WWWPerfA_ZN0W

Welcome 420benz. If you know generally where the question fits best (electronics, engine, transmission, etc.) by symptom, post your questions there. The moderators can move it for you if they feel is appropriate.

At least dealer awareness of the issue does not seem to be a problem, unlike with the 2011-14s.

Yeah, we will have to wait a bit for the valve covers to prove out. Metal has a long history and so we take it for granted, plastic not so much. I don't see any reason why they should be an issue though.

Who's your dealer and are there any other Ford/Lincoln dealers nearby?

Interesting, that shows up as a Mustang throttle body in the limited hits on the web, but with an EC ending instead of EK. So probably off a 3.7 engine. Don't know if it is OEM to the vehicle though. http://www.autogator.com/details.php?vstockno=R11855&template=partscar

I think they switched over to plastic covers starting in 2011. Not a weight savings measure apparently. On other cars where they have done this, the plastic stuff weighs MORE than the aluminum ones. 2011 2010

Wonder if it's the same issue on the 2015+? Very annoying! Would be nice for it to be just a piece of trim slightly out of place.

Did wrapping them in cloth stop the squeaking/screeching?

I had this happen before finally the fan motor gave out. Not to say this still couldn't be the resistor, though, that's the difficult part. The TYC fan motor from Amazon or RockAuto is a fairly low-priced DIY-install part. A bit noisier than Motorcraft, but apparently blows more air as well. I remember at least one person having the resistor being the issue, seach the forum for "blower resistor", should get a hit.

Great list I WOULD have added a Step 10.5 to first add Motorcraft or cheapo 75W140 to carry away any remnants of brake cleaner/minerals spirits, driven around 50 miles, then final change to Step 11. BUT, interested in your findings, and good luck!

akirby merely stated his opinion, you don't have to accept it. By no means was it "trolling".

Good to know, thanks for the update!

The TB listed for the 16 Edge 3.5L on the Levittown site is AT4Z-9E926-B.

Well, I think you have to replace the tire(s) if you want to correct that situation (unless they are non-directional and can be flipped), get an alignment done to correct the camber/toe, and replace the shocks to correct the SAS issue.

Shocks & struts don't directly impact camber & toe. But they do contribute to suspension geometry, which changes as you drive (more so on turns, bumpy roads, etc). Having properly functioning shocks & struts at that time will help the suspension geometry to work as designed. People lower their vehicles all the time, using the same shocks/struts they had before the change. But this changes suspension geometry, and also the resultant stresses on the shock/strut. This additional stress can decrease the life of the shock/strut, if the alignment does not adjust for the change in suspension geometry. Hence the need for an alignment in this case. If the geometry changes are extreme enough, you can add additional suspension geometry capabilities by using camber/caster plates, adjustable lower control arms, camber adjustment bolts, etc. Are you eyeballing the camber/toe on the rear wheels, or do you have an alignment sheet to work with? http://www.santafegarage.com/precision-alignments/camber-explained/ http://www.superstreetonline.com/how-to/chassis-suspension/htup-0712-camber-101-honda-camber-guide/

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That would tick me off! Are the rotors the same thickness all the way round? I have heard occasional complaints they are not.

If this is the line you need, here is how to replace it 2010 Edge Power Steering Pump to Steering Gear Pressure Line.pdf

This kit might be what you need: 8T4Z-3A719-A I believe the Gates equivalent is this part: available from RockAuto, not sure on whether the banjo bolts are included in this price or not.

From our very own macbwt

Need a clear window into the evaporator's operation, so we can watch it freeze up

You can plumb the lines to add gauge pods, or you can load up Torque Pro or ForScan on a smartphone (ForScan also on iOS), connect to the OBD II via an adapter, and get whatever data you want. The Torque/ForScan route is more appealing to most people. If you proceed with an actual gauge install, you will need to find the reference line for boost, as well as a place for the gauge to reside.

Probably involves pulling the dash to get to the thermistor? Then yeah, set aside a good 8 hrs for the first time you do it ...

Hmmm. Possible that this is an "extreme" situation/scenario. Maybe it is by design, kinda like paper shredders that have thermal overload protection. They will time out for a while, maybe 15 minutes, before they can be used gain. The A/C can cut out by design during WOT acceleration, to give full power for acceleration. Ok, the FSM states (note the statement in bold): So possibly 1 or more conditions creating the scenario you have described.