WWWPerfA_ZN0W

I like that the site sends you owner, repair, AND parts manuals for the price, pretty sweet!!! I wonder if they have an arrangement with Ford to do this. Kind of like wholesaling.

Does your Edge have a 3.5L engine? A new throttle body should take care of the problem.

This problem has been showing up on (at least for Ford) vehicles built over the last 10 years, so it's not just a PFI vs DI argument. Seems like a design/materials issue to me, if all the parts are connected & sealed properly.

Did you mean this? Parking Brake Cable Adjustment NOTE: Cable tension is adjusted in 2 locations, the first location is at the parking brake control, the second location is at the parking brake cable equalizer. The tension must be adjusted equally at both locations. With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02 . NOTE: The dimension will vary depending on the amount of cable stretch. New cables require cycling the parking brake control 5-10 times to remove the cable slack. Adjust the parking brake control adjustment nut as shown. Adjust the parking brake cable equalizer adjustment nut as shown. Fully apply the parking brake pedal 3 times to verify correct operation of the parking brake system. With the parking brake cable in the fully released position, brake drag should not be present.

Spongy brakes usually means air in the system, so IDK if a brake booster issue fits. When you bled the brakes did you completely change out the old fluid? That might be all that's needed. The brake hoses and brake lines look intact?

Good luck!

I don't know if there is a common place to look in these cases, but I'd suspect moisture got into the wiring/connectors somewhere.

First thing you need to do is have codes pulled from the PCM (computer). That will point you in the direction of what might have gone wrong. It could be a problem with the throttle body, a faulty instrument cluster, faulty wired connection(s), it could be something else entirely. Was the car in a highpressure car wash or heavy rains recently? Did the brakes work fine all the way till you came to a stop in the parking lot? The brakes are power assisted as well. Were all the lights on and everything? The ONLY anomaly was the gauges dropping to zero? Advance Auto, Pep Boys, AutoZone, or any major auto parts store should be able to read the codes for free, perhaps even point towards a known solution.

Is the steering electric or hydraulic, Elmo? If it's hydraulic (non Ecoboost engines), you should do a drain & fill on the reservoir and see if that helps. I like to take out as much fluid out of the reservoir as possible, fill it back up, turn the steering wheel lock to lock a few times (never holding at lock) to get the air out. Drive around for a few miles. Then repeat the process twice more. That should get the fluid looking nice & new. Use Mercon LV. Also check underneath for any signs of leakage from the power steering lines. If you have the Ecoboost engine, I believe you will have electric steering, in which case the EPAS module or the steering angle sensor may be bad.

Post pics of the unit when you receive it

Marketing trumps engineering, every time.

No experience with Seafoam, but if the internet is to be believed, it is a popular fuel and engine oil treatment. I am sure if you follow the directions (and read on how people have done it), it will work fine.

Well, hard way to learn, but I hope the transmission will now be troublefree for another 100,000 KMs (or more)! No idea why they go bad except to note that don't believe the "lifetime transmission fluid" marketing ploy. Definitely change it out every 60,000 miles (or less if "severe service" qualifies). Varnish does build up in the transmission over time as the fluid gets old and the additives break down. Electronic components are VERY sensitive to this gunk and the easiest way to keep them clean is to change the fluid periodically.

All good questions. From what I have heard, Ford uses richer fuel mixtures at WOT than the tuner (in this case LME) does. Probably why you can gain mpg even when tuned. Even so, the mystery remains. Could be something to do with having a bellypan & that trapping heat/odors. Don't know if the bellypans are made of "eco friendly" materials, like soy-based plastics.

That sucks! You should at the very least get a professional detailing done and charge it back to them.

Got blown away by the Civic in Round 1 LOL. Impressive!

Levittown lists the D part as still available art # Description List Price Price AT4Z-7251-D TRANSFER CASE EDGE, MKX; TO 8/8/08 $822.06 $614.49 When in doubt, talk to Benny at Levittown. They sponsor this forum.

Any updates on the wipers, Brucifer? On a side note: I have been using about 4.5 oz/tank of SuperTech TC-W3 for a few months now, starting prior to the switch to "summer" gas. In between I took a break to see if the summer gas made any difference to the mpg and responsiveness all by itself, and for about 4 tanks, it did. Then it started to fall flat again, tho not as bad as "bare" winter gas. So, with experimentation, I found I need 3.5-4 oz/tank now, varies a bit by gas station. All top tier gas. Very smooth & quiet. More recently: after feeling left out by the Gen 1.5 (and Gen 2) having throttle body replacements done (though not missing the emergency experience), I said what the hey. The Throttle Position Sensor/potentiometer is available for Gen 1, so I ordered it from RockAuto. Put it on the throttle body yesterday (without cleaning up the TB or anything), took the Edge for a drive to gauge performance. Immediately felt better. Same impression on today's driving. All mixed city/hwy.