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https://parts.levittownfordparts.com/oem-parts/ford-inter-cooler-f2gz6k775a sadly seems to be the same one as on the 2.0! Make Body & Trim Engine & Transmission 2020 Ford Edge SE, SEL, ST, ST-Line, Titanium 2.0L L4 - Gas, 2.7L V6 - Gas 2020 Lincoln Nautilus Base, Black Label, Reserve, Select 2.0L L4 - Gas, 2.7L V6 - Gas 2019 Ford Edge SE, SEL, ST, Titanium 2.0L L4 - Gas, 2.7L V6 - Gas 2019 Lincoln Nautilus Base, Black Label, Reserve, Select 2.0L L4 - Gas, 2.7L V6 - Gas 2018 Ford Edge SE, SEL, Sport, Titanium 2.0L L4 - Gas, 2.7L V6 - Gas 2018 Lincoln MKX Black Label, Premiere, Reserve, Select 2.7L V6 - Gas 2017 Ford Edge SE, SEL, Sport, Titanium 2.0L L4 - Gas, 2.7L V6 - Gas 2017 Lincoln MKX Black Label, Premiere, Reserve, Select 2.7L V6 - Gas 2016 Ford Edge SE, SEL, Sport, Titanium 2.0L L4 - Gas, 2.7L V6 - Gas 2016 Lincoln MKX Black Label, Premiere, Reserve, Select 2.7L V6 - Gas 2015 Ford Edge SE, SEL, Sport, Titanium 2.0L L4 - Gas, 2.7L V6 - Gas

parts stores will still "PASS" it tho, lol. there are a lot of warnings that pop up when attempting to start the vehicle. may be code related or entirely normal, check the owner's manual. you can definitely pull codes and check to get a better idea.

good troubleshooting! battery and starter are good places to start, especially starter, which has been known to fail in high temp situations. do you hear the fuel pump prime when turning the ignition to ON? should not affect the starter, just curious.

Welcome and congrats!

may just need a PCM calibration update https://drive.google.com/file/d/18rPm9EX1weiU5A_zBZXc1jpJd3-vV2MX/view?usp=sharing

Extremely rare IME for the cam sensors to fail, but have seen it happen ONCE. There is a TSB on the phasers for early gen 1 vehicles, but not for 2010. You should have the later P/N phasers in there already. Not on the Edge, but if the battery was leaking acid at any point, it is a reasonable thing to inspect the wiring around/below the battery tray. Oddball things can pop codes.

yes, one on each bank. confusingly, ford also refers to the timing phasers as actuators lol. the electronic sensors are underneath the intake tubing, a little work to get to them, but not bad.

bulbfacts.com ... oems are halogens, i assume?

how much did you drive the vehicle in this time period? wonder if the pcm was relearning/just finished & set the code.

did you use a motorcraft booster? aftermarket boosters can result in a lot of problems. did you tightly reconnect the hose from the intake manifold to the booster? you can check codes yourself with an obd II adapter and forscan lite. it is possible that the throttle body is going bad, but you can only retrieve the code after the engine is shutoff and before it is restarted successfully. the code is a temporary type.

well, you replaced the battery. that likely caused the pcm to reset and relearn your driving style. new maf sensor could definitely have helped as well, but it would have to be pretty far gone to make that much of a difference. fingers crossed for continued improvement. EDIT: another stray thought that occurred to me is that you should keep an eye on fuses 21 (EVAP canister vent control solenoid, Powertrain Control Module (PCM)) and 32 (Brake Pedal Position (BPP) switch, Mass Air Flow/Intake Air Temperature, (MAF/IAT) sensor, EVAP canister purge valve, VCT solenoids, Heated oxygen sensors) in the underhood fuse box. i seem to remember one or two cases where replacing those actually made a difference. very rarely see fuses and relays go bad on this platform tho.

yeah definite pcv issue. haven't seen a mention on Ford bulletins. you MAY need to install a catchcan if moving up to a better oil does not resolve the situation. there were some 2011-2013 MY edges that needed a revised valve cover for oil in the intake, but not a peep on gen 2+.

appreciate it but the kudos go to @macbwt ? glad you are up n running now, putting up stiff competition for MACT on time!

