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DA = -2200? 93 pump gas? Did LME say anything about winter time fuel precautions?

I use this one myself https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000Y190WE/ when using a garden hose. The MTM Hydro used to be a recommended equivalent for those with a power washer available. Chemical Guys do have their "scents" down pat

I am sure mac will weigh in soon, but when I did mine, I noticed mainly that fuel trims weren't oscillating so much anymore, and the canister valve does not open as much either (side effect?). A little better mpg MAYBE.

The 2.0 EB engines are hard on oil, so keep on top of that. Also, don't believe the 150K or whatever they state for initial trans fluid change. Trans fluids have detergents (just like engine oils) to keep the transmission parts clean, and they do get used up, more often in extreme climates or severe duty conditions. It's a pain to do the 6F35 fluid, but well worth it to change it out every 60K miles. If the transmission does not have a replaceable filter, do not FLUSH. A fluid exchange (or drain & fill) is ok.

Welcome to the community, Titan, and congrats on the Sport! Please do post a few pics of your ride

You have to pretty much take off the timing chains just to do the phasers, so the bill shouldn't be more than the 2200 + additional parts. 4200 is WAY too much. I think 2500 would be a competitive dealer price, especially if they already have it all apart. If not you should consider taking to an independent mechanic, since you are no longer under warranty, and have them do the work (or at least get an estimate). Usually it is the solenoids that go bad, then the phasers, then the timing chain/water pump combo. If you do elect to get all this done, be sure to have the water pump changed out also, inexpensive part, but can lead to complete engine failure.

More than likely, based on the reports from this Gen, it is indicating a problem with at least one of the wheel speed sensors (attached to the wheel hub) and the Transmission Range sensor. Hopefully it is just a wheel speed sensor and not the tone ring involved in the P1501 code.

A lot of good info there!

Good info, sir! Did it sound like the hissing noise came from the brake pedal area? That's how some people describe it.

Yeah, that's a vote of NO CONFIDENCE alright ...

Never had to deal with clock springs either, thankfully!

Link for the retrofit thread http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/21481-cmillz1331-2007-2010-hid-projector-retrofit/

I agree the oil change intervals should be longer. But a truthful answer would be provided by a UOA, not by a manual. Once you have verified that the oil looks good after a certain mileage (5K or 7.5K or 10K or by engine hrs), then you can continue with that OCI, periodically reaffirming that the performance continues. That'd be my approach. 3K unless you do all stopngo driving is probably too short an interval.

And this has been my point of contention all along. Even though technically the brakes haven't failed, the power assist has. And guess what, pretty much all of the car driving universe is now acquainted only with the notion of "power brakes". They don't know any better when the assist fails, and that leads to an avoidable accident. More and more disabled/partially disabled people are driving vehicles around, and I have doubts they would be able to use the manual brakes anyway.

Sucks that they won't help ... Good luck with the new car, put up some pics

Have the belts been replaced? That's another possible source of vibration. The engine will run a bit rougher when AC is demanded, but should not be so much as to be intrusive. Has the compressor been checked, does it hold the refrigerant, and is refrigerant level correct? Replacing the remaining mounts (engine/trans) might also be the way to go.

Glad you are ok and stayed in control.

Wow, that SUCKS! I would be looping Ford in immediately on this, not acceptable! They should give you a price break on the new Edge. AM glad tho that you kept it in the family

Coolant and refrigerant levels ok? Maybe the temp sensors are having an issue, may be the HVAC control module itself. What are the temp readings as displayed to you when you first start the car? Does it quickly match with ambient?

Definitely some user intervention required ... but you can track engine hours between fuel ups and between oil changes with the 2 trip meters available. I don't think there is a display for overall engine hours since it was first operational, but maybe it could be viewed in engineering mode?

I think the display is called a Trip Timer. So you can keep track of current trip on Trip 1 and cumulative on Trip 2. Follow Trip 2 timer to the interval you want, or track it for that trip on Trip 1 timer.

Should be under Trip 2 possibly. Macbwt has it on his 2011s.

May have to run the reset procedure on the module itself then. Forscan might be able to do it, not sure.

Now in stock at Walmart https://www.walmart.com/ip/Quaker-State-Ultimate-Durability-0W20-Motor-Oil-5-qt/36250522 Plus there is a rebate from QS (up to 3 jugs) http://www.quakerstate.com/en_us/promotions/do-it-yourself-oil-change/promotion-2.html

Have you tried pulling the fuse for a few minutes? The fuse should be listed in the owners manual under FUSES and/or ROADSIDE EMERGENCIES.