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No delay on mine, so I'd say no, not the norm.

Perfectly normal. The owners manual tells you exactly what the system needs to retrain. The tool and/or tire store are fallbacks in case.

Bigger job than it sounds. If you do this, you are basically doing what it takes to do a spark plug/PCV valve change (highly recommended) + fuel system depressurization + pulling off fuel rail/injectors. I would replace all 6, because if 1 is gone, and that too on the cooler bank, the rest will follow in short order. But the work to get to them is not that bad, so you can defer if you really want to. NOTE: 2007 Edge PCV valves are electrically heated, so if you are wondering why the intake manifold isn't coming off easily, there is an electrical plug attached to the underside of the intake (next to the PCV valve) that you can only get to by first disconnecting everything topside from the intake and then lifting it up/tilting it. O Rings come with the new injectors, so no worries there. A dab of the same engine oil you put in the crankcase is fine for the O Rings. You can reuse the O Rings on the old injectors that you are not replacing, just clean them up first before oiling. Very mild torque on the intake manifold bolts. About 5 lb ft / 62 lb in. Def don't want to crack that plastic!

The fix is to replace the halfshaft bearing bracket. TSB 15-0156 2.0L GTDI / 2.3L GTDI – FRONT WHEEL DRIVE – VIBRATION AND/OR GRINDING/BANGING/CLICKING NOISE Publication Date: October 20, 2015 FORD: 2012-2014 Edge, 2013-2015 Taurus, 2012-2016 Explorer LINCOLN: 2013-2015 MKT ISSUE: Some 2012-2014 Edge, 2013-2015 MKT, 2013-2015 Taurus and 2012-2016 Explorer vehicles equipped with 2.0L or 2.3L Gasoline Turbocharged Direct Injection (GTDI) and front wheel drive may exhibit a vibration, grinding, banging or clicking noise from the driveline while moving. ACTION: Follow the Service Procedure steps to correct the condition. SERVICE PROCEDURE If equipped remove the underbody shield. Refer to Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 205-04. Inspect the right hand side halfshaft bearing bracket. Is it cracked or broken? Yes – proceed to Step 3. No – this article does not apply. Refer to WSM, Section 100-04 for normal diagnostics. If equipped remove the two (2) side shield screws and remove the shield located in the passenger fender splash shield area. If equipped remove the two (2) heated oxygen sensor wiring retainers on the halfshaft bearing nuts. Remove and discard the two (2) halfshaft retaining nuts. Remove and discard the two (2) right hand halfshaft bearing bracket bolts and remove the bracket. Install two (2) new halfshaft bearing studs into the new bracket. Torque: 15 Nm (11 lb-ft) Install the new right hand halfshaft bearing bracket and bolts. Torque: 48 Nm (35 lb-ft) Install the two (2) new halfshaft retaining nuts. Torque: 25 Nm (18 lb-ft). Refer to WSM, Section 205-04 If equipped reverse Steps 1 through 4 to install the shields. PART NUMBER PART NAME FB5Z-3K305-B Halfshaft Bearing Bracket – Right W500635-S439 Bolt (3 Req) W706931-S439 Stud (1 Pkg Req) W701731-S439 Nut (1 Pkg Req) OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME 150156A Replace The Halfshaft Bearing Bracket (Do Not Use With Any Other Labor Operations) 0.6 Hr. WARRANTY STATUS Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage. Warranty/ESP coverage limits/policies/prior approvals are not altered by a TSB. Warranty/ESP coverage limits are determined by the identified causal part and verified using the OASIS part coverage tool. DEALER CODING BASIC PART NO. CONDITION CODE 3K305 01 TSB 15-0156_2.0L GTDI-2.3L GTDI - FWD - Vibration andor Grinding-Banging-Clicking Noise Edge Taurus Explorer MKT.pdf

True, that would be a discussion for engine oil and catch cans

Sounds like a driveshaft and/or RDU and/or PTU issue. Where was the grinding sound coming from? That would be PTU/RDU. Vibration might be the driveshaft, but hard to tell with the sounds in the mix.

Any electronic gremlins with your XSport? Then definitely look into the battery's condition. Many of these codes are communications related and do not affect actual function. I would reset them, see if they come back. If they come back, perform a KAM reset and see if they come back. If they come back, verify the battery operating condition & replace if needed.

The world we live in today.

you can listen for yourself on their YT channel, I have not heard it first hand. i think it sounds a bit raspy in a racecar-y way, which is to say good IMHO https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cTqCOrqIBGA

The MRT sound is pretty distinctive. I have heard similar tones from the Focus XX that they have modified. No mistaking it.

Looks really nice!

The primarily problem is definitely with the PCV system (though Ford has taken steps to try & address) and buildup on the back of the intake valves. Sometimes though, this crud will accumulate in the intercooler and get sucked into the intake, but that's a story for another day. Fuel injectors on these engines, sadly, are not as reliable as they have been on the NA engines. Just the nature of how hard they work in the DI environment. Many reports of one or more getting stuck and flooding the cats with fuel (yes, stuck OPEN). So if you smell gas, DO NOT drive any more than you have to. Get towed to the dealership/service shop. Otherwise you could be looking at having to replace your exhaust system on top of the injectors themselves. If one injector goes, all should be replaced at the same time, preferably, or you will go through the experience again ... and again ... Be aware of your warranty coverages.

Wow, what a great deal! Do post some pics, and enjoy!!!

Fortunately for us with NA Edges, fuel injectors are not that difficult to replace as a DIY item. But for Ecoboost engines ... much more time consuming and involved. So if you have an EB Edge especially, keeping the fuel injectors clean with good fuel is a good decision for the long term.

Since the Edge you are looking at is FWD, that takes away AWD related headaches Are the miles/year consistent, and have they been primarily highway miles? There's a bunch of maintenance to have been done by 200K miles. Plus all the components that are "replace as needed". You can get an idea here: http://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/catalog/owner_guides/07frdmg1e.pdf Look at all the TSBs issued for this generation 2007-10 on this site: http://www.revbase.com/bbbmotor Using the VIN go to this site and see if there are outstanding recalls (like fuel tank and airbags for example) https://owner.ford.com/tools/account/maintenance/recalls.html All comes down to price & time. And don't expect the water pump change to be easy. It is driven by the timing chains and you have to take the timing set off to take the water pump off. That is probably the hardest external part of the engine to get at. The transmission probably worries me more than the engine. It does require regular fluid servicing to stay healthy over a long period of time, TSS/OSS sensors have been a common problem. Very doable work, if problems don't go deeper than that. In a few cases, burnt clutch packs and faulty torque converter have happened. When you test drive, make sure you drive it long enough to get the trans fluid good and hot. Wheel bearings also go bad on this Gen of Edge. The rear ones can be a PITA to replace. Personally, I'd at a minimum get all the fluids tested at Blackstone Labs (or similar testing company) to make sure they look OK. If they check out, along with inspection by a trusted mechanic, you may have a good buy.

Hmmm. I am not 100℅ on this, but this is probably standard shift interlock functionality?

Welcome to the forum, Michael! Your Edge looks like it has the need for speed, so go feed it some mph's

Welcome to the community, RedEdge, nice lookin' ride

Excellent progress, Tacyon! Keep up the good work and +ve attitude. And post the mandatory pics of the new ride

Time will tell. The fix has not been out that long.

The other dealership is BS'ing you, though it is easier to have the resolution at the same dealership, the warranty is not the issue.

It's only a minor cost change towards the end, so you can wait if you want to. Definitely get it BEFORE the original warranty expires (3/36, time OR mileage, not just time) and you don't have to have it inspected IIRC.

Welcome, sorry to hear about the issue. How many miles? AWD or FWD? Not quite understanding the brake sensor Q though. Is there a reason you think that is the issue. Have you tried shifting out of Park without starting the car (foot on brake pedal, ignition to ON but not RUN, etc), after it has been sitting a while, or after shutoff? Is this happening on a hill or on flat ground as well? Do you engage the parking brake every time you park? The parking pawl can get worn over time and lead to notchiness. A "remedy" is to shift to N first with foot on the brake, start the car, then shift to whatever gear you need, then release the parking brake. Has the trans fluid ever been replaced? Have you checked its' condition? Do not have these transmissions flushed, only "fluid exchanged". Since the screen is not serviceable without cracking open the transmission case, best to keep the fluid fresh.

Did you pick top tier stations or did you mix it up?

Congrats on the new ride. Yes, 5x108 is the bolt pattern. Make sure the offset works with the Edge.