WWWPerfA_ZN0W

I hear ya. What we have been lacking is aftermarket downpipes for the Edge, regardless of MY. Those can be easily good for 2/10 at the track esp if the OEM part has restrictions. A meth kit would probably require adaptation, but should be doable. May even mount a tank in the trunk if serious about it for possibly another 1/2 second off the quarter mile. Plus you get to keep the intake valves clean! EDIT: if you are into E at all, mixing in some E85 to get to E20ish (with a tune) will yield nice results, even without methanol in the mix.

Junkyard diving (aka EBay) here we come!

I am still here, and I am still interested The observed "lack of interest" may be because Ford does not want to undercut the Mustang's popular base LOL. But it is disheartening to an extent nonetheless. Makes it all the more important you keep blazing the trail!

Spectra has a nice warranty on the fan, but I would still go Motorcraft ultimately if I could: http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2007,edge,3.5l+v6,1434490,cooling+system,radiator+fan+assembly,2181

Yeah, Mercon LV based transmissions ...

The Ford Parts site should be definitive, so I would go with what they spec. Ford specs AWD front rotors at 13", but actual OD is 12.6". FWD front rotors are spec'd at 11.89", but are actually 11.65". This, based on the FordPartsGiant.com site: http://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts-list/2008-ford-edge/front-brake-discs-and-calipers.html 7T4Z-1125-A Rotor Assy Actual O.D. Is 12.60”, Warranty Eligible Fit Note: Brake Discs 17" Callout Name: 1125 2 $108.30 $73.43 7T4Z-1125-B Rotor Assy Actual O.D. Is 11.65”, Warranty Eligible Fit Note: Brake Discs 16" Callout Name: 1125 Replaced by: 7U2Z-1V125-DC 2 $74.97 $50.83 7U2Z-1V125-DC Rotor Assy Ford Retail Spec, Actual O.D. Is 11.65” Fit Note: Brake Discs 16" Callout Name: 1125 2 $74.97 $50.83 7U2Z-1V125-ED Rotor Assy Ford Retail Spec, Actual O.D. Is 12.60” Fit Note: Brake Discs 17" Callout Name: 1125 2 $83.30 $56.48

What is the part number? Dorman brand is 621-392 and TYC brand is 622040 (non-towing)

what brand did you buy, Katie? Did you have to unbolt the assembly at the bottom? Make sure the bolts are torqued down. Could always be a defective assembly of course.

Both are front rotors, same diameter (12.6"), but the BRRF seems to be an "OEM" design and has a grayish coating on it. The other is "retail". Not sure there's any perceptible difference otherwise. The BRRF might resist rust better on the non-braking surfaces?

I don't think a MY 2008 will get coverage under the 13N02 warranty extension for the brake booster. But no harm in trying! Contact the reps on Twitter @FordService or call them at the tollfree number.

The valve body fix I have seen has been on the 6F55 trans, not the 6F50. Might still apply though. http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/TSb/DownloadPdf?id=176597

Yeah, get that recall out of the way!!!

Are the terminals tightened down properly? Did you allow for the Battery Management System to learn the characteristics of the new battery? (You can do it on your own, it's just more expedient at a dealership.) If so, you can get a Solar unit as suggested above to load test the battery and alternator condition.

Would be nice to know if the miles were all city, all highway, or what mix ... Can't get that from a dealer, but buying direct from the owner, definitely. Certainly hope you can keep the Edge!

Seems the best contact for the Ford reps is now on Twitter @FordService. The IVT reps do still visit the forum, but anything else, no go.

Yup, the caliper piston dust boots. Mind you, I have never heard it causing issues on any of my vehicles, so no personal experience, but I have read about it a couple times while surfing the net.

Welcome, 234chief, and congrats to da wife (& you LOL)! If she loves spirited driving, she will love having a tune on the Edge even more Please do post some pics of the Edge.

Nice ride, GLWS!

Most likely culprits are strut mount, control arm bushing, and swaybar link. All bushings should be checked thoroughly first. If you find faulty components on one side, do both sides, because the other side won't be far behind. A caliper dust boot is an unusual suspect, but worth checking, if the creak is very "small".

First link doesn't seem to work, enigma mac recently made a video on this issue for his 2011, may still be useful for the 2015:

Well done! Hopefully we have the DIY ball rolling on this one

As long as there's passion in this "relationship" LOL! Thanks for the followup, good luck with the fix!

Sorry to hear you are facing this situation, but who can argue with fiscal responsibility? Have you made a list of NEEDS vs WANTS for your next vehicle? Do you want/need a CUV? Do you want/need good mpg? How long do you anticipate having to own this vehicle (always plan for longer, be pleasantly surprised if not)? Is your drive easy enough that a stick instead of an auto will do (though traffic/job changes may negate this point)? I'd definitely look to see if there is an existing warranty for the vehicle you intend to buy. Good maintenance records/Carfax/Autocheck, low maintenance costs would also be a priority, along with reliability. You are a teacher, right? Can you get discounted loans from a credit union or do your benefits include assistance with car buying? But don't sacrifice so much that you hate the drive every day.

Stuck thermostat? If the coolant looks good, that would be my goto. There have been TSBs out for problems with the heater core contaminating/clogging the coolant system. In which case a flush + new heater core would be the solution. While it is normal for the coolant level to go down a bit over time, a steady drop over a short period of time is more indicative of a water pump and/or a head gasket leak. Any white smoke out the exhaust?

Factory mufflers on the SHO make it dead quiet, even under acceleration. If you can snag some Cobra or even GT mufflers, that may work also, they worked with the Yamaha-centric SHOs.