schedules are even more important than with the naturally aspirated ones. Indulge the vehicle with frequent oil changes, follow the severe duty schedule for that, especially if using the Motorcraft SynBlend 5W30 oil. This is one area you DON'T want to skimp on. The PCV system can be problematic on Ecoboost engines, though less so than many other manufacturers' turbo products. Also look into a Ford ESP warranty, if you like to "prepay" your way. Aftermarket warranties have not held up against Ford's. I think you can decide up to the end of the new car warranty whether you want the best/maximum coverage, though price does go up a bit.

Platform ladders probably would be safest, on a flat driveway/parking lost. Either that, or you hire someone to do it for you

This is all the FSM has about it: Item Part Number Description 1 W715452 Engine appearance cover nut - 2 Nm (18 lb-in) 2 6N958 Engine appearance cover retainer (2 required) 3 — Engine appearance cover retainer (part of 6N041) 4 6N041 Engine appearance cover — LH 5 6N041 Engine appearance cover — RH

Exactly as Nick said, this is a classic issue (search for finger, shadow on the forum, you'll see). You might have to trim one of the tabs to rotate the bulb in the socket for that "finger" from the return wire to "disappear". EDIT: This thread should help: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/11455-hids-help-ddm-tuning/page-2

Any options in the instrument cluster for lighting? The Titanium and Sport are listed in the brochure as having ambient lighting, so I'd hope that's actually true. EDIT: You have Sync3, right? I think if you are on the Home Screen, you will see SETTINGS in the lower right hand corner. Select that, then look for the AMBIENT LIGHTING option. You can adjust from there. Tap a color once to active ambient lighting. This sets the color to the highest intensity. You can drag the colors up and down to increase or decrease the intensity. To switch ambient lighting off, press the active color once or drag the active color all the way down to zero intensity. The manual is available here: http://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/Catalog/owner_information/SYNC-3-Supplement-version-2_sycsy_EN-US_10_2015.pdf Pg 97 It is unfortunate the thing is so skimpy on pics.

Perfect backdrop for a scifi poster, it's so unreal ...

Wow, looks great!

Water beading/sheeting is the most commonly used tell sign that I know of.

Too early to bag it and tag it, I'd hope with the new 2.7L engine they would try to put their best foot forward. Unless the bean counters still felt the PTU is no issue Definitely no harm in recommending maintenance intervals for the PTU, regardless, but at this point, for the 15+, it is a precautionary note. Hopefully someone will take a look inside the PTU like the_natrix did for Gen 1 or someone from the Ford fold can enlighten us on the metallurgy/composition of these latest units. Here's Scotty's take on the AWD:

Dismount the TB, clean it, air dry it, then mount it back. This allows you to do a thorough job. Use MAF sensor cleaner because nowadays the TBs/plates have coatings on them that would be removed by brake cleaner/carb cleaner etc.

Might want to change the caption to 2007-2014, don't have data yet on the 2015-16?