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I would pull codes first from the PCM. Could be an EVAP system issue with the fuel smell. If you tend to go overfill (go past the first shutoff) it can flood the canister and take a while to get rid of. A stuck purge valve could also do that, but should not be excessive. Could be leaky injector(s). A burning gas smell would indicate a possible flooding of the catalytic converters. Does the coolant have "floaters", does it look shiny, like it has an oily sheen? (Shine a light on it from the top, and from the side.) Those are warning signs that a possible leak in the system has developed and that oil may be mixing with the coolant. If the radiator has a flaw, then trans fluid can also get into the coolant, so check the engine oil AND trans fluid also.

Welcome to the community, Ginger_10, how about some pics of your ride(s) and mods?

Lets not get into that whole discussion LOL! I know for a fact that US car mfrs have been making parts for their cars in Canada for a LONG time. So this is a natural progression

Gorgeous!

Finally! Your Edge gets the showtime it deserves

You can have mac drive it for a day and the gas will be all gone. OR you can use the funnel that came with your Edge, use it to keep the fuel filler pipe open, and insert in a smaller tube, connected to a siphoning device, into a certified gas can. What would you do with it though??? OR you can have a mechanic siphon it out for you. Patent using barium salts: http://www.freepatentsonline.com/6200358.html Try an upper cylinder lubricant from Lucas Oil (easily available anywhere), might neutralize the sulfur. ATCO advertises a Vanguard additive that claims to neutralize sulfur. This statement applies to diesel fuel, but the concept should be the same for gasoline "A series of innovations of the diesel engine followed, which made it possible to use heavy fuel oil in mediumspeed trunk piston engines, pioneered by the MV The Princess of Vancouver. In the mid-1950s, high alkalinity cylinder lubricants became available to neutralize the acids generated by the combustion of high sulphur residual fuels, and wear rates became comparable to those found when using distillate diesel fuel."

Do you have manual or electronic climate control? Could be the control unit. Also, the blend door may need recalibration. If the airflow is also less on the driverside, sometimes the foam in the ducts comes off and blocks airflow.

pull the fuse on the radio/cd/head unit and see.

Welcome to the community, and best of luck with the new ride! Do post some pics of your ride(s) for us to ogle

That would be good. Hopefully folks have kept their receipts.

No inspections needed for ESP (or Ford Protect) coverage, 4 sure.

Sound sculpting is bread and butter for a lot of companies, just gotta keep asking till you find ones willing to work with you on your application. For example, MRT has a very specific sound I think they like to go for, and they get it across engine types. Plus, if you put in cutouts, take mufflers out of the equation, you can definitely gain more than 2 hp but that is not an everyday solution.

As I thought ... amazing!

That is a blocked AC evaporator drain, and likely a whole lot of water too. Can kill the blower motor. I would peel back the carpet on the driver side near the gas pedal to expose the joint in the drain. Have a small bucket or pan handy, and lay down some rags so nothing gets on the carpet. PInch off the upper tube with a clip of some sort, then disconnect from the joint. Blow compressed air (air duster used for computers might work here) into the lower tube so the drain is clear. Then aim the upper hose into the bucket/pan and release the clip. That should do the trick of draining it. Ideally you will also use foaming coil cleaner to clean out the evaporator through the upper part of the drain hose. There are products that come with a tube you can snake up the upper tube to clean the evaporator.

The F150 has had the "most" amount of trouble with the blowby/PCV crud, but then it also has a huge user base and people pushing it to the limits. Typically less of an issue on the Taurus SHO and other engines. I wouldn't be surprised though if the first generation 2.0 EB has a lot of issues with this also. It is a DIRTY engine. And the problem is not only the sludge on the intake valves, but buildup in the intercooler, which can be ingested under the right conditions, leading to misfires etc or even hydrolock. Yup, it can get that bad, but hydrolock from the sludge is very rare, just to be clear.

Hitting all the "sore" spots on the Edge! How many miles do you have on it, and had the transmission fluid/power steering fluid ever been changed before this? Coolant flushed? Radiator replacement is somewhat unusual, but it can happen, as it also is used to cool the transmission fluid. The rest are "normal" maintenance items, it sucks, but there it is. If you can post your invoices, we can look them over to see if there is anything that stands out. Having the servicing done by a reputable non-dealer shop can save you a bunch of money.

Levittown Ford SuperCenter would be my first stop, as they sponsor this forum. Post your requirements in this thread: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/10937-employee-pricing-on-all-parts-accessories/ EBay is a good source, as are junkyards like LKQ and more. There are aggregator websites that will get you pricing from multiple sources for used parts, can't think of the one I heard of, offhand

Where did you buy the coils and PCM from? Was the PCM remanufactured, or simply used? I have Airtex coils on mine, no problems for over a year. The OEM coils are definitely beefier, and I think better construction based on resistance readings. The OEM coils can be had as a kit from online dealerships for much better pricing than individual coils.

Glad you are ok, Chipster, and agree that the body shop should do justice! If not, complain to Ford until they get it right

Could you post the pics here in this thread instead. I don't know about you, but accessing the pics through the profile is a major PITA. Either way, glad to have 'em up What have you moved on to?

Welcome and congrats, haedgy! How about some interior exterior pics That color combo sounds amazing!

Fenderwell mounting in the area of the airbox is a great spot for the Explorer, space is tighter on the Edge, but probably still best for the can to be on that side. Some cans will have the option of a drain attachment, or if you are intrepid enough, you can mod it yourself.

If you Select Your Area and Check Dist. Inventory in the search box in the left column of the resulting page, it will show you distributors in the area that carry that product.

The joint in the tube is probably in the same location, lined up against the floor console next to the gas pedal. Peel back carpet in that area to view.

I believe the SE trim level on the 2011 comes with a 17" wheel, so I would get a wheel/tire that matches those specs. The wheels you are looking at are probably fine, assuming they are either OEM or were carefully selected by the owner to match. Tires you have a bit of leeway in size, but not too much, as incorrect tire height can affect speed readouts.