WWWPerfA_ZN0W

could certainly be a failed item in the DAMB system this motor uses, but would be highly unusual. more likely it is a spark plug/coil/injector problem if it sounds specific to that cylinder. do you work with scan tools? although codes may not have set, you can check for misfire counts with an OBD adapter + software like Forscan Lite that runs on your smart device. you can also check for timing errors to see if there is an issue there.

Very nice. Welcome!

@Laceekay thanks for the followup. how many miles did you have on your 2008 when you initially replaced the fuel pump? did you use Ford/Motorcraft, or an aftermarket pump from say Autozone/Advance Auto?

mileage on your edge? oil change/coolant change history? the test is 30 psi at 1500 rpm once engine is at NOT. what were your conditions? but still, sounds too high. was the engine low on oil? any rattles on startup or thereafter? concerned about timing chain issues, as oil pump is chain driven.

practically never hear of hoses being replaced unless they develop a leak. you can periodically check them to see if they are starting to soften. replace at that time. belts should periodically be inspected for microcracking. that and noise would prompt me to replace them sooner rather than later. had the ones on our Edge done at 10 yrs/120K miles, mixed driving. hopefully that is a useful barometer.

Welcome! Post pics of your new (and old) rides!

oem emblems here https://parts.levittownfordparts.com/v-2020-ford-edge--sel--2-0l-l4-gas/body--exterior-trim-lift-gate for aftermarket options, ebay and amazon usually are the go-to's. otherwise have them custom-made from vendors on say etsy.com

https://parts.levittownfordparts.com/v-2014-ford-edge--sel--3-5l-v6-gas/electrical--liftgate

Bodalicious!

i as well

power points time out on my 2007. no way i can leave something to charge for any length of time.

glad you found the fix, but surprised no one responded to it in over a year and a half!

appreciate your hard work and honesty.

tc-w3. supertech/walmart brand works well, no need to pay the exorbitant prices on name brands. still no codes or pending codes, right?

Meh, it's a dry heat ...

shouldn't trust anyone on the internet, really, lol. we are just brainstorming here since we do not have access to the actual vehicle to run any diagnostics. a lot of us are better at DOING things than explaining to others HOW to do it. unfortunately, Ford took over the Schrader valve on the fuel rail, so it is more difficult to check if fuel pressure is holding after shutoff. you can always pull a spark plug after a failed cranking session to see if the plugs have fuel on them. if the engine cranks, it is not the PATS system. plain and simple. assuming the crank speed is normal - 150-250 rpm - and there is fuel getting to the cylinders, we are possibly looking at a failing sensor of some sort where it is too early to set a code. crank sensor would be my first guess, as i believed i said earlier also.

is the brake fluid you are using LV compatible? i think 2014 uses LV brake fluid iirc. has the potential to affect ABS performance. the replacement technique does sound intriguing, as i have not seen anyone else do it or mention it

torque pro? probably can find stuff around the net and on YT as to how to use it. download it from the Google Play store, Android only. there is an extensive list of custom PIDs developed for the SHO over on ecoboostperformanceforum.com, but i haven't run across any for the edge/mkx/nautilus.

torque pro has been more versatile for ecoboosts than forscan, but that won't help with module programming

I use Osram Night Breaker Unlimited halogens, but you can check bulbfacts.com for alternatives that will work. You can retrofit an H9 into the H11 housing - lows and fogs - but not sure what the longterm consequences are for the headlight assembly (plastic). owner experiences with this conversion https://www.4runners.com/threads/h9-in-h11-headlight-sockets.8593/ If you use LEDs, they MUST have adjustable bases to align them perfectly in the housing. Best way is to retrofit the housing for HID projectors. HIDs still offer the best lighting pattern/distance, though LEDs are getting closer.

wont need it to change turbo. will need it if you need to check any P codes/powertrain codes.

i think the 2.0 has a single fan, not dual, but could be wrong. if it has a dual fan setup like the 3.5, then very likely need a fan assembly. it is probable that the control module has failed in this case, since the fan does work, just not as expected. have seen other instances where a relay has been at fault on the 2.0. https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/3Z4AAOSwIHdgdvzs/s-l1600.jpg

Don't feel bad. We look at the final product, a result of years, if not decades of experience, doing the same thing over and over again. You are a sculptor in your own right.

you will likely not get the PC/ED section of the manual, just the actual workshop manual, and possibly the wiring diagrams. it will be a single PDF file, but organized.

jeez about the gap of the sport spark plug!