did you unlock all locks, disconnect the battery, then try? might be worth a shot.

sounds like a plan. flashing CEL has only one meaning: misfire. steady CEL means there are other major problems in the works. So at least you have made progress! how does the throttle body look? sorry to hear about your situation, hope things look up for you very soon.

nothing is for sure over the internet, lol. but check for codes first. there may not be any or there may be a helpful P048X ... whether it is the module or the fan motor (brushes), it is almost certain the fan assembly, especially on a gen 1.5. the automatic climate control seems to tax them significantly more than on gen 1 units. if you want, check the connections at the fan module, sometimes they get corroded/dirty, and could use a good cleaning/greasing. you will need the nontow version of the assembly, preferably from Motorcraft if you pay to have the job done.

Nothing wrong with WalMart / SuperTech oil. It is all re-labeled anyway, whether SuperTech, Kirkland, or Amazon, to name a few. But if you want brand name, you certainly have your pick of the litter. Always check to see if rebates/promotions apply by going to the mfr websites.

personally, first and foremost, step up viscosity to 5W30. then full synthetic. you would be fine even with Supertech (WalMart) oil as it is made by Warren Distributing. SP rated oil is much sturdier base stock than SN rated oil, so that is what I would use, despite the Ca/Mg ratios being moved about (to benefit boosted engines). MACT's testing on SN rated oils and some gear lubes: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1gEMTa3YOBIYBTYiaEhQLfooPohN_l645z1DaWRuFzC0/

Wow, first case on the gen 2 3.5 I have heard of problems like this, and at such an early mileage. But it HAS been 5+ years, and with only 35K miles on it, I would say it is WAY under-run. The only reported problem has been a throttle body issue in the 2015MY. Any codes at this time? Which cylinder is setting the misfire (you can check with Forscan Lite PIDs or Mode 6)? What was the plug gap on the old plug(s)? Were they fouled at all or did they have the normal light coating on them? Were the threads oilfree? Sounds like a possible PCV issue, but if the engine was run under special operating conditions as the mileage would indicate, I would switch to a full synthetic SP rated oil, maybe even step up to 5W30, to lower volatility and give the engine a more forgiving environment.

if it does not unlatch completely, you need a new latch.

does it at least unlatch completely? the manual lift struts are the first to go, followed far behind by the power motor and the latch. not sure if the power strut has ever failed, but it is also a relative rarity. usually if it is not the manual struts, an initialization helps. also needs to have a strong battery, if the battery is weak, all kinds of symptoms will manifest.

the harness may be the final solution. but first, i assume you have the 8" screen? if so, make sure Sync2 is updated to the latest revision, 3.10. that fixed a lot of ambient lighting issues that were programming related. Register at owner.ford.com for Sync support and downloads.

the EGR cooler issue is on 2019+ 2.0L engines https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2020/MC-10177867-0001.pdf might want to watch out for this on a Sport https://drive.google.com/file/d/1zcNjezDAfMkX_jzC9PJC1niHgpLhmTEA/view?usp=sharing even tho MY and obd code are not included in the tsb Issue: Some 2016-2017 Edge/MKX, 2017 Continental, and 2017 Fusion/MKZ vehicles equipped with a 2.7L or 3.0L gasoline turbocharged direct injection (GTDI) engine and built on 1-Apr-2016 and through 1-Jan-2017 may exhibit white or blue smoke from the exhaust, rough idle in neutral or park at normal operating temperature or after a hot restart. The vehicle may also exhibit an illuminated malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) with diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, P0305, P0306 and/or P0316, P0524 and/or P06DD with excessive oil consumption. Oil consumption may be 1 Liter (1 quart) in less than 4,800 km (3,000 miles). yes, PCV can cause smoke issues, and performance issues (it leans out the A/F mix). and it has on the 3.5 EB transverse setup. Ford's solution usually includes an updated valve cover. https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,496.msg78981.html#msg78981

scan for codes - may be an issue with a wheel speed sensor or tone ring. could be a seized caliper also, common if the slide pins are not regularly serviced. you can use an infrared thermometer to check if any of the rotors are hotter than the others, IF the car is driveable.