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Welcome & congrats, keysersoze! I trust you are not manipulating us LOL. You might be able to get GAP insurance through your financing co and/or insurance co fairly cheaply, esp if you have a safe driving record. Check with them first.

Welcome and congrats, t164! How about a few pics to show off the new Pride & Joy???

So the tire suddenly went flat, but it is holding pressure when not mounted to the vehicle? If it's been slowly losing pressure for a while, I'd might have suggested checking the wheel for signs of rust, as that that will create slow leaks. The AWD system takes about 3% variability max (though I have read reports that it doesn't matter at all) between tires. This is tire height, not tread depth we are talking about. If you go to Ford, though, the answer will likely be replace all 4, because that is their standard recommendation; I don't blame them for that. Definitely do not mix tire heights/tread depths on an axle. I think you'd be ok with just 2 new tires, but you probably want to leave them on front so they wear down faster than the old tires in the rear. Lets take the example of Sport tires: 265/40R22 tires are about 30.5" tall. So 3% of 30.5 = 0.915", or almost an inch of height. I dont think the AWD will have an issue handling the difference. Now if you have Ford warranty, if something goes wrong with the PTU, they could likely blame the tires. So in order to close that loophole, either fix the "bad" tire, or replace all 4. If you do not have warranty remaining, then it is your call: fix, replace 2, or replace all 4. Since I am OCD, you know what my answer will be There are tire deals that abound (even thru Ford) so I would shop online and ask them to match or do 1 better.

Nice! Glad you are back in business.

GTK

Probsbly need to replace the stoplamp switch. Need to do that to make sure others know when you are IN FACT braking.

No experience with the iTSX or the TS. I have an XCal3 (X3), which would be used only to log for the tuning co I would use. The rest of the time I use an OBDLink MX BT and a smartphone/tablet.

A digital load tester will be your friend. Those analog testers are not much use for modern vehicle setups.

There's one person I know of that has a pipe running down to the fog light for colder air. A screen is of course mandatory because of the far greater potential for debris interested in trashing your engine. Nobody's had hiflow downpipes made yet, that would release some power also. Then you could create a true dual catback (like the 2011+ sport?) to complete the intake/exhaust upgrade. AWD probably would make that more difficult tho. A tuner will get get you some more power/torque, but the main advantage I think will be in the change in availability, and in transmission shifting logic.

You can look up your vehicle's production date here: https://www.etis.ford.com As far as date range I am sure it is a combination of the vehicles that have been complained about and the batches of related parts involved.

The fuse panel is under the steering column/above the deadpedal area. EDIT: The battery is looking more & more likely. How old is it, do you know? Have any electrical issues popped up recently prior to these? The alternator & wiring in between can't be ruled out without a test either.

Possibly a ground related issue. High pressure washes can cause moisture related issues. Roll back the carpet to see if there's any wetness. Could have hit the passenger compartment fuse panel.

The APIM and Brake Booster may have an extended warranty on them, so would be no cost to you should they need repair/replacement. The other items would likely be OOP.

Is the downshift at part throttle or full throttle or both? Engine problems can sometimes feel like transmission problems. Your Edge is nearing the point where spark plugs are endoflife, particularly if the Edge was driven mixed hwy/city. Another thing to check is the intercooler, which can accumulate a mix of fuel/water/oil, which can in turn be sucked into the engine when conditions are right. It should be able to be emptied without removing the intercooler. Also get fresh oil & filter onto the engine, and make sure to use Top Tier fuel, if you haven't filled it up yet. I'd consider a transmission fluid 3x drain/fill, particularly if the transmission fluid is in any way discolored (healthy is reddish pink) or smells burnt. But otherwise, I too think calibration might be what is needed, so ask the dealer if there are any updates. Do you still have factory warranty left, and if so for how long? I'd consider extending it with Ford PremiumCare ESP/Ford Protect before the warranty runs out. Online pricing from Ford dealers like LombardFordWarrantys.com and FloodFordESP.com are usually the best. Ziegler Ford may also have competitive pricing.

Is there any commonality among the events? Such as speed, cruise vs acceleration, roads, flat vs incline, etc? Any unusual sounds/smells? I believe it takes at least a minimum attempts at repair before the lemon law comes into effect. Check the laws in your state. Document everything. Most important though, look up dealer ratings online, find a good one to go to with your repair concerns. Let them have a go at earning your business.

Welcome to the forum, and congrats on the new Edge! New tire prices might be a bit of a shock for the 22s LOL. Slow leaks happened on some OEM setups. Aside from that, standard Gen 1.5 issues: APIM, brake booster, door ajar sensor, shifter.

Note that a bunch of lights light up routinely on the dash until the engine starts up, then go out. So is this the ONLY light showing? Post a pic if you can.

This is the TSB http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/TSb/DownloadPdf?id=176724

We are still in line for the airbag recall.

The 16 Fusion Sport, junehhan? OK I see there wasn't one. So you liked the Edge even more than the 2017 Fusion Sport?

Welcome Lena, sorry to hear of the problems you are having! Is it the 2.0 Ecoboost engine or the 3.5? Very possible it is due to poor fuel quality. Turbo engines are more sensitive to that. I assume they checked for any codes the PCM may have set? That is usually the first step in diagnosing modern engines.

Get the right pump for your FWD, not worth the risk.

No idea. But vibration in a fuel tank is never a good thing.

I think there was a TSB out on a false warning for this MY. IIRC a recalibration of the instrument panel cluster was the fix. Just to be sure, check the oil level. If oil level is ok, could be a faulty oil pressure switch.

There might be, but thats beyond my expertise. I do know that once a PCM is compromised, you cant really trust the codes it produces.