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WWWPerfA_ZN0W

Edge Platinum Member
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Everything posted by WWWPerfA_ZN0W

  1. I dont think you have to worry about it. Just turn the key to on but dont start the engine. You should hear the pump prime. Make sure fuel level is at least 1/8 to play it safe.
  2. Do you have AWD? Then this pump should fit. Will not fit FWD. Might be the difference right there.
  3. Sounds like the PCM may be on the fritz. Unkess you can find a short in the wiring, I would get the PCM repaired by circuitboardmedics.com before attempting anything else.
  4. The assumption here is that Top Tier fuel is being used when pumping 87 octane. The engine may not spontaneously combust, but it can be an unsettling experience when it decides to shut down for self preservation.
  5. Yeah those videos have never shown the 2007 Edge setup, unfortunately.
  6. Another member just had a great service experience with them after a TB failure on a 2015 3.5L occurred. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/20948-second-gen-2015-16-35-throttle-body-failure-report-thread/?do=findComment&comment=157674
  7. Sounds like Ford has decided to be on the ball with this issue, at least post-occurrence. Good luck!
  8. Jeez! Sorry about the Edge, but on it doing its' job! Hope no longterm ill-effects for the wife, and wish for a speedy insurance discovery/settlement.
  9. No, it does take out the fluid in the converter. The engine is running at the time the fluid replacement procedure is done.
  10. The one by one simply refers to pulling one fuse at a time to check if the current draw at the battery drops when everything is off.
  11. Make sure maintenance is uptodate on the potential purchase. A lot of people seem to sell their vehicles right around when a major service might be coming up, and you don't want to be out of pocket right away. Not a "fault" in the vehicle, but just routine stuff. Also, try and get a CPO (certified pre-owned) Edge, if the Edge is not under the 3/36 bumper to bumper warranty. It drives up the price some, but gives great peace of mind. Then buy an extended warranty from Ford (aftermarket warranties are a crapshoot), Premiumcare being the highest level. You can compare the various levels of coverage here: http://www.factoryplans.com/assets/cms/files/brochure_FordESPPlanOptions.pdf If you decide to purchase said warranty, look up online pricing from lombardfordwarrantys.com (they are an authorized Ford dealer) to get an idea of how much the warranty costs. Try to have the selling dealership (if Ford) build it into the vehicle's financing at that price, or just buy it separately yourself.
  12. Good luck, I am sure they will figure it out ASAP!
  13. That's the PCV hose. You pull it off the PCV valve directly, from the other other end with no clamp on it. Maybe a little twisting is needed depending on how stuck it will be to the valve. Did you disconnect the 2-pin electrical connector in that area from the intake manifold (underneath the manifold)? You will need to feel for that connector; it has a snap fit just like the spark plug wires, just without the orange lock. In addition, you will need to disconnect the electrical connector from the PCV valve once you get the intake off. These valves are heated, a 2007-only feature. I could not turn the valves by hand, so a pliers/wrench was used, which of course ruined the old PCV valve This entire thread is useful, but here are some pics from my post that may help: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/8724-sparkplug-replacement-job-info-with-photos/page-3?do=findComment&comment=130235
  14. There could very well be an amp draw from somewhere draining the battery. And AC is a very heavy draw. Could be any number of modules not turning off like they are supposed to, including the Body Control Module, Climate Control Module, etc. Aftermarket components (especially audio systems) are notorious for causing battery drains. Could be a short in the system, and usually that involves methodically pulling fuses one by one to figure out where the amp draw is coming from. I wouldn't necessarily trust what the store had to say. I would want to verify for myself. A basic digital voltmeter should be in your toolkit at minimum. I suggest the load tester because it is not tied to any one vehicle make/model in any way (well maybe not for hybrids ...), so it will pay off in time.
  15. Possible they use different brake pads? MKX shows 14 F2GZ-2001-A FRONT PADS MKX $94.37 $65.11 Edge options show: 14 F2GZ-2001-C BRAKE PADS W/18 ROTOR $94.37 $65.11 14 F2GZ-2001-A BRAKE PADS W/17 ROTOR $94.37 $65.11 14 F2GZ-2001-C FRONT PADS EDGE; 18 FRONT BRAKES $94.37 $65.11 14 F2GZ-2001-A FRONT PADS EDGE; 17 FRONT BRAKES $94.37 $65.11
  16. Mathematically it comes out to more like 87% with 3 drain & fills since about 50% of the fluid is drained each time. Probably more to do with the non-serviceable filter in the 6F50 transmission, rather than smaller/bigger. It's possible transmissions built for bigger vehicles are sturdier, but I am also sure they have serviceable filter and regular fluid change intervals.
  17. How many miles on your Edge? Any devices plugged into the power outlets and always on? Can you get access to a digital load tester like the Solar BA5 or BA7? That would check the alternator and battery for you. Could be wiring in between the alternator and the battery as well. The battery should show 12.6V across the terminals with all devices & engine turned off. Check 1/2 hr after engine is turned off, to allow modules to go to sleep. There is a video that macbwt made re Alternator replacement, should you need to do so.
  18. Another option might be to pull Fuses 37 & 46 in the passenger compartment fuse panel (under driverside dash). They are 10A fuses, probably RED in color.
  19. If the brakes are making noise especially when the Edge is driven first thing in the morning, it actually IS a common condition. Much more so if parked overnight and in humid conditions. I have made it a habit to back into my parking spots, but I will still hear a bit of grinding the first time I apply the brakes (surface rust, which is ok). Aftermarket brakes (rotors and pads) may help reduce/cure excessive grinding/hooting noise IMHO.
  20. So its possible you did not complete the drive cycle (Readiness for Inspection - specified in the owner's manual) after the PCM is flashed before emissions testing, right? Probably all you needed/need to do to pass the test ... That would be a nice bonus As far as the engine not running so well, possibly a PCM relearn in process?
  21. The XSport has an Ecoboost engine, so the tune update would be anything but minor: more power and better trans shift management, and very likely better fuel economy without losing reliability. But yeah, everyone has their own theshhold of "pain" LOL, and quite understably so. And the maintenance cycles do shorten in order to keep the finely tuned machine running like one.
  22. Did you get an alignment done after installing the springs?
  23. Please post some pics for all to see May jog a couple of memories/ideas ...
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