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Did you make sure to follow instructions for the brake light switch (below brake pedal)? NOTICE: Do not service the brake pedal or brake booster without first removing the stoplamp switch. This switch must be removed with the brake pedal in the at-rest position. The switch plunger must be compressed for the switch to rotate in the bracket. Attempting to remove the switch when the plunger is extended (during pedal apply) will result in damage to the switch. Remove the stoplamp switch. For additional information, refer to Section 417-01 NOTICE: Do not press, pull or otherwise move the brake pedal while installing the stoplamp switch. The switch must be installed with the booster push rod attached to the brake pedal and with the brake pedal in the at-rest position. Installing this switch with the brake pedal in any other position will result in incorrect adjustment and may damage the switch.

"Lifetime" means lifetime of the warranty LOL!

That definitely merits a dealer visit, like Beezz pointed out.

There's a TSB out on hub/bearing: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/6823-can-someone-post-tsb-10-2-9/?do=findComment&comment=55149 Latest is 14-0098, no PDF, but here is the text: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/18331-howl-or-growl-type-noise-from-rear-wheel-area/?do=findComment&comment=133766

Forscan Lite and Torque Pro. Used to use OBDLink's software, stopped a year or so back.

(PTU related) Intermediate Shaft Seal and Deflector NOTE: For High Resolution: Click here to view a video version of this procedure. NOTE: For Low Resolution: Click here to view a video version of this procedure.

Usually it's some kind of emissions monitor that is setting the P1000 code. I would use Torque Pro to check the status, as they have a display just for that (very easy to check). Here is what the owner's manual says about the drive cycle: Readiness for Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) testing Some state/provincial and local governments may have Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) programs to inspect the emission control equipment on your vehicle. Failure to pass this inspection could prevent you from getting a vehicle registration. Your vehicle may not pass the I/M test if the Service engine soon indicator is on or not working properly (bulb is burned out), or if the OBD-II system has determined that some of the emission control systems have not been properly checked. In this case, the vehicle is considered not ready for I/M testing. If the Service engine soon indicator is on or the bulb does not work, the vehicle may need to be serviced. Refer to the On board diagnostics (OBD-II) description in this chapter. If the vehicle’s engine or transmission has just been serviced, or the battery has recently run down or been replaced, the OBD-II system may indicate that the vehicle is not ready for I/M testing. To determine if the vehicle is ready for I/M testing, turn the ignition key to the ON position for 15 seconds without cranking the engine. If the Service engine soon indicator blinks eight times, it means that the vehicle is not ready for I/M testing; if the Service engine soon indicator stays on solid, it means that the vehicle is ready for I/M testing. The OBD-II system is designed to check the emission control system during normal driving. A complete check may take several days. If the vehicle is not ready for I/M testing, the following driving cycle consisting of mixed city and highway driving may be performed: 15 minutes of steady driving on an expressway/highway followed by 20 minutes of stop-and-go driving with at least four 30-second idle periods. Allow the vehicle to sit for at least eight hours without starting the engine. Then, start the engine and complete the above driving cycle. The engine must warm up to its normal operating temperature. Once started, do not turn off the engine until the above driving cycle is complete. If the vehicle is still not ready for I/M testing, the above driving cycle will have to be repeated. 2010 Edge Description of On Board Diagnostic Drive cycle.pdf

Oft neglected maintenance item.

Pretty normal for an Ecoboost engine as oil pressure builds. There is speculation that it is due to the timing chain, and that will in due time turn to timing chain slap and constant rattling. More true on the F150 than in the transverse engined crowd. One solution is to always use the Motorcraft oil filter, it really does allow oil pressure to build quickly. Another is to use a quality full synthetic oil, instead of the minimum spec in the owner's manual. EDIT: I have not heard of an HPFP (high pressure fuel pump, sits atop the engine) failing this early, but it's worth checking that a) the sound is not coming from there, and B] the insulating cover is present. Check the oil level while you are at it. BTW, it's normal for these engines to sound like diesels, as much of the technology is the same.

Ford needs to pay more attention to the most important noise in the car ... the driver grumbling!

That observation would lead me to believe the smell is caused by the engine running lean in D, heating up the catalytic converter more than in S, and thus the smell. We need a chassis sniffer equivalent of chassisears ...

I take it you tried new O2 sensors, let the drive cycle complete, and nothing changed? This is the basic procedure; Catalytic Converter — LHRemoval and Installation NOTE: Always install new fasteners and gaskets. Clean flange faces prior to new gasket installation to make sure of correct sealing. With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02 .Disconnect the Catalyst Monitor Sensor (CMS) electrical connector.Remove the exhaust Y-pipe. For additional information, refer to Exhaust Y-Pipe in this section.Remove the 2 catalytic converter support bracket-to-transmission bolts. To install, tighten to 48 Nm (35 lb-ft). Remove the 4 nuts and the LH catalytic converter. Discard the nuts and gasket. To install, tighten to 40 Nm (30 lb-ft). Inspect the exhaust manifold studs for damage. If damaged, replace stud(s), or if stud comes out when removing nut(s), replace the stud(s). To install, tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft). To install, reverse the removal procedure. Install a new gasket and nuts.

You have to give the PCM time to relearn. Depending on whether you can complete the drive cycle or not, the time it takes may be a bit more or less. I am not 100% sure, but you might see a P1000 code set while it relearns. That should clear after relearn is complete. Then is the time to get new data.

These are the parts you need, I think: https://secure.revolutionparts.com/levittown-ford/auto-parts/2007/ford/edge/sel-trim/3-5l-v6-gas-engine/body-cat/tracks-and-components-scat 6 7T4Z-7866410-HA COVER, RIGHT MANUAL SEAT, PASSENGER SIDE, OUTBOARD, STONE $47.53 $32.80 6 7T4Z-7866410-DA COVER, RIGHT MANUAL SEAT, PASSENGER SIDE, INBOARD, STONE $46.00 $31.74 6 7T4Z-7866410-DC COVER, RIGHT MANUAL SEAT, PASSENGER SIDE, INBOARD, BLACK $46.73 $32.25 6 7T4Z-7866410-HC COVER, RIGHT MANUAL SEAT, PASSENGER SIDE, OUTBOARD, BLACK $40.25 $27.77 6 7T4Z-7866410-DB COVER, RIGHT MANUAL SEAT, PASSENGER SIDE, INBOARD, CAMEL Sorry no part number listed for #4 5 7T4Z-7866410-AB COVER, LEFT MANUAL SEAT, DRIVER SIDE, INBOARD, STONE $46.73 $32.25 5 7T4Z-7866410-GA COVER, LEFT MANUAL SEAT, DRIVER SIDE, OUTBOARD, STONE $47.53 $32.80 5 8T4Z-7866410-GA COVER, LEFT MANUAL SEAT, DRIVER SIDE, OUTBOARD, BLACK $43.62 $30.10 5 7T4Z-7866410-AC COVER, LEFT MANUAL SEAT, DRIVER SIDE, INBOARD, CAMEL $47.15 $32.53 5 8T4Z-7866410-A COVER, LEFT MANUAL SEAT, DRIVER SIDE, INBOARD, BLACK $39.12 $26.99 5 7T4Z-7866410-GB COVER, LEFT MANUAL SEAT, DRIVER SIDE, OUTBOARD, CAMEL $40.25 $27.77

I would search on EBay and see if the seller will ship to you. Otherwise I know Levittown Ford will do it, they ship worldwide.

Ok. If you decide to clean the TPS, take before and after pics of the TPS and the mating throttle body gears. Cleaning the MAF sensor never hurts, but let's just do the battery thing for now. One thing at a time

There might be a very small possibility of an issue with a gradual input with the gas pedal. Snapping the gas pedal seems to have the expected response from the throttle. You could try taking the TPS off the throttle body, take a good look at the sensor AND the gears on the throttle body to see if there is any dirt/corrosion. Clean the sensor with electronic parts/MAF cleaner only. Let it dry out, reassemble and see if that makes a difference. Did you have the hangup at 3000 rpm happen when the Edge was running well, before the issues with the TSS/OSS started? Did you disconnect the battery while you were working on the sensors? The engine was off when you cleaned the throttle body? Might just need to pull the negative battery cable for 30 minutes or more and let the PCM reset/relearn. There is a YT video on this, if you can access it: If you DID disconnect the battery, and for long enough, how many KMs have you put on since then? The PCM relearn can take some time if you don't follow the drive cycle.

Congrats, Devon, did you get the 3.5 or the 2.0? Will take some time to break in, so patience is needed. Also fill up at top tier stations whenever you can. BTW, dealers are not famous for putting the best fuel in the tank.

Possible they replaced the fuel pump in yours? Didn't in mine.

How many miles on your Edge? Which brand of fan assembly did you have installed? Sometimes you have to use the new fans with the OEM controller to make them work happily together. If the Edge does not have a tow package, the controller could have been installed in reverse. The tow controller has 1 connector on 1 side and 2 on the other side, whereas the nontow has 1 on each side. Sometimes the controller connection is loose and has to be secured with duct tape (!). Did the shop check the coolant for oil/combustion gases? They should have been able to pull codes from the PCM, even if no check engine light was set.

I have not used them, no, but know a few people on the forums who have, and had a great experience. They are very helpful with any questions you may have as well.

I don't think the AWD will get damaged, but will it be at its' best? That's a different story. As long as you are not in a critical situation (very rare), I'd say not to worry too much about it, if it is driving well now. Just remember the Edge is FWD most of the time, and don't press your luck, and you will be fine. Definitely measure/have the depth measured though. Not sure how you would know how different they are for sure otherwise.

You mean Detroit Wheel & Tire?

PINPOINT TEST Q: THE BLOWER MOTOR IS INOPERATIVE 2011 Edge Pinpoint Tests for Inoperative Blower.pdf