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sounds like the coil driver for cylinder 6, located in the PCM, is at fault. Sometimes the injector is at fault, of course. Highly recommend you do all coils and have the PCM repaired by the good folks at https://circuitboardmedics.com. the random misfires can put enough stress on the coils and PCM to warrant a proactive resolution. TSB for this issue https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZT29kax4hFpDVTwOAvMi5AHon9PV714X/view?usp=sharing and the kit you can get from Ford (coils, plugs, gaskets) https://parts.levittownfordparts.com/oem-parts/ford-kit-ba5z12259a

for ecoboosts, 93 is highly recommended for those looking for power or those who mash the wawa pedal on a frequent basis. more octane = more available timing advance. the real gains come after you put on an aftermarket tune. mostly because the factory tune runs pig rich to protect the engine, so the tuners can lean it out without detriment. but also because transmission shifting behavior is improved, faster and crisper.

this was published on YT, based on a Fiesta ST owner in the UK, IIRC.

if oem HID, the ballast should be mounted to the bottom (?) of the assembly.

yeah those are halogen fittings. HID was optional tho on the Sport, as part of the Equipment Group 401A – Technology Package https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_3Rmp0PrPfGFN898FZZuGBiob8UuZvOr/view?usp=sharing This is a typical D3S connection https://www.hidconcept.com/products/mitsubishi-d3s-d3r-connector-pack-of-2

savings AND performance. can't beat that!

might check around with one of the lawyers that have filed suit. if they have access to mediation with Ford, you may get recompensed.

So, you are going the plugin hybrid route then.

TSB now posted here https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_tV0p90M85nN1S99BRujXA620dqIfQ6l/view?usp=sharing

the aux tube would be useful at the track for sure if someone wanted to go that route. route it down to the DRL/fog lamp area. keep it closed for the street to prevent dirt/water intrusion from there. true CF is expensive, most would likely be happy with hydrodipped parts. true CF would be a showpiece, a Concours item.

and ... back to the fun stuff lol.

for reference, this is the 2019+ Sight Shield https://parts.levittownfordparts.com/oem-parts/ford-sight-shield-kt4z16a238a 2015-2018 Sight Shield https://parts.levittownfordparts.com/oem-parts/ford-sight-shield-ft4z16a238a

actually several have lost their ecoboost motors to LMS tunes, dyno tuned or not. but all were in the pursuit of power levels well above the "max" most tend to run, with methanol and ethanol and whatnot. just goes to show you take your chances, no matter who you go with. and in tuning, always expect non-fatal hiccups along the way. we like to believe that every powertrain that comes out of the factory is an identical clone, but such is often not the case. ford makes many unadvertised changes during production runs, some of which can catch you unawares. MACT has pointed out many along the way in his journey with the 2011s ? so be patient, and you will get the results you want.

@Xtra, probably setting myself up for failure, but any idea if this would fit the 2.0 engine bay? you would think the basic structure/underpinnings would allow it, but may need additional support the Sport/ST already comes with. TIA!

Maybe if you were bracket racing and got Bilstein to sponsor you, @Xtra! ?

glad to know things are going smoothly with your setup.

unless you have a high amp stereo system or similarly power hungry equipment, most of the electrical needs are at startup. once the vehicle has started and electronics have stabilized, headlamps and engine fans are usually the most power hungry appliances. on a highway drive, it is unlikely engine fans were needed. and unless you were driving in darkish conditions, or have DRLs on, the headlamps would not come into play. that is my best guess.

Should be. Just have to update the ATC strategy code (from label on the unit) so the RDU can be controlled properly by the PCM. There are officially 3 revisions used in gen 1.5: Production Date: 06/2009-08/2010 08/2010-07/2012 07/2012-04/2014 I have not seen any mention of specific changes in the factory manuals, but there may be slight differences in mounting. Sometimes they like to eliminate fixtures they deem unnecessary.

you will want to do them ALL, AND check the coils for integrity. rotate the front to back and back to front at the very least. these MYs have an issue with the worn plugs burning out coils burning out coil drivers in the PCM. can get expensive very fast.

only the idler gear is sold separately. otherwise, complete ptu.

make sure the manual selector valve / range sensor PIN are correctly aligned. that should do it.

https://www.youtube.com/c/MACTFordEdge/search?query=alternator all signs point to alternator failure. if it were charging the battery in your 2010, voltage should get up as high as 14.5-14.6 with the engine running, at least in the first few minutes from a cold start. use a device like a solar ba9 to check alternator function (the MACT effort gets a kickback from this link) https://amzn.to/2RPEGfY and/or use an amp meter to see how much current is actually flowing from the alternator to the battery. it has hardly ever been wiring related, but if there are pest issues in your area, it is a possibility. if terminals are not tightly attached, that is another possible scenario. buy a motorcraftalternator whenever possible, especially if you dont want a redo of the install.

can't see pics. OEM or aftermarket camera?

https://lombardfordwarrantys.com would be my goto. you can get lower quotes from Flood, Ziegler, Anderson Koch, etc. i have heard Lombards will match.