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ever changed plugs/pcv valve/coils? Those would be my first attempt to address the issue.

If you dont ever want it on, just pull the bulb?

You mean this one? http://www.carcomplaints.com/news/2016/ford-recalls-doors-closed-driving.shtml

SSMs (and TSBs) are subscriber-access items. People post them freely on the 'net, that's another matter That said, I'd appreciate seeing a copy of the SSM as well.

Welcome to the forum, Jaime, and thanks for these HOWTO videos!

IDK. Possibly inaccurate metering of fuel? Just to rule out the throttle body, you should take the air intake tube off and see if there's any crud buildup around the throttle plate. Give it a good cleaning with MAF cleaner and a rag/soft nylon bristle toothbrush. If the throttle plate is sticking, that should take care of it. How many KMs on your Edge, btw? Do you know if the spark plugs & PCV valve have ever been replaced? Air filter? If these all check out ok, then try running a quality fuel injector cleaner through the gas tank. I have found Techron and BG 44K to be the most effective so far.

Sounds more like an Overdrive/torque converter lockup issue. Have you tried turning O/D off when at 40 mph cruise? BTW, sometimes a "trans" problem is indeed plugs/coils/PCV valve. How many miles on your Edge? A DIY job, with patience.

Possibly a faulty sender and/or fuel filler neck. Both can get damaged during a fuel pump replacement. Do you have FWD/AWD? If you have AWD, the fuel tank is saddle type, which means a crossover tube is needed to pull fuel from the side the fuel pump is not located in. Maybe they left if off/disconnected.

Good luck with the new dealer. If the vehicle continues to have issues, maybe a lemon law return/xchange would be best.

Don't know if it is fixed, but haven't heard of any so far, so based on that, I'd say YES.

Welcome to the forum, GBW365! Yeah, hopefully that's the only fix needed for a long time!

Oh no, not you too!!! LOL. Just make sure it's someone who loves you that's driving you around

I would try lubing the swaybar bushings see if the noise goes away. It will probably return, since proper greasing of the bushings is usually done with them off the vehicle. I am not sure what the material is on these bushings. If rubber, they say not to grease at all. If polyurethane, there is a special grease for that. A synthetic grease like Super Lube might be best.

Do you think it could the same issue here, the receiver/dryer? I have seen it posted that the Shrader valves could be an issue on the high/low-side ports.

The Edge seems to be very picky about the correct amount of refrigerant in the system.

Unfortunately, you have to replace the axle to replace the tone ring, IIRC At least one member had posted about this, maybe within the last year EDIT: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/17212-loss-of-power-and-terrible-grinding-while-trying-to-accelerate/?do=findComment&comment=127271 http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/17208-trac-ctrl-kicked-in-then-abstracwrench-light/

Maybe it was just the connections. But I'd be prepared to find a replacement fan assembly anyway, just in case.

Could simply need a recalibration of the PCM and or the instrument cluster. But the fact that there are issues on startup/idle says you should look deeper. Do you change your own oil/filter or do you have it done? Has this been going on over multiple oil changes? Could be too little oil, incorrect oil viscosity, a bad oil filter, etc. How does the oil look, does it get dirty quickly? 5W20 Motorcraft Synthetic Blend, Motorcraft FL500S oil filter at a minimum. May take between 5-6 quarts of fresh oil at change time.

NTrain2K: Engine specs as released don't tell the whole story. This is what comes of comparing specs at the superficial level, such as what I attached. If you want dropin results, you have to really narrow your search. Anyway, you should also consider having the suspension upgraded while the engine is being replaced. Shocks/struts & mounts, control arms, sway bar end links, sway bar bushings (if available), and wheel bearings. If reusing the radiator/fan assembly/condensor, those are also candidates for replacement, just because. Will make it easier to do it up front. Flush all fluids: coolant, transmission, brake etc. Start clean. Clean up and paint the engine bay and subframe, you can make the ground attachment points paint free later. Good time to check the underbody for rust and apply rust preventative. 3M sprayon product should be good enough.

And that's where drivetrain losses become very apparent.

2011-2014 Edge should be perfect!

I would not go by car-part.com necessarily. Perhaps the bare block will interchange, but not necessarily the rotating assemblies, for example. Maybe Ford Customer Service can help, if you get a hold of a knowledgeable person. 2014_Edge_Tech_Specs.pdf 2013-ford-flex-tech specs.pdf 2011-ford-edge-tech specs.pdf 2012-ford-edge-tech specs.pdf

BTW under cruise conditions, going uphill, if you feel shudder/surge, it could be the PTU (if AWD). Just putting it out there, there's a TSB on that for the Taurus, and, I think, the Edge. http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/TSb/DownloadPdf?id=169301 I don't believe this is the case here, though.

Getting one for yourself directly from the US or Canada will not be cheap either, as you will pay at the least high customs taxes, plus extra charges for emissions compliance and headlight compliance if normally vehicles are RHD where you are. Same issues faced by people in Germany, Finland, etc. but I hope you can find a way!

Differences in sensors will definitely happen, and likely the camshaft, timing set, and other critical components as well